*** OFFICIAL HOME NETWORKING FAQ ***

Soldato
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There seems to be a whole host of threads being made recently regarding home networking, from the difference between cables, to which routers, switches and access points to use to home working set-ups.

My aim is to cover off as much as possible in one master thread and to hopefully answer some of the most repeating questions and provide a home for questions to be answered.

As a friendly reminder, please ensure that no competitor links or hinting is engaged in within the thread.

What does a home network usual consist of?
Every home network relies on a router, this will usually be supplied by your Internet Service Provider (ISP) and is usually multiple devices combined into one.

Your average router from an ISP will consist of the Router, Wireless Access Point and Network Switch all in one, most times it will also perform the function of a Modem too (more about that later).

For the average user this router will be absolutely fine, however, the more you poke around and wish to develop your network, the more this will hold you back.

WAN Connection Types (Your gateway to the internet)
In the UK we have five primary types of WAN Connection, ADSL, VDSL, FTTP, 3G/4G/5G and Cable.

ADSL - This is what most of the UK are supplied with as a bear minimum, this technology is quite old and is usually provided using the Openreach Copper Telephone line to your property. It has a rough max of 24Mbit/s download.

VDSL – The direct successor to ADSL is VDSL, in the UK this is primarily delivered using Fibre-to-the-Cabinet (FTTC) technologies, the clue is in the name here, from BT's Exchange a fibre cable is ran to your local green cabinet, and the copper telephone line from here is ran to your home. This can offer much greater speeds of 80Mbit/s download.

G.Fast - This uses similar technology to VDSL but it's boosted. If your local cabinet has a G.Fast Pod attached to the side and you live within 300m of the cabinet, then you can sign up for G.Fast from BT, Sky, TalkTalk, EE, and Zen. Your line in the local cabinet has the frequency power boosted in the pod which sends a higher powered signal down the remaining copper line to your house which will offer speeds between 100Mbps and 300Mbps. A new master socket faceplate is required in your premises that Openreach will fit.

FTTP – A bit of a new kid on the block, Fibre-to-the-Property is much like FTTC, only the fibre now comes all the way to the property, this is more common in new build properties however companies such as CityFibre are now rolling this out to towns and cities alongside smaller organisations such as B4RN deploying in more rural areas.

3G/4G & 5G – At the time of writing, the installation of 5G technologies is well underway, much like the SIM card in your mobile phone, a specialist router is procured and a SIM card inserted, this then connects to the local mast and you're provided with internet. The throughput massively depends on a huge amount of factors.

Cable – Championed by Virgin Media, this uses coaxial cable ran to your home from the local cabinet to provide you with an internet connection, often the same cable delivers a TV signal to your property, it's speed in the domestic area is comparable to FTTP.


Sadly however, depending on where you live you have different options available to you, an easy way to check this is using Sam Knows broadband checker (https://availability.samknows.com/broadband/broadband_checker). Put in your postcode and it will show what is available to you, however, this isn't always the most accurate so make sure you check on the providers website.

Distributing the Network
So now you have the internet connection, there are two primary ways to use it, Wireless & Wired.

As a hard and fast rule, wired networking is always preferable, however that's not to say that wireless hasn't come on massively in the past few years. Badass has a very old thread on Wi-Fi which still has some good points still in it and is worth a read HERE.

Installing Network Cabling

Installing network cabling is the most reliable way to distribute the network around your home, however this includes it's own challenges, such as how to route the cables, which cable to install, where to run them to and from and how they all connect up.

However, it is a mammoth subject in itself and therefore I have created a dedicated post which you can find here.

What about powerline adaptors?

Powerline adaptors are an 'alternative' to installing network cabling, it plugs in to a standard electrical outlet and uses the electrical cabling to carry the network signal.

Some powerline adaptors offer Wi-Fi boosting and power pass-through however these are a far from ideal solution, they simply work for some people or don't for others. They potentially offer a less stable connection than a wireless connection.

The reason they work for some and not for others is because each homes electrical wiring is different, if your sockets are on different circuits this will introduce a lot of noise and signal loss, furthermore the grade/quality of electrical cabling and even the current demand on that circuit are other factors that can affect the quality of the signal.

