Vega 64 just semi killed itself. Help

[Dempsey22]

Hi all,

I took the block off my Vega 64 today and reapplied the stock cooler. I put it in my system and was all good but then I noticed the fan wasnt spinning.

I tried everything and it still wouldnt turn. The card boots and works perfectly it seems but I cant do any benchmarks as it will overheat.

I just thought a new fan unit will be needed but then I spotted this component on the back of the card. No idea how or why this happened but I imagine it's the culprit?

What are my options here ?

 

[Gtiracer]

Silly question but did you just forget to connect the fan wire to the PCB at all?

If that's not the problem have you tried forcing a 100% fan profile in MSi afterburner to see if it is working at all?

 

[Dempsey22]

Silly question but did you just forget to connect the fan wire to the PCB at all?

If that's not the problem have you tried forcing a 100% fan profile in MSi afterburner to see if it is working at all?

Fan connector was connected, i took it apart to double check and even reseat it to make sure.

Radeon software and MSI both reporting 0% fan speed and any change to it does nothing unfortunately. That blown component must be related to it

 

[Gtiracer]

Sorry to hear that. Maybe send a picture to the card manufacturer support email and ask a rough quote for repair, maybe could be salvageable I'm not sure. It it's not working due to just overheating could you not remove the shroud and rig up some 120mm fans from your motherboard header to blow up at the heatsink? Bit ghetto, but might save you having to buy a gpu at the worst time possible

 

[Gtiracer]

In fact I think I remember seeing a YouTube video on some kind of rgb gpu fan that sits in a second PCI slot below the graphics card from AliExpress or somewhere like that and blows air toward the gpu and would look a lot nicer than what I suggested. I'll try and find the vid if I get time

edit: just found it. All the best

https://youtu.be/Lxh5BpckJ4s

 

[Dempsey22]

I already have a new card in my system that's working away. I put the stock cooler on the Vega 64 so I could list it up for sale.

Hopefully some of the electrical geniuses on here will see the photo and be able to advise.

If not it's going on the auction site as faulty.

 

[Dempsey22]

From what I've been told it's a 0ohm resistor and should be an easy repair for somebody with the skills.

 

[Deleted member 77746]

From what I've been told it's a 0ohm resistor and should be an easy repair for somebody with the skills.

a simple soldering job, should take no more than 5 mins as long as it's the right resistor.

 

[Dempsey22]

a simple soldering job, should take no more than 5 mins as long as it's the right resistor.

Doesnt help that everywhere is closed and will be for another 2 months possibly.

Theres no way of figuring out what the exact resistor is without having a working card I presume?

 

[Mr Evil]

...Theres no way of figuring out what the exact resistor is without having a working card I presume?

If Dempsey22 is correct (which seems plausible, as the "B" label on the PCB could stand for "bridge"), then it's literally just a piece of wire. It's only called a resistor and put into a resistor package to make it easier to manufacture. You don't even need a piece of wire - a solder bridge will work.

I'd be concerned how it broke in the first place though.

 

[Dempsey22]

If Dempsey22 is correct (which seems plausible, as the "B" label on the PCB could stand for "bridge"), then it's literally just a piece of wire. It's only called a resistor and put into a resistor package to make it easier to manufacture. You don't even need a piece of wire - a solder bridge will work.

I'd be concerned how it broke in the first place though.

Yeah the card with stock cooler was bought at launch and worked perfectly. Took stock cooler off and fitted block and ran that for years. Then swapped cooler back and it wouldnt work. So I have no idea what caused it.

I've soldered smaller things on the mainboard for my 3D printer so I'm willing to try it myself BUT as you said, is it just a bridge or something else. I found a thread elsewhere where someone replaced B200 with a 0ohm resistor and it worked.

 

[Dempsey22]

Okay so I came across a thread on Reddit regarding the EXACT same issue to a 290x , even how it happened. Ran on water for years then switched back to stock cooler. B200 popped. He contacted Sapphire and they said B200 is the following


**B200** : FBMJ2125HS420-T PSP FERRITE BEAD 42R 4A EIA

On 290x its right by the fan connector too like mine. So I'm thinking if I can get my hands on the above and chance it.

 

[Deleted member 77746]

Okay so I came across a thread on Reddit regarding the EXACT same issue to a 290x , even how it happened. Ran on water for years then switched back to stock cooler. B200 popped. He contacted Sapphire and they said B200 is the following


**B200** : FBMJ2125HS420-T PSP FERRITE BEAD 42R 4A EIA

On 290x its right by the fan connector too like mine. So I'm thinking if I can get my hands on the above and chance it.

FBMJ2125HS420-T Taiyo Yuden | Filters | DigiKey

 

[Dempsey22]

FBMJ2125HS420-T Taiyo Yuden | Filters | DigiKey

Thanks it was first place I checked for it. I opened a ticket with sapphire asking for B200 information on the Vega 64 incase it's a different one.

 

[Doogles]

If it just affects the fan header get an adapter that connects to the motherboard and control the fan from one of those PWM fan headers, if you can get it working like that it's probably better than risking doing more damage although it's just my opinion.

 

[SkeeterUK]

FBMJ2125HS420-T

Put that in amazon came up with a part, dunno if its one u want tho?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/FERRITE-BE...eywords=FBMJ2125HS420-T&qid=1611686115&sr=8-1

If you couldn't find it.

