Ender 3V2 bltouch+JyersUI firmware game changer

[ScoobyDoo]

As i had a spare z end stop switch left over after installing the BLTouch i decided to print off a filament runout sensor.
Heres the link for the one i used.

Ender 3 V2 filament sensor using z-stop by Kosaro - Thingiverse

Works perfectly, had to resize the ball to 105% before printing, have it connected directly to octopi using 2 pins.

Ground from the sensor goes to pin 6
and switch goes to pin 15

then i used the filament sensor simplified addon on OctoPi and set the correct pin etc in the configuration.

 

[tlrBeta]

As i had a spare z end stop switch left over after installing the BLTouch i decided to print off a filament runout sensor.
Heres the link for the one i used.

Ender 3 V2 filament sensor using z-stop by Kosaro - Thingiverse

Works perfectly, had to resize the ball to 105% before printing, have it connected directly to octopi using 2 pins.

Ground from the sensor goes to pin 6
and switch goes to pin 15

then i used the filament sensor simplified addon on OctoPi and set the correct pin etc in the configuration.

Hey

Maybe I'm being dumb here, what exactly does this help with please?

Cheers

 

[bulb66]

Hey

Maybe I'm being dumb here, what exactly does this help with please?

Cheers

You would pass the filament through it, into the extruder. When the filament runs out during a printing, it would detect that and pause the print, allowing you to insert more filament to finish the print.

 

[tlrBeta]

You would pass the filament through it, into the extruder. When the filament runs out during a printing, it would detect that and pause the print, allowing you to insert more filament to finish the print.

Thanks for the reply, it would help if I read the post properly I assumed ...clearly wrongly, it was bl touch related.

 

[Scougar]

Thinking of changing my board to either an SKR mini E3 V3 or an MKS Robin Nano V3, but I am expecting the JYERS to not be supported, which will succccccck.

 

[HuggyNZ]

Hello from down under in New Zealand.

I am new to this 3d printing and loving it (3 week newbie).

I will be installing my CR Touch tomorrow and installing the jyers firmware as well on my Ender 3 v2.

I have a quick question that I hope someone can assist with.

I have a lot of items already sliced that do not have the G29 code. I realise I need to insert the G29 code into my Cura so all new slicing will have the code applied.

I have noticed that I can open the gcode file with notepad, and am wondering, would it be safe for me to add the G29 code into the files that I have already sliced. if so that would make it so much easier than re-slicing all my models.

Also just to make sure, I only need to insert "G29" into Cura after G28 ????????

Many regards

Huggy

 

[ScoobyDoo]

Yes you can edit the gcode and put the g28 followed by g29 in the code so you dont need to reslice.
Only insert g29 after g28.
The g29 command just creates a mesh before every print which if its a 3x3 mesh only takes an extra minute to do and well worth it.

 

[HuggyNZ]

EDIT:

I think I fixed the problem. After reading the thread again, I made a simple change of printing the first layer at 210 degrees, so far on 3 prints the first layer is sticking down well. I can now keep the z offset at -1.35 and the layers are being printed perfectly.

Look forward to my dual axis z rod and motor coming this week, that will help eliminate any z lag that i have encountered but have got running right at the moment.






Hi all.

I got my CR Touch installed. It has helped somewhat but still not perfect.

I have done all the procedures, make sure the bed was pretty level before probing etc. When setting the z offset I have it at -1.35 at the center probe with the paper grabbing but not folding when moving it, at this setting it prints perfect for all levels 2 and up. If I have it set at that -1.35 on the first layer I get nothing but trouble trying to get items to stick to the bed. I have my bed set at 55 and generally the PLA is set at 205.

To get around this and to get the first layer to stick down I need to tune the z offset by .05 ish to -1.40 to -1.41 for the first layer, if I leave it at that level it scrapes on the second layer, so once the first layer is down i use the tune to change the offset to the -1.35

Before each print the probe does the 3 x 3 mesh, and the G29 code is in the Cura software.

Am I doing something wrong ?????

It is an ender 3 v2 with the glass surface with printing on the carborundum surface.

At least my items all print nice and level now albeit with having to change offset after 1st layer is down.

I am going to drop the bed down as far as I can on the yellow springs and raise it minimally and redo the levelling and z offset to see if that will help.

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Regards

 

[ScoobyDoo]

Nice one Huggy, glad you got it all sorted

 

[ScoobyDoo]

Another nice addition. Octopi running on a Raspberry Pi3b+ with a cheap 3.5inch touch screen
Octodash is the front end and lets me control the printer totally from loading filament, printing, pausing, and gives a nice frontend.

 

[HuggyNZ]

Ok I am still having some minor problems to the above post that someone may be able to help with.

I installed a new nozzle and went and redid the z axis offset. In the centre of the bed and with the paper under the nozzle and binding but not bending my z offset is -1.20

When I go to print at -1.20 the nozzle is slightly too high and it wont stick to the bed so I manually adjust the z offset to -1.25 at this setting the first layer sticks but this first layer has the slightest of scraping to it. To overcome this, after the first layer is printed i set the offset to -1.20 and the print turns out perfect on the layers.