I would strongly recommend an alternative solution is pursued, especially if you plan to game.


Wireless Networking

Wi-Fi (802.11) has taken off massively in the past few years, this is because it is incredibly user friendly, there are no wires. These days even gaming motherboards ship with Wi-Fi 6 capabilities.

Wireless Networking is a huge subject in itself, it never used to be stable enough for gaming however with recent developments the latency experienced whilst using wireless has become hugely more manageable, however, this is reliant on having a good wireless network.

The average household uses the wireless signal emitted by their home ISP provided router, dependant on its location this can have a massive impact on the experience provided.

If you experience issues with your wireless signal I would recommend ensuring it has as much of a clear site as possible, this means not burying it behind boxes/walls and the sorts.

If you live in an older property, you are likely to encounter more issues with signal coverage and therefore I would recommend you look into the installation of a dedicated or multiple access points.

Please see the network cabling and hardware recommendation post for further info.


I have an old router, can I use this as a Wireless Access Point?

It's possible, depending on the model of router you can turn it into a simple wireless access point, this is going to be massively dependant on the router however, it is also prudent to add that it may not provide the most optimal coverage or be the best solution.


I have network cabling already in my home?

Some newer properties have network cabling installed by the building developer, however, it is important to understand a multitude of different possibilities.

Firstly, is this designed to distribute your network? If so, it will likely all run back to a central location, whether this be under the stairs, in a dedicated plant room or in your loft.

If you can't find it in a central location then it is possible this is a telephone distribution system, extensions to your BT Master Socket.

These are installed to allow for you to chose where to place your router, this can be especially useful if you have wireless coverage issues however often enough building developers actually use Category 5e or Category 6 network cable to install these extensions.

It is possible that you can make use of these sockets if they happen to be in ideal locations, if you're unsure take a couple of photos and post in this thread for support.


Threads Worth a Read:

CCTV: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/forums/threads/spec-me-a-cctv-system.18568132/

Ubiquiti UniFi: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/forums/threads/official-ubiquiti-discussion-thread.18726947/

Wi-Fi: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/forums/threads/baddass-guide-to-wireless-networking-and-faq.17205432/
 
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Soldato
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So you want to install some network cabling? There's a lot to consider so lets break it down....

Difference between the cable types

Network Cable, sometimes referred to as Ethernet Cabling or CAT cabling comes in a whole host of varieties, at the time of writing there are three main cables to 'consider'.

All types of network cable are a form of Twisted Pair Cables, more specifically they have a total of 4 Pairs or 8 Cores. These 8 Cores are split into pairs which are twisted around eachother.

The main types of cable I will mention are as follows;

Category 5e – Providing up-to 1G (2.5G in future) connections at a max channel length of 100M this is the lowest grade on my list, but, this is sufficient for 99% of applications, it is the cheapest, easiest to install and will provide you with suitable bandwidth for many years to come.

Category 6 – The bigger brother to Category 5e is Category 6, it has a larger conductor size, this is the actual metallic conductor in the cable, it also has a plastic divider which divides each pair from each other in-turn reducing cross-talk. In simple terms, this means it's thicker but is better at carrying Power over Ethernet (PoE) and can carry higher bandwidth applications.

Category 6A – The last cable I'll mention will offer up-to 10G bandwidth, however this cable is extremely overkill in the average home and if you are installing this throughout it is going to cause many headaches due to it's larger cable size and more difficult termination.

What do I need?

If you want to cable your home there are going to be a variety of things you're going to need.
  • Cable
    • This should be from a well known cable vendor such as Excel, Connectix or HellermannTyton, you should aim for a LSZH cable (usually purple in colour), none of these manufacturers will supply you with a Copper Clad Aluminium cable, if you see this on offer – run.
  • Modules
    • You should where possible match all components with each other from the same vendor.
  • Patch Panel
    • Coming in different varieties I would recommend a standard 24 Port Patch Panel.
  • Backbox & Faceplate
    • Most modules are “Euro” fit, you can buy faceplates from the manufacturer in plastic which will help to ensure the colour of your module matches your faceplate or you can buy decorative plates from manufacturers such as Solcomore.
  • Network Cabinet
    • I would recommend a standard 19” Network Rack, a wall mount should be suitable and I would recommend a 9U as an absolute minimum, you will mount your patch panel, switches and other hardware here.
  • Network Switch

  • Power Distribution Unit (PDU)
Okay, what's this hardware?

