Spec me some cordless diy tools

[anonuk]

We are in the process of moving house and our new house has a 20 year old kitchen that we will be ripping out. We will be fitting the new kitchen ourselves and doing other jobs around the house so I am looking to get a few tools to get the job done.

In particular I need a circular saw that can cut through a kitchen worktop, and potentially a new combi drill.

I’d quite like to get into an ‘ecosystem’ with multiple tools using the same batteries, etc but I don’t have loads of budget at the moment.

I currently have an Erbauer Combi Drill which I really like (although apparently they’re now on a different battery type), and I also have a Ryobi SDS Hammer Drill which I like (I bought bare as I already had a Ryobi Strimmer that had the battery).

I’ve read mixed reviews of both Ryobi and Erbauer and don’t have the money for the ‘proper’ Dewalt and Makita stuff so looking for advice/recommendations.

 

[tonys]

You may have answered your own question, you already have 2 Ryobi tools and unless you plan to use the new tools for work they should be OK for a bit of DIY.

 

[anonuk]

You may have answered your own question, you already have 2 Ryobi tools and unless you plan to use the new tools for work they should be OK for a bit of DIY.

Thanks. As I’m looking to get more and more tools, I want to make sure I’m buying into a good brand as I’ll be investing in a number of batteries etc. At the moment I’ve only got one Ryobi tool and battery plus the strimmer so to move to another brand now won’t be an issue. If I go buy another couple of tools and batteries then change, the move will be a harder pill to swallow.

 

[dlockers]

Milwaukee [/thread]

use search

you can buy adaptors for batteries from Amazon

 

[Zaphan58]

I'd stick with Ryobi since you already have a Ryobi tool. I have many of their tools, combi drill, impact driver, jigsaw etc and like them for DIY, they've had plenty of use and not let me down. They've fitted a kitchen, boarded a loft, put up a fence and more.

Milwaukee, DeWalt, Makita etc may be better. But in my opinion they're better for the trades that are bashing them around and using them every single day of the year. For general use they're overkill unless you want a flashy brand and money no object.

 

[a1ex2001]

You may have answered your own question, you already have 2 Ryobi tools and unless you plan to use the new tools for work they should be OK for a bit of DIY.

I’d go with this, the ryobi stuff is more than good enough for DIY use and will likely last you many many years. Not everyone has the money for a full rack of makita power tools and the majority don’t really need them!

 

[Sin_Chase]

In particular I need a circular saw that can cut through a kitchen worktop, and potentially a new combi drill.

Do some research before cutting a kitchen worksurface or you will get terrible blow out.

Ideally you want a high tooth count fine blade to use in your saw. Should also cut from front edge to back edge and from the underside. That way the teeth cut into the finished surface rather than out of it.

 

[anonuk]

Thanks for all the replies. I've decided to stick with Ryobi, mainly as I just found a deal for a R18PDBL for £45 so bought two haha.

Do some research before cutting a kitchen worksurface or you will get terrible blow out.

Ideally you want a high tooth count fine blade to use in your saw. Should also cut from front edge to back edge and from the underside. That way the teeth cut into the finished surface rather than out of it.

For the worktop, someone has recommended that I get a plunge saw instead of a circular saw. I'm a little hesitant as I don't know how much use it'd get but I've been told it will mitigate splintering and will give a much more accurate straight cut. It doesn't look like Ryobi do one of these but can get a corded Erbauer model for £150 which might be an option unless I can find someone that has one I can borrow.

 

[dave28]

I’ve read mixed reviews of both Ryobi and Erbauer

they are more on the budget side of things so you cant expect too much, even the lower range of the big brands are a bit naff.

the good stuff costs a fortune in powertools, thats just the way it is sadly but the budget stuff usually does fine for DIY since your not putting many hours into them.

 

[DXP55]

I have a battery circular saw and I wouldn't use it on worktop -may be because it's crap but I have used a Makita one which was ok for small stuff - In the end I bought a cheapish mains circular saw- heavier -bigger blade and power -Always put a layer of masking tape under and over your cut line- mark cut line again then clamp piece of wood for a guide for your saw next to your cut line.
I think you can get blades for worktops.

