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3090 FE RMA opinion?

Associate
Joined
7 Apr 2006
Posts
292
Location
USA
Hi Folks,

I was lucky enough to get my hands on a 3090 FE for MSRP.

Initially I was really happy as coming from a 1080ti is was a big jump in performance. But I noticed in some RTX titles (Quake RTX) that the card quickly became akin to a leaf blower with the fans ramping up to 100%. A quick Google search revealed that this was probably due to the temperature of the VRAM.

Many recommended replacing the thermal pads which I am not keen to undertake. However I found that by exerting upward force on the cooling shroud the temperatures and fan speed dramatically reduce. It would appear that the cooler and VRAM are not making enough contact without the upward force.

I have now made a Lego tower to support the GPU and keep the cooler in contact with the VRAM and now the fan rarely goes above 60 - 70% which is much more in line with expectations.

However to have paid £1,400 for a GPU that needs a Lego prop is not ideal. I asked the retailer if this was acceptable and they didn't comment, but rather started the RMA process. I certainly don't want to go and send this card back if this is normal, and then at best get a replacement that does exactly the same thing, or at worst be stuck with no card for however long.

The card is great, and with my Lego mod it is nice and quiet, but my OCD has me annoyed that I may have a duff card. What is your opinion. Keep it, or send it back?



shDf0oi.jpg

Just repaste it and avoid dealing with RMA. It's not hard to do. Just follow the video carefully and pay VERY CLOSE ATTENTION to 5:32 on the below video which is the "unlock" position for the RGB power cable latch. Take your time and this will be an easy job.
Get some thermal paste. Arctic MX-5 seems to be okay for these chips (terrible for laptops BGA intel chips though!). Thermalright TFX appears to be the best. Avoid MX-4, it's garbage. Kryonaut Extreme is also good but is VERY expensive unless you buy the 33g sample.

Get Gelid Extreme 1.5mm pads (80mm * 40mm * 1.5mm, x2), 2 packs, for the core side (first pack will do VRAM with a small section left over, 2nd pack will do VRM's with a large section left over, save the leftovers for the future). Do not use Gelid Ultimates or EC360 Silver or Thermalright pads on the front side--they are not soft enough. Use Gelid Extremes.

Two packs Gelid Ultimate 1.5mm for the backplate side, two packs (90mm * 40mm * 1.5mm, x 2) (better than Gelid extremes on the backplate because of the intense heat on that side).

Watch this video for disassembly. (Igor's video), pay attention to 5:32

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WWhqmP5eE_0

Back plate:

https://i.imgur.com/cndlWrl.jpg

Front (core) side:
https://i.imgur.com/SvVBVH0.jpg

(full spread of thermalright TFX is the best results. 9 large dots method is 2nd best results).

When you disassemble the card, take some pictures of the atrocious thermal padding so we can see what was wrong with the factory job :)
 
Soldato
Joined
28 Oct 2009
Posts
5,290
Location
Earth
Myself personally I would only change pads and paste once I know it's working fine in its stock state

Obviously something is up when you have to put pressure on the shroud up

What if you do all them changes and something else is wrong with it and need to RMA it ?

Also you only have one screw on the bracket
 
Associate
Joined
16 Jan 2010
Posts
1,415
Location
Earth
I wouldn't go replacing anything or taking the card apart as you risk voiding warranty. Simply live with the lego for now (paint it black or cover the lego with black tape if it triggers your OCD) then RMA it in 3-6 months when things have calmed down.
 
Associate
OP
Joined
27 Aug 2009
Posts
712
I wouldn't go replacing anything or taking the card apart as you risk voiding warranty. Simply live with the lego for now (paint it black or cover the lego with black tape if it triggers your OCD) then RMA it in 3-6 months when things have calmed down.


I think this is the way. It may be possible that there is nothing wrong with the card and the lego mod simply improves the cooling (I found someone else on YouTube recreate this problem). I applied a underclock of 0.85 and locked the core at 1750mhz. Card was completely silent with zero coil whine for hrs in BF5, fan did not go over 40%. Really is an amazing card.
 
Associate
Joined
8 Dec 2020
Posts
46
As others are saying replace thermal pads. I used thermalight 1.5mm 3 packs and dropped temps 30c-40c while it's off you may aswell add mx-5.

This issue doesn't just effect rtx 3090 FE it's all the 3080 3090 no matter the brand. Its a very easy job to do and actually quite fun seeing how big a difference it can make.

Its an easier job too compared to most the AIB cards which use all different size pads
 
Soldato
Joined
16 Jul 2010
Posts
5,894
Honestly, that lego fix looks like a great workaround for the overheating issue without having to potentially void warranty.

Yes, a £1400 card shouldn't need modding to keep the temps respectable, but not only are there risks with re-padding, there are also risks with RMA'ing - you may get a card with excessive coil whine back for example, or have worse temps, or it could get lost in transit, and of course you'll be without a card until they send a new one.