Your cable will be based on what cable you decide you need, the modules and patch panels will match this Category of cable. If you choose Cat 5e you need Cat5e modules and panels, Cat6 you'll need Cat6 and so on.

Your patch panel gets mounted in your network cabinet and gives you a 'female' RJ45 connector (network connector, ethernet jack), terminating to this patch panel is the correct way to do things it's also a lot easier than 'crimping' plug-ends on.

Your modules are installed into a faceplate which is mounted to your backbox, this is how you present your cable connection.

Your network cabinet provides a safe house for all of your passive and active hardware such as Network Switches and Network Video Recorders to sit in. All of your active hardware is then plugged in to a fancy rack-mount extension lead.


I have the bits, now what?

Many people will instruct electricians to install home networking, sadly many electricians will take on this task with no training and can ultimately cost you more money than you set-out to. However, electricians are very good at routing cables, if you don't feel comfortable routing the cables you should speak with a local electrician.

If you're fearful of your appointed electrician not doing things quite right, instruct them to install the cables and leave the termination to you – it's simple I promise. However, one quick tip – ask them to label EACH cable.

However, if you feel comfortable routing the cables yourself, there are a number of ways to route the cables however this does come down to where you decide for all of your cabling to emanate from.

The most common topology is as follows;

[COMING SOON]

Install your network cabinet in your loft, you will need an electrician to spur off of your lighting circuit and install a 3/5A Fused Connection Unit.

This gives you an easy route to all areas of your home, whether you wish to use cavity walls, or drop your cables externally from your soffits using conduit.

You will want to install a cable from your router position to your loft, this will allow you to do one of two things;
  • Relocate your telephone line to the loft (this will only work if you are on ADSL/FTTC) and plug your router in, in the loft.

  • Plug a network cable into the back of your router, and then uplink your switch in the loft.

How many cables should I install and where to?

If you are going through the effort of installing network cables, you should sit down and plan thoroughly.

As a general rule of thumb you should always install at least two to each location, this may be per room, per TV or so on.

However, if you're relocating your router you are going to want a dedicated Wireless Access Point, therefore install a network cable for this to a central ceiling position (hey, maybe next to your loft hatch, it'll be easy and usually centrally positioned!).

Whilst you're doing that.... what about CCTV? If you're already in your loft you can soffit mount cameras, or at least install the cables for future use.
 
Soldato
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*** As a friendly reminder please ensure that no competitor links are posted in this thread, moderator action will take place. ***

Hardware Recommendations

Active Hardware

Routers

Unless you are finding issues with your current router, or it is holding you back then you will likely be okay with keeping the ISP provided router.

If you do wish to upgrade your current router you need to ensure not to cause what is referred to as Double NAT, this is commonly caused when using an old router as a makeshift access point and is caused when you have two routers on one network.

To get the best value for money I would always recommend splitting up the tasks to dedicated devices, this means buying a router to route, and perhaps be a switch too – maximum.

For a budget conscious all in one - Honor Router 3
Provides Wi-Fi 6 (802.11AX), Guest Wi-Fi however will need a modem or where supported drop your current ISP router into Modem only mode.​

Investing in UniFi and want that sweet dashboard? - UniFi Dream Machine
Far from perfect, currently only available in 802.11ac Wave 2 flavour but if you're investing in their platform for Wi-Fi and potentially switching it's great.​

Hardcore user? Well that's simple – you'll know but I'll suggest pfSense or Untangle


Switches

There is so much to decide with when it comes to switches, ultimately you need to decide what you want from it.

You should only ever look at Gigabit or above switches, Fast Ethernet is a much slower networking standard, if you're considering a wireless access point it is always wise to consider a PoE or PoE+ switch, this sends power to supporting devices down the network cable.