 

[Maldoror]

There's a guide here where someone with an R9 Fury X has more or less the same problem: blown B200 resulting with no fan functionality.

https://community.amd.com/t5/graphi...ent-on-an-r9-fury-x-please/td-p/301943/page/2

Judging by that thread, they find it's not a diode or a cap and most likely a fuse along the fan circuit, which is certainly possible given how they fix it: "I replaced the blown component with a '0' Ohm surface mount resistor rated to blow if the fan windings short out."

Therefore there's probably also a very good chance it would just work if you solder across and bridge the connection - however, then you may lose whatever protective functionality this may have once served. Which raises the next question - why did it fail in the first place?

If you're not comfortable with soldering and want peace of mind, I'd consider spending £25 on an NZXT bracket if you've got an old AIO lying around, and just use that to cool the card (which bypasses the card's own circuitry for cooling altogether, of course). Or just a third party heatsink and plug the fans in else (external controller or suitable mb headers, etc.)

 

[Dempsey22]

There's a guide here where someone with an R9 Fury X has more or less the same problem: blown B200 resulting with no fan functionality.

https://community.amd.com/t5/graphi...ent-on-an-r9-fury-x-please/td-p/301943/page/2

Judging by that thread, they find it's not a diode or a cap and most likely a fuse along the fan circuit, which is certainly possible given how they fix it: "I replaced the blown component with a '0' Ohm surface mount resistor rated to blow if the fan windings short out."

Therefore there's probably also a very good chance it would just work if you solder across and bridge the connection - however, then you may lose whatever protective functionality this may have once served. Which raises the next question - why did it fail in the first place?

If you're not comfortable with soldering and want peace of mind, I'd consider spending £25 on an NZXT bracket if you've got an old AIO lying around, and just use that to cool the card (which bypasses the card's own circuitry for cooling altogether, of course). Or just a third party heatsink and plug the fans in else (external controller or suitable mb headers, etc.)

I actually found another thread which had the exact same problem but with a 290x I think, They removed waterblock, put back on stock cooler and fan went kaput. They contacted Sapphire and asked them about B200 and they told them its a FBMJ2125HS420-T PSP FERRITE BEAD 42R 4A EIA (Would this make sense to you?) . I have ordered a few of these and should be with me soon. Ill see if I can find anyone local willing to do it for a reasonable amount, last time i wanted something done was a 3pin mosfet and was quoted 60 euro. I done it myself and succeeded.

Thanks very much for popping in to try help.

 

[Maldoror]

I actually found another thread which had the exact same problem but with a 290x I think, They removed waterblock, put back on stock cooler and fan went kaput. They contacted Sapphire and asked them about B200 and they told them its a FBMJ2125HS420-T PSP FERRITE BEAD 42R 4A EIA (Would this make sense to you?) . I have ordered a few of these and should be with me soon. Ill see if I can find anyone local willing to do it for a reasonable amount, last time i wanted something done was a 3pin mosfet and was quoted 60 euro. I done it myself and succeeded.

Thanks very much for popping in to try help.

In the Fury thread they used a zero-ohm SMR, which isn't the same as what Sapphire have linked, although I can certainly imagine a zero-ohm resistor as used in that thread still making it work if the original was what you linked. For reference, 0ohm SMR is usually marked like this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zero-ohm_link#/media/File:0_ohm_SMD_0603_resistor.jpg (I don't suppose you can see if that circle was once on the damaged component?).

If it's a Sapphire card and Sapphire linked the above component as B200 for someone's fan that failed, probably best to go with what Sapphire linked.

In terms of mounting it, 60 euro is a bit steep though I can imagine it being a pain to organise in these Covid times.

Since it sounds like you do have some success in these things, I would recommend you buy Solder Paste from CHIP QUIK (easy to find if you google it; I don't know if it's against forum rules for me to link to a shop that sells it). It comes as a syringe and costs about £10-£15 for a big tube (you don't need a big tube, of course). First clean up the old area and put a bead of paste on each end where the metal contacts of the new component touch. Then press the new component down into place, squashing it into the beads of paste (component area looks easy to work with in the picture; should be fine as long as you don't go crazy with the paste and put so much that each end touches once it's squashed down - although even then it would probably work, since we think a bridge would work). Now use any old soldering iron and hold it on each the corner of the new component until you see smoke from the paste and keep there for 3-4 seconds (once you see solder smoke). The paste should go from grey to a reflective, shiny texture.

That may sound a little involved but it's much simpler than one might think - the area is nice and open with little potential for seepage into other components if you're careful and as card mods go, this would be one of the simplest and safest.

If you're not comfortable doing it, I think you're better off buying a G12 bracket an 80mm AIO, and you'd get better temps and a cooler you could re-use on other hardware, for the some money as paying some electrical shop to do it.

 

[Dempsey22]

snip

Thanks very much thats a lot of helpful information. I soldered a tiny 3 pin mosfet on my SKR mini board for my 3D printer. It was wedged in between 2 fan connectors and extremely awkward. I must have done a reasonable job as it's working perfectly ever since. The GPU looks a lot easier due to the location and it's just 2 pins.

I'll pick up the solder paste and go from there. Do you recommend anything in particular regarding cleaning the area before putting down the solder paste? Also from I can tell the ferrite can be mounted either way, would that be correct?