Of course if someone is willing to take the risk to re-pad, then great. It sounds relatively easy but personally I'd be scared of accidentally breaking something.

I'd only want to RMA my card if it had a serious fault, especially in the current situation where they're really hard to get hold of.

It's why I'm happy to undervolt slightly to keep the ram temps down for a very small performance hit. Maybe I'll try the lego mod, as my case doesn't have a window - out of sight, out of mind!
 
Associate
Joined
20 Dec 2020
Posts
515
Location
Leeds
I would just RMA the card, it`s clearly not right. I don`t think you will have to wait long for a replacement, drops are every other week now.
 
Associate
Joined
8 Mar 2011
Posts
639
If it was me.
I would repaste and replace Thermal pads for better ones.
And install better anti sag support.
Your Lego tower is good and there is nothing wrong with it.

GPUs weight becoming an issue for a sag and it is normal to add extra support.

Put your tower flat and see if temp issue goes away. Then u know if this is sag issue or thermal pads.

Opening card and voiding a warranty is a mith spread among low IQ ppl.
 
Associate
Joined
10 Feb 2021
Posts
608
I must have a completely different idea of what 'quiet' is to some of you guys.
My 3090FE fans never exceed 45%, and I consider that about the limit for noise.

Before I changed the pads, they would go to like 60%, which was far far far too loud for me.
I replaced just the back side pads, which is very easy to do. Since then, temps on VRAM don't exceed 95, which is still hot but cool enough to prevent jet-mode.
Now even after hours and hours of Cyberpunk 2077 at max settings, RT and DLSS on, max fan speed is 45%. (About 1200rpm tops)

however, OP, given your card goes to 100% fans without the lego tower, Id be taking advantage of that RMA and just getting it swapped. Sounds like you might have another issue over and above the standard crummy pads. It sounds like nVidia are great with RMA.

Also... just to calm down all the "warranty void if you change pads" folks again... take a look at this reddit users experiance: https://www.reddit.com/r/nvidia/comments/osljmj/my_rma_experience_in_europe_germany_for_3080_fe/

He had his 3080FE replaced no questions under RMA with nVidia, and had changed the pads. He didn't volunteer this info, and nVidia clearly didn't bother to check or if they did check, they didn't care.
So... till somebody can find a story that shows NVidia actually refusing an RMA because they found changed pads, lets calm down on the hysteria that always seems to appear anytime anybody so much as mentions a thermal pad...
 
Soldato
Joined
28 Oct 2009
Posts
5,290
Location
Earth
If it was me.
I would repaste and replace Thermal pads for better ones.
And install better anti sag support.
Your Lego tower is good and there is nothing wrong with it.

GPUs weight becoming an issue for a sag and it is normal to add extra support.

Put your tower flat and see if temp issue goes away. Then u know if this is sag issue or thermal pads.

Opening card and voiding a warranty is a mith spread among low IQ ppl.

Are you sure its the sag that is causing the issue ? personally I would first test the card at stock make sure its fine and then go on to replacing the pads

try placing the case on its side so card isnt sagging and no need to apply any pressure and see if still get the issue
 
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Associate
Joined
8 Mar 2011
Posts
639
Are you sure its the sag that is causing the issue ? personally I would first test the card at stock make sure its fine and then go on to replacing the pads

try placing the case on its side so card isnt sagging and no need to apply any pressure and see if still get the issue
I'm not sure, but testing the sag is easiest option.
Testing and ruling things out is how u approach the issue.
 
Associate
Joined
17 Feb 2021
Posts
563
Location
Surrey, UK
I sent back 3080fe for excessive coil whine on Wednesday and they dispatched replacement on Saturday
Is the replacement card better? I remember your coil whine video… that was some noise haha.

For me, my 1st 3080 would ramp up to 100% fan speed, so I RMA’d it and got a replacement. The replacement card was much better and fan speeds are normal, however, VRAM temps. were still high (in the 100C’s)… So I replaced the thermal pads, VRAM temps. are now in the 80C’s.

Sod the warranty, I take full responsibility.
 
Associate
OP
Joined
27 Aug 2009
Posts
712
Hi all.

Thanks for all you input and suggestions. I have conducted some tests with quite remarkable results. All tests consisted of running Quake RTX for 10 mins with all stock settings and a PL of 114% of maximum heat.

I tried custom fan curves and underclocks, but this was more a remedy for the symptoms, not a cure. I also picked up some heatsinks and a small 60mm fan for the VRAM (all for under £10). This knocked a few C off, but nothing extraordinary.

However yesterday I noticed that my original stand still had a very slight amount of give, so I added some of the smooth flat pieces of Lego to make it bar tight. Eliminating this last amount of give resulted in a further 10c drop! Unreal! It is very tight, but the tension is on where the GPU screws into the case, not the PCIE slot.

