What "man jobs" have you done today?

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Put up a mirror in the bedroom to allow the Mrs to titivate herself and then an IKEA floating shelf in the bathroom. The shelf was a pain as the wall wasn’t flat.
 
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Missus and daughter away for a few days. Fed up of a hissing noise coming from a tiled kitchen floor when stepped on. Thought I would try to fix/improve.
Noticed a lot of flex in the floor in the high traffic areas. Drilled some holes in the grout, which revealed quite a void where the tiles have become un-bonded from the screed floor.
Drilled several holes at strategic(I hope) places, and injected a product called fix-a-floor. Managed to get 600 ml of product under the floor :eek:
Left some filled buckets on the area overnight. Seemed to go well. Will have a better idea how successful its been when I get home tonight.
 
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Missus and daughter away for a few days. Fed up of a hissing noise coming from a tiled kitchen floor when stepped on. Thought I would try to fix/improve.
Noticed a lot of flex in the floor in the high traffic areas. Drilled some holes in the grout, which revealed quite a void where the tiles have become un-bonded from the screed floor.
Drilled several holes at strategic(I hope) places, and injected a product called fix-a-floor. Managed to get 600 ml of product under the floor :eek:
Left some filled buckets on the area overnight. Seemed to go well. Will have a better idea how successful its been when I get home tonight.
I will do the honours of saying good job my man, as your wife and daughter definitely 1) wouldn't have noticed before, 2) won't noticed it is fixed. :p
 
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Also my contribution. My sister had some ugly radiator pipes at the bottom of the stairs. It's my Grandmas old house so it's been like that forever. Last time we were there my wife kindly mentioned they'd look better boxed in.

Went and did it last night. Not sure how long it'll last, i foolishly cut the uprights to be just higher than the pipes, but that then doesn't give the tops anything to sit on for support. I've pinned the edges into the side of the uprights but not really sure it's enough. Also due to uneven flooring there was a gap under the radiator and i couldn't fix it in place so had to glue it, hence the wedges in the pic.

99% sure i'll need to redo it at some point.

r1LUfxZ.png


On the plus side, i went to B&Q, bought a sheet of MDF for £12, then on the way out saw a very similar sized piece in the "charity offcuts" section. So went and returned the piece i'd just bought and stuck a few quid in the charity tub :D
 
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Honestly...

Followed by a link to a "fixer upper" on rightmove every 3 minutes.
I only mention it as my Mrs had a knack of asking at just the wrong time when somethings gone wrong. My man job was fitting a pull up bar, seems to be holding for the time being even with me testing:cry:. My next job is to adjust the shower glass screen (on the bath) the guys that installed it didn't do it straight and it's been bugging me a lot, the only thing is I don't know what the 3 screens go into, do they normally just go into a nut or something?
 
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I only mention it as my Mrs had a knack of asking at just the wrong time when somethings gone wrong. My man job was fitting a pull up bar, seems to be holding for the time being even with me testing:cry:. My next job is to adjust the shower glass screen (on the bath) the guys that installed it didn't do it straight and it's been bugging me a lot, the only thing is I don't know what the 3 screens go into, do they normally just go into a nut or something?

As in the framing that holds it in place? It (screws) just goes in to the wall through the tile, whether than be a solid wall, hollow wall, or if they were lucky, a stud!
 
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As in the framing that holds it in place? It (screws) just goes in to the wall through the tile, whether than be a solid wall, hollow wall, or if they were lucky, a stud!
Oh sorry the ones that go parallel to the wall. I get the feeling that the holes are put there when it's fitted but not sure.
 
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Stupid man question for you all. I've bought a pull up bar and I went to fit it but the instructions say 8 or 10mm dia. I've measured the fixings (the ones for brick that expand out, the metal heavy duty ones). My questions is that they measure 12mm dia. I'm not being daft to drill at 12, I think it would take a lot of effort to make it fit in a 10mm hole:cry:. I only ask as ive not used the type before, I've found a pic of similar fixings below. What's wierd is the bolts look like M6, which I'd have thought would be a tad underspecced (although there's 8 in total so maybe not).

https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-...sHKzuijB3zN3A1tYQgxoCIXkQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds


yes u would be very daft to drill at 12mm....

Start with 8, 10 and then 12 if needed.

if you go straight in at 12mm it'll be a bad idea as the hole will be too big to fit the screws
if in doubt always drill a smaller hole first
 
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yes u would be very daft to drill at 12mm....

Start with 8, 10 and then 12 if needed.

if you go straight in at 12mm it'll be a bad idea as the hole will be too big to fit the screws
if in doubt always drill a smaller hole first
No I always do Steps but the plug is 12mm not 10mm. I tried it at 10, but not even KY would make that fit:p. Also finished it and noticed my sds drill isn't drilling very straight. My Mrs seems happy as she finally has something to get me for xmas:cry:. On a side note, I'm amazed at how cheap they are, I'm looking at the professional bosch range and they're only 100 quid.
 
Soldato
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No I always do Steps but the plug is 12mm not 10mm. I tried it at 10, but not even KY would make that fit:p. Also finished it and noticed my sds drill isn't drilling very straight. My Mrs seems happy as she finally has something to get me for xmas:cry:. On a side note, I'm amazed at how cheap they are, I'm looking at the professional bosch range and they're only 100 quid.

lol at ky

bosch are decent but I got a makita sds and hasn't missed a beat
 
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Finally hooked up my Ubiquiti camera, moved the nano station cable to the same hole the camera cable comes from and installed a new toughswitch (due to be replaced as soon as a new one arrives)
 
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Missus and daughter away for a few days. Fed up of a hissing noise coming from a tiled kitchen floor when stepped on. Thought I would try to fix/improve.
Noticed a lot of flex in the floor in the high traffic areas. Drilled some holes in the grout, which revealed quite a void where the tiles have become un-bonded from the screed floor.
Drilled several holes at strategic(I hope) places, and injected a product called fix-a-floor. Managed to get 600 ml of product under the floor :eek:
Left some filled buckets on the area overnight. Seemed to go well. Will have a better idea how successful its been when I get home tonight.

I can confirm that this has actually worked. I did a couple more areas late Friday night. Floor is now rock solid. Well chuffed. :D

Can also confirm that my new Dewalt cordless hedge trimmer is awesome. I was fed up of cutting the cable on my electric one, and as my drill has 4ah batteries, I bought the bare unit.
Trimmed a load of hedges and bushes in the back garden yesterday. About 2 hours on and off. Trimmer never missed a beat.

Had a tidy in the shed.

To finish off the day, I washed the living room carpet with our VAX carpet cleaner. Came up better than expected.

Always amazes me how much I get done without wife and child around to interfere !!
 
Soldato
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I did some painting (will finish later tonight), but before that thought I'd read the water meter out front after posting in the other thread and checking my bills to realise they've been estimated for the last year even though the meter is external and one that can be read remotely :rolleyes:. Lifted the lid (had the drive block paved in April so this is first time I've taken it up) and found there's a load of sand and cement in there (warrants a double:rolleyes::rolleyes: and a ffs). Am I right in thinking just beating it a bit with something heavy should free it? I assume when they were doing the base for the drive they just went into it a bit (I'm hoping a bit as the meter is about a metre down).
 
Soldato
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Right chaps,

How would one go about un-doing this radiator? Haven't attempted it yet and I am sure I'll find a way to struggle, but is there a designed tool for this?

ZhkhFYu.jpeg
 
Soldato
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shouldn't need anything special...the pipework is just spanners...once the pipework is undone they just lift off the brackets usually unless there's something I'm missing in the pic
 
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