I'm thinking of undersealing my car myself, so rust removal as much as possible then a rust converter then a sealant. Would this be something I could do with brush on products and do it in one maybe two days, I am thinking of hiring a ramp.
Under sealing is this a realistic scenario
- Thread starter mollymoo
- Start date
yes plenty of people do it themself with a brush. I use Dinitrol 4941, i just heat the tin up in a bucket of very hot water and pour it into an empty icecream tub or whatever.
you have to wear full face mask ideally because bits of rust and chemicals are not so good for your long term being alive status
you have to wear full face mask ideally because bits of rust and chemicals are not so good for your long term being alive status
Identify and clean very well the areas to be done, throw everything you can muster at the rust and then rust killer or converter. The more effort you put in to this stage the better really.
From memory it goes quite far but better to have too much than too little so get maybe 3 litres.
I used to buy packs of 6 because they were cheaper that way and i had spare for next time.
Not sure id bother trying to paint it tbh, although it does depend how fiddly the underside of your vehicle is. I think you will find it much faster and effective to use the spray cans (if you havent got access to a compressor).
oh, and dont bother with waxoyl. Use dinitrol or dynax products. both superior.
oh, and dont bother with waxoyl. Use dinitrol or dynax products. both superior.
Cool, I think I'm going to get 6 tubes or even spray cans (i'll have to see what they say about spraying) of 4941 and a couple of cans of the rust converter. I might need to hire the ramp for two days or spend my money on a jack, stands and wheel chocks and get on my back 
It is a bit like putting lipstick on a pig doing it yourself. You’ll never get to the bits that really need it.
Soldato
Krown Rust Proofing in Tipton, they spray it on all over.
I've asked for a quote but there is one nearer that uses Dinitrol so I have asked them aswell. I'm looking at around 4-500 to do it myself so it may well be worth getting someone to do it.
If you do get it done professionally, make sure you do some research on who you use and have a good look over the car before accepting it! I was one of those that paid a decent sum for dinitrol treatment, trusted they would do a good job and they had missed swathes of the car. Given that it was a Mazda MX5 its not like there is a lot of car to begin with! I had them entirely redo it.
Underboss
interesting thread, bookmarked as id like to get this done when i change my car
south east though
south east though
I have had a quote for £850 plus vat negotiable using Dimitrol products. All plastics off, lights out etc, rust removal, steam clean and then rust converter. After the converter has cured then a full coating everywhere except drive shafts etc including cavitys. The whole job is 3 days. It would cost me £200 - £250 for materials, £300 ramp hire plus they want the ramp and work area clean after doing it, so I'm thinking it's worth it for someone to do all the work to a better standard with a warranty on the work. The car is CRV by the way, 2009.
Underboss
look what popped up 3 hours ago:
You really going to spend nearly a grand undersealing a what 4k car? I think if I was you id do it myself. The real key to rust proofing and undersealing for me is maintenance, that being a one off undersealing isnt necessarily better than you doing yourself once a year and topping it up. I mainly underseal really old stuff which is far more prone to rot than anything remotely modern and its same technique, you need to keep on top of it i.e. inspect it once a year and keep topping up the protection.
The one piece of advice id give is that most cars rot from the inside out so the most important protection is the thin dinitrol stuff which goes inside the box sections of the vehicle. This need applying through any grommet holes or water escape holes that are already there using a lance and air compressor or if DIY then a spray can with 360 nozzle lance. The more gloopy stuff which is on the outside will over time get eroded by debris and water spray no matter how well applied so thats just a top up annually job.
good luck.