Case upright, no stand - Fans 100%, VRAM 112c, throttling evident
Case on side, no stand - Fans 65%, VRAM 108c

Case upright, mk1 stand - Fans 55%, VRAM 102c
Case upright mk2 stand - Fans 45% VRAM, 96c
Case upright mk2 stand plus heat sinks - Fans 45%, VRAM 92C


Based on purely what I have observed I would guess that many who are replacing thermals pads may not actually need to. The pads may not be the issue, more the contact.

The easy way to check yourself is to run a game and observe HWinfo. Wait until the memory temp is steady and then simple pull the GPU upward gently. The results in my case were instant.

I am very happy that I managed to drop the temps by 20c and reduce the fan speed by half without opening the GPU. I doubt changing pads will do much better. Regards the RMA.... I think the likelihood of having the exact problem with a replacement is high as so many are replacing pads, so I may keep it.


If anyone else has a similar experience it would be great to hear your results.
 
Associate
Joined
20 Dec 2020
Posts
515
Location
Leeds
In all honesty that card isn`t right and you shouldn`t have to be adding makeshift stands to get it working correctly. I`ve been following this thread since it was started and although some people are gretting high temps this is the first time I`ve heard a case like this.
My 3080FE was quieter than my 1080ti before I added the water block and the fans never went to 100%, the chances of you getting a card back with the same problem are very slim, so I would RMA it but it`s your call at the end of the day.
 
Associate
OP
Joined
27 Aug 2009
Posts
712
In all honesty that card isn`t right and you shouldn`t have to be adding makeshift stands to get it working correctly. I`ve been following this thread since it was started and although some people are gretting high temps this is the first time I`ve heard a case like this.
My 3080FE was quieter than my 1080ti before I added the water block and the fans never went to 100%, the chances of you getting a card back with the same problem are very slim, so I would RMA it but it`s your call at the end of the day.

Yeah this is where I am conflicted. The reason that I even went down this rabbit hole was this video . So it is not an isolated incident, just perhaps a less known fix.
 
Associate
Joined
17 Feb 2021
Posts
563
Location
Surrey, UK
Hi all.

Thanks for all you input and suggestions. I have conducted some tests with quite remarkable results. All tests consisted of running Quake RTX for 10 mins with all stock settings and a PL of 114% of maximum heat.

I tried custom fan curves and underclocks, but this was more a remedy for the symptoms, not a cure. I also picked up some heatsinks and a small 60mm fan for the VRAM (all for under £10). This knocked a few C off, but nothing extraordinary.

However yesterday I noticed that my original stand still had a very slight amount of give, so I added some of the smooth flat pieces of Lego to make it bar tight. Eliminating this last amount of give resulted in a further 10c drop! Unreal! It is very tight, but the tension is on where the GPU screws into the case, not the PCIE slot.

Case upright, no stand - Fans 100%, VRAM 112c, throttling evident
Case on side, no stand - Fans 65%, VRAM 108c

Case upright, mk1 stand - Fans 55%, VRAM 102c
Case upright mk2 stand - Fans 45% VRAM, 96c
Case upright mk2 stand plus heat sinks - Fans 45%, VRAM 92C


Based on purely what I have observed I would guess that many who are replacing thermals pads may not actually need to. The pads may not be the issue, more the contact.

The easy way to check yourself is to run a game and observe HWinfo. Wait until the memory temp is steady and then simple pull the GPU upward gently. The results in my case were instant.

I am very happy that I managed to drop the temps by 20c and reduce the fan speed by half without opening the GPU. I doubt changing pads will do much better. Regards the RMA.... I think the likelihood of having the exact problem with a replacement is high as so many are replacing pads, so I may keep it.


If anyone else has a similar experience it would be great to hear your results.
Interesting, based on your findings here is what I think.

When you actually get your hands on the OEM white pads you will understand why there is air space being created. They are so soft and have no retention in them to return to their original state (or even try to). So by you flexing the card, you are creating the air space between the metal and pad. I think once you flex it once, you are screwed, the air space is created and you will need to open it up to reshape the OEM white pad.

These OEM white pads feel like marzipan, so soft.

I think the aftermarket pads act like sponges and will give you that consistent contact between the pad and metal.

I am happy my pad change and I can flex my card (3080) with no variation in temps. (very consistent).
 
Associate
OP
Joined
27 Aug 2009
Posts
712
Interesting, based on your findings here is what I think.

When you actually get your hands on the OEM white pads you will understand why there is air space being created. They are so soft and have no retention in them to return to their original state (or even try to). So by you flexing the card, you are creating the air space between the metal and pad. I think once you flex it once, you are screwed, the air space is created and you will need to open it up to reshape the OEM white pad.

These OEM white pads feel like marzipan, so soft.

I think the aftermarket pads act like sponges and will give you that consistent contact between the pad and metal.

I am happy my pad change and I can flex my card (3080) with no variation in temps. (very consistent).

That sounds like a very reasonable explanation! The temperature changes as I insert and remove the lego tower is instant, indicating an air gap as the contact is lost.
 
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