Corsair Hydro X build advice

Soldato
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13.1 degrees delta to gpu on the hotspot. this use to be 10c.

I didn't like installing the block. Two noted challenges with my 3080 FE and this XR7 corsair block.

When putting the pcb onto the block I was unsure if the block posts should come through the pcb to align on the back edge of the PCB. I decided that they didn't. and the PCB lay on top of the post without coming through the pcb.

Once attached and screwed down, I noticed a couple of the smaller edge pads actually didn't make contact.

These are the two that clear have a fraction of a mm of gap, as the card is also for 3080TI I wonder if that is the difference.

g2Ydja8.png



The temps suggest its all working though.
Just looked at the Fe cooler block and it doesn't even have these pads. The only difference is the rear plate lacking a hole load of pads.

Temps seem fine though.
 
Soldato
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Here is the layout of the thermal pads on the EK block, ignore the red circles, they were done for another thread.

MEvvsMS.jpg
Cheers. I might look next time I drain my loop and repad.

How often are you meant to? Every 12 months or something?

If I do it in 12months my aio will be ready to retired I imagine (3 years is long enough in my book for an aio) so I'll put the CPU block on and get another rad.
 
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You only need to drain the loop, you don't need to repad unless you feel there's something not right. 12 months is the usual but there are people on here that have gone a couple of years.
 
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I just retired my 980ti after more than 7 years of service and I never re-pasted or anything! Temps were absolutely fine its whole life, the only thing I needed to do was clean out the fins on the block internals every few years if they got gunked up.
 
Soldato
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You only need to drain the loop, you don't need to repad unless you feel there's something not right. 12 months is the usual but there are people on here that have gone a couple of years.
Thanks mate. Yeah I don't think I need to do anything. I noticed the PCB has a bit of a bend, only very slight, once mounted on the block. But all screws looked fine, the posts are all up against the pcb. I suspect it is the pads on the block pushing a little.
 
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I just retired my 980ti after more than 7 years of service and I never re-pasted or anything! Temps were absolutely fine its whole life, the only thing I needed to do was clean out the fins on the block internals every few years if they got gunked up.
How do you clean out the fins? Disassemble the block? Or go mad with pumping water in reverse somehow?
 
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How do you clean out the fins? Disassemble the block? Or go mad with pumping water in reverse somehow?
Imo the only way to do it properly is to disassemble the block. I took the acetal top off and left the nickel base attached to the card, then went in to the fins and other stained areas with an electric toothbrush. Advice varies depending on where you look/who you ask, but it did the job for me and I never noticed any adverse effects after cleaning.
Just be careful of the o-rings when you open it up/re-seal and you'll be fine.
 
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Soldato
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toothbrush and crest teeth whitening.. oh and disassemble the block
Sounds fun. Will take a look in a couple of years I guess.

Really impressed with this Corsair stuff tbf. Having water cooled 20 years a go it was nice to buy a kit and had it all work. Yes, I bought etc hard-line as a back up and some extra Corsair branded connectors that are criminally expensive. But it all went together like a dream over two sessions.

Defo could do it cheaper with other brands, but well, I can't really complain on the experience.

Although I can complain about the commander pro...that is a bag of spanners.
 
Soldato
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Anyone know if I can drop some proper watercooling dye into my res when using the hydro x coolant?

Kit came with clear coolant...wouldn't mind a green colour.
 
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