If you are going to dip your feet into IOT and want to consider VLANs you are going to need a managed switch.

No Frills? - TP Link offer lifetime warranty on a wide range of their switches, you can't go wrong!

Managed but easy? - TP Link also offer managed and unmanaged switches, PoE too so really in a home environment you can't go wrong even more.

Fancy Dashboard? - UniFi, offered in non-PoE, PoE, PoE+ and even PoE++ varieties, with port density options to keep you awake at night you can't go wrong.


Access Points

I mention Wireless Access Points a lot... but like the SSD to the HDD they are very much a massive upgrade.

There is only one vendor I will suggest and that is Ubiquiti UniFi, this kit is easy to configure and rock solid.

They offer different varieties of Access Point for you to chose from based on your needs.

CCTV

CCTV is a subject in itself and thus I recommend you take a read of the ever popular CCTV thread found HERE

Passive Hardware

Network Cable

You should avoid Copper Clad Aluminium, you need solid core solid copper network cable.

Leading brands such as Excel will mean you can't go wrong, where possible avoid PVC and focus on LSZH. In the past couple of years a European directive the Construction Products Regulation was introduced whereby each cable is provided with a Euroclass rating this is based on its reaction to fire – in theory you should install a Euroclass Cca or above.

Patch Panels & Modules

Try to match with the cable vendor, whilst everything is backwards compatible, it's good practice.

I would recommend a standard 24 Port Patch Panel which will fit in a 19” Network Rack/Cabinet, you can get keystone panels which offer modularity however they complicate the termination.

Power Distribution Units

A fancy extension lead that mounts in your cabinet, go with a 6 or 8 Way Horizontal, this should do you.


Things move on quicker than I'll update this thread and I'm far from an expert in all areas, please feel free to suggest better alternative and I'll update to suit.
 
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Caporegime
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Call me old fashioned but I really don't see the problem with individual specific questions getting their own thread, attracting 5-6 replies and then dropping off the front page. Not everything needs to be crammed into an 'official' thread.
 
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Call me old fashioned but I really don't see the problem with individual specific questions getting their own thread, attracting 5-6 replies and then dropping off the front page. Not everything needs to be crammed into an 'official' thread.

It's not about individual specific questions it's so people can understand networking a little that don't. The basics.
 
Soldato
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Lots of subforums have a sticky thread e.g. the watercooling one has "How to prevent galvanic corrosion".

It seems these forums attract quite a lot of general traffic from search engines now so could be very useful for people.
 
Soldato
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Call me old fashioned but I really don't see the problem with individual specific questions getting their own thread, attracting 5-6 replies and then dropping off the front page. Not everything needs to be crammed into an 'official' thread.
I'd say a central KB thread is more old fashioned than the newer social media style... We attract a lot of search engine attention so I want to create a hub where a lot of questions are answered and then can be answered by knowledgeable people on the forum.


I like it. There are at least two posts in here with answers to the most frequently asked questions.

If there are any questions you feel are missed let me know, I plan to add some images to assist in the wall of text and want to talk a little bit more about Wi-Fi :)
 
Soldato
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Could I make a suggestion? No worries if not.

You've missed off G.Fast from the WAN options, maybe inbetween VDSL and FTTP, add the following:

G.Fast - This uses similar technology to VDSL but it's boosted. If your local cabinet has a G.Fast Pod attached to the side and you live within 300m of the cabinet, then you can sign up for G.Fast from BT, Sky, TalkTalk, EE, and Zen. Your line in the local cabinet has the frequency power boosted in the pod which sends a higher powered signal down the remaining copper line to your house which will offer speeds between 100Mbps and 300Mbps. A new master socket faceplate is required in your premises that Openreach will fit.

Cable – it isn't quite as fast as FTTP but is much faster than VDSL/FTTC.

That's not really true to be fair. All Virgin Media customers can get 500Mbps from them which trumps the standard entry tier 300Mpbs of FTTP and in a lot of the country you can now get Gig1 which again trumps the higher tier 900Mbps FTTP. Infact if anything, VM is known purely for it's speed and always has been, it's just the quality of the network is dire and always over-subscribed with lots of congestion.
 