 

[KompuKare]

I have a battery circular saw and I wouldn't use it on worktop -may be because it's crap but I have used a Makita one which was ok for small stuff - In the end I bought a cheapish mains circular saw- heavier -bigger blade and power -Always put a layer of masking tape under and over your cut line- mark cut line again then clamp piece of wood for a guide for your saw next to your cut line.
I think you can get blades for worktops.

I suspect the recommendation the OP got for the plunge saw was based on the guide rail system.

With that in mind and considering a kitchen is probably only going to have a few worktop cuts, I'd say clamp one good straight piece of wood as the guide and another on the far side too so the cut can't slip. But lose enough or the saw might get stuck and burn the cut.

Having said all that, is a DIY cordless circular even up to this? You'd think at the minimum that job requires a 4A or more battery whose parallel cells can supply enough amps. Same reason users of cordless angle grinders usually go for larger cells too.

 

[anonuk]

I suspect the recommendation the OP got for the plunge saw was based on the guide rail system.

With that in mind and considering a kitchen is probably only going to have a few worktop cuts, I'd say clamp one good straight piece of wood as the guide and another on the far side too so the cut can't slip. But lose enough or the saw might get stuck and burn the cut.

Having said all that, is a DIY cordless circular even up to this? You'd think at the minimum that job requires a 4A or more battery whose parallel cells can supply enough amps. Same reason users of cordless angle grinders usually go for larger cells too.

The recommendation was based on both the track as a guide but also the fact it doesn’t splinter as much as a circular saw would.

I’ve worked out that I will need to cut 6-8 cuts for the entire kitchen (2 worktops and the rest being filler pieces/end panels) but I definitely want them to be straight otherwise it’d ruin the entire kitchen.

 

[bremen1874]

Why wouldn't you use a router for the cuts you're talking about?

 

[KompuKare]

The recommendation was based on both the track as a guide but also the fact it doesn’t splinter as much as a circular saw would.

I’ve worked out that I will need to cut 6-8 cuts for the entire kitchen (2 worktops and the rest being filler pieces/end panels) but I definitely want them to be straight otherwise it’d ruin the entire kitchen.

Since, as @bremen1874 asked, you're not using a router (and AFAIK cordless routers are only trimmers) I assume you are just going to butt join with those joining meal metal pieces?

Two cuts sounds like an U-shaped kitchen. Which is what I have, and I just used those joining metal strips and cut the worktops straight without any mitres.

 

[anonuk]

Since, as @bremen1874 asked, you're not using a router (and AFAIK cordless routers are only trimmers) I assume you are just going to butt join with those joining meal metal pieces?

Two cuts sounds like an U-shaped kitchen. Which is what I have, and I just used those joining metal strips and cut the worktops straight without any mitres.

I want something to make the job as easy as possible and I would likely make a hash of it with a router haha.

To answer your question though, yes it is a U shaped layout and the one worktop literally needs 3cm taking off it then it will be the exact width of the kitchen. My initial plan is just to butt the worktops together with joining strips like you mentioned, but I may cut the edging off the joining sections to make it look nicer, I’ve not decided yet.

I did forget to include in my calculation that I’ll need to cut out the wholes for the sink and the hob but I’ve got a jigsaw for that (although may try using the plunge saw instead).

 

[dlockers]

Why wouldn't you use a router for the cuts you're talking about?

Unless he's using a jig to do a join a router will take 10x as long and create a huge mess.

 

[theone8181]

Unless he's using a jig to do a join a router will take 10x as long and create a huge mess.

Having made a shelf out of an old worktop (with a 1/4" router), I agree with this.

 

[JRJ]

Always had poor results with 18v circular saws on 40mm worktop, 240v gives a much better cut and you're not constantly swapping out batteries.

 

[Sin_Chase]

Cordless is great but I use a mix of both corded and cordless.

My circular saw is corded as I mostly use it in a controlled environment on stock that isn't installed somewhere.

It's a relatively inexpensive Evolution one and it's been a real workhorse. Done multiple kitchen worktops with it using a clamped straightedge and an 80tooth fine blade.

 

[mikehhhhhhh]

Unless you're doing something really demanding, sticking with the system you're already invested in is going to offer the best value.

That said, I've got DeWalt for 18v (combi drill, 1/2" impact, multi-tool etc.) and Milwaukee for 12v (3/8 impact, electric ratchet, hex impact and small drill) and I've been so impressed with the Milwaukee 12v stuff, I've had to talk myself out of changing the 18v stuff to Milwaukee on multiple occasions