End grain chopping board - best oil to use and where to buy?

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Mineral oil is a generic term to a wide range of distillates, mixtures of aliphatic and aromatic compounds. It’s compisition and purity is varied. There is no specific composition for ‘mineral oil’
 
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Used Liberon finishing oil on a few boards with no ill effect.

Always stayed away from cooking oils as they can go rancid.

Main thing is when cleaning the boards not to get them soaking wet, damp cloth and antibac should suffice.

End grain chopping board will soak up a lot oil, you may need to coat it several times.
 
Soldato
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The beeswax/mineral oil mix is working great. Water beads up on the surface when you put washed veg on there to chop and it makes it really easy to wipe down with a cloth after. I haven't noticed any taste transferring to the food, but I don't think the wax has any taste to it anyway.

Regarding tung oil, I use that a lot for some of my woodwork projects, like handgun grips and knife scales. Great stuff, but I haven't seen it used for end grain chopping boards as I think it would stop the fibres from 'healing' and end up with the board wearing faster. I used to use Tung based Danish oil for kitchen worktops, but wasn't keen on the sheen or the yellowing effect on oak. I always use Osmo oil now and find its much more durable and stain/water resistant.
 
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Spent about 20 minutes looking for this thread!

I've just picked up a few lengths of 2x2 oak to make an end grain chopping board and was thinking about how to finish it.

@Mark A Are you still happy with your mineral oil/beeswax combination?


Also need to work out whether my router is capable of cutting some handles into the oak! This could be one of those projects where i spend a fortune to end up with a chopping board thats cost more and looks worse than one of the ones from your ebay seller :p
 
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Yes! I was going to update the thread actually as it's been over a year now. The beeswax and mineral oil is amazing stuff. A tiny bit on a cloth goes a long way and lasts ages. When you put washed veg on the board to chop, the water beads up and doesn't soak in at all. For cleaning I just run a tap over it and then dry straight away and its still completely flat with no warping, so the oil+wax is definitely keeping any moisture out of the board.

I didn't have to re-oil it all year, just wiping a thin layer of wax/oil paste on the board after a few uses seems to keep the board fully sealed. I re-oiled it for the first time a few days ago after wiping over it with half a lemon and course sea salt to deep clean it and get rid of all the wax and the board wasn't very thirsty at all.

It works out to be very cheap when you consider how little it uses. If you're feeling lazy then the pre-mixed waxes will probably work out OK value considering how little you use.

I'm sure your router will handle it, just take shallow passes and it'll be fine.
 
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I am indeed lazy and will be buying something :p

One other thing, i highly recommend the little rubber feet. You don't actually need a handle routing in with the feet as you can grip underneath it to lift it up. Helps raise the board off the worktop to allow air to get under it and stops it moving around in use as well.
 
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For people using "mineral oil" please make sure it is white mineral oil and should have absolutely no colour with the appearance of water. Conventional mineral oil is not considered safe for contact with food due to the relatively high aromatics content. White mineral oils have the aromatics essentially fully removed. Technical grade white oils are approved for incidental contact with food in packaging materials and lubricants so would be acceptable, medicinal grade white oils are approved for direct contact with food and would be preferable. Shocked to see the extent of the mark up these £8 a litre for less than £1 of oil.
 
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