Soldato
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Could I make a suggestion? No worries if not.

You've missed off G.Fast from the WAN options, maybe inbetween VDSL and FTTP, add the following:

G.Fast - This uses similar technology to VDSL but it's boosted. If your local cabinet has a G.Fast Pod attached to the side and you live within 300m of the cabinet, then you can sign up for G.Fast from BT, Sky, TalkTalk, EE, and Zen. Your line in the local cabinet has the frequency power boosted in the pod which sends a higher powered signal down the remaining copper line to your house which will offer speeds between 100Mbps and 300Mbps. A new master socket faceplate is required in your premises that Openreach will fit.



That's not really true to be fair. All Virgin Media customers can get 500Mbps from them which trumps the standard entry tier 300Mpbs of FTTP and in a lot of the country you can now get Gig1 which again trumps the higher tier 900Mbps FTTP. Infact if anything, VM is known purely for it's speed and always has been, it's just the quality of the network is dire and always over-subscribed with lots of congestion.
No you're absolutely fine to make a suggestion, I far from know it all and I had considered adding G.Fast but wasn't fully sure on the technologies.

I've amended Cable, although I was mainly thinking of commercial FTTP which usually opens at 250 but then goes up to several gig where desired.
 
Soldato
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Maybe satellite ought to go in the WAN connection types? If you live absolutely in the middle of nowhere without mobile or fixed line broadband it’s the only choice. It may be rubbish but it can be obtained nearly everywhere. There’s also quite a few WISPs out there as another type. And people often get confused with FTTPoD so may be worth calling that out and how it is different to FTTP.
 
Soldato
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I missed this when it was first posted but I've stickied it now, thanks @Hyburnate.
No worries and thank you :)

Maybe satellite ought to go in the WAN connection types? If you live absolutely in the middle of nowhere without mobile or fixed line broadband it’s the only choice. It may be rubbish but it can be obtained nearly everywhere. There’s also quite a few WISPs out there as another type. And people often get confused with FTTPoD so may be worth calling that out and how it is different to FTTP.
It's not something I've got a lot of experience with but I'll definitely add this to the OP tonight!
 
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I would recommend a standard 24 Port Patch Panel which will fit in a 19” Network Rack/Cabinet, you can get keystone panels which offer modularity however they complicate the termination.

I’m curious as to your reason behind this?

I’m currently planning out a network install for my house extension and keystone seemed easier than a punchdown panel?
 
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Helpful thread, thanks for taking the time on it.

Been a long time since i had to think about any home network stuff. In the end i just picked up a CAT6 Connectix cable in 20m to run across the new house. Overkill, but i'm not ripping up carpets if i don't need to in the near future.

Shame OC don't stock any decent cables by the looks of it.
 
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Found the initial post interesting but I'm getting on and bits of this are well over my head. My issue is this and I look forward to any basic info., suggestions and recommendations.

We live in a new build with FFTP since moving in we have used See the light as our provider along with their supplied technicolor TG589vac V2 router. Generally it works fine but WI-FI connected items often drop out for a short period of time before coming back, it has become very frustrating. We have contacted their helpline and they suggest that one of our attached pieces of equipment is the problem. However having viewed the estate Facebook site many others have had the same problem and they have changed their router and now do not suffer these issues. We don't game but we do have a few streaming devices attached to TV's although they are used infrequently. We also have a smart TV, my wifes phone as well as a business computer and my laptop although these are not connected to the wi-fi all of the time. Finally we have a two IP 4MP security cameras that work over a Powerline. My wife and son occasionally need to work via Teams and Zoom

I'm hoping that we can solve these problems like our neighbours by replacing our router. I have been looking at WI-Fi 6, perhaps tri band routers but i am unsure if I need anything else to connect to the fibre supply (some mention of modems?) I'd prefer just an easy one box setup like I have now. I don't think we are heavy wi-fi uses but i do need a reliable product that is not going to cut out regularly particularly during video conferencing.

What do you think I need for a more reliable wi-fi and any recommendations for a quality router that is relatively future proof and isn't ridiculously priced? Thanks in advance for replies.
 
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