My understanding is if the negative number is smaller i.e -1.20 that the nozzle would be closer to the bed over the -1.25 setting, if so, why am i getting the nozzle further away from the bed at -1.20 than -1.25

I am waiting on a magnetic bed base to arrive and hopefully this may prevent me from having to slightly adjust the z offset after the first layer is down.

I did install the correct Jyers firmware for my v4.2.2 board

 

[HuggyNZ]

One thing I have yet to do when my current print finishes is to check my esteps. I have never checked or adjusted this since having printer for a month so it must be at the factory 93 setting, yet I have read many posts that esteps had to be changed after unboxing as factory setting wasn't quite right.

I have just done the capricorn tubing change but was having problems before putting this on so I suppose i need to check my esteps in case there is an under extrusion.

 

[ScoobyDoo]

It's strange because your cl touch should allow for any slight bed issues. You shouldn't have to adjust your Z offset once it's initially set.
It may be worth going to manual leveling within jyers and select to use cltouch.
What this will then do is measure the z offset at each of the for corners and tell you how far out they are, you then manually adjust the nobs on the relevant corners until your within 0.050
It basically assists you to manual level the for corners and then from them on, set your Z offset once and then the cltouch will take over and make any sought adjustments as it's printing.
I set my z offset when I first installed the bltouch and haven't changed it since

 

[HuggyNZ]

Hi Scooby Doo thank you for your tip. I thought my bed was pretty good by doing the paper trick, however, when I done it with the probe there was a fair bit of discrepancy in my paper levelling.

I now have all the corners within 0.05 of each other so a nice effort. However, I still struggled to get a good starting layer unless i tweaked the z offset before it printed the first layer then changing it after the first layer was down.

Ok this may help others in the future. The problem I was having with the CRtouch was that very frequently it would error out on me during any part of the probing process. I have looked and looked on the internet and I see it has happened to others as well. I didnt want to head down the track of putting in a new cable or other trial processes to resolve the matter.

So last night, what I did notice when the the ender was probing was that the steel probe would drop down as it is supposed to do, then a slit second later it would drop another micro millimetre. So that got me thinking, was the probe binding that would cause it to error out frequently.

My fix for this was some silicon spray, i sprayed this onto a cloth, pulled the CRtouch pin down, and wiped the pin with this cloth.

Well low and behold, I have not had one error on me during probing so far and even better, the prints are laying down perfectly without me having to adjust any z offset before and after the first layer.

My suspicion is that the CRtouch pin was slightly binding, this was also causing inaccuracies when it did get to probe the bed and now that the silicon was rubbed onto the pin. it now drops correctly and is probing and meshing the data accurately.

So thank you for your tip on bed levelling using the probe, this is an excellent tip that I never thought of doing.

 

[ScoobyDoo]

Excellent news Huggy, it looks like you've sorted the issue out. I thought it was something to do with the CR Touch as this should have been sorting out
any minor levelling issues. Its just trial and error with 3d printers but once they are dialled in they print great, until the next time!!

 

[HuggyNZ]

Done some upgrades today on my Ender 3 v2 and things are ticking away nicely. Put on a dual z axis screw, an aluminium extruder and a magnetic bed. I redid the bed levelling after installing the magnetic bed just in case, and I checked my esteps with the alloy extruder and that is still set correctly.

However, I still have a small problem that someone may be able to guide me.

I have my bed levelled with a .0010 variation between the corners so is pretty good, the z offset is set at 1.20.

Am running the CRtouch on a 3 x 3 grid. When the first layer prints its so smoothe and feels like butter so all good with that, however, on the next layer and upwards I have to fine tune the z-offset by the smallest amount because on the layer it gets a rough surface like sandpaper in some areas. By raising the hotend by a .002 ish fixes this. Clearly somewhere along the way the nozzle is too close to the print hence the rough parts, yet the fist layer couldnt be more perfect.

Any tips on this would be appreciated.

 

[HuggyNZ]

FINALLY the problem is fixed. I got to bed at 4.45am this morning and happy that I was determined to keep working on this until resolved.

It was as simple the Z drive belt and the bed drive belt were too tight.

The prints are working perfectly now on all layers, even with me testing winding the speed up to 140% and still a perfect test print. At 150% i started losing the quality. Not that I would use this sort of speed but now with the second z-rod axis upgrade I will be able to find my sweet spot on a speed increase to maybe 120% to 130% mark.

Thank you all for hearing me out.

Keep safe all.

 

[BeeP]

Another nice addition. Octopi running on a Raspberry Pi3b+ with a cheap 3.5inch touch screen
Octodash is the front end and lets me control the printer totally from loading filament, printing, pausing, and gives a nice frontend.

That looks really cool, research started!

 

[tlrBeta]

FINALLY the problem is fixed. I got to bed at 4.45am this morning and happy that I was determined to keep working on this until resolved.

It was as simple the Z drive belt and the bed drive belt were too tight.

The prints are working perfectly now on all layers, even with me testing winding the speed up to 140% and still a perfect test print. At 150% i started losing the quality. Not that I would use this sort of speed but now with the second z-rod axis upgrade I will be able to find my sweet spot on a speed increase to maybe 120% to 130% mark.

Thank you all for hearing me out.

Keep safe all.

Funnily enough, I had something similar a while ago. The gantry wasn't tight enough and was dropping on occasion. Things would be fine, the next day not so much or even change when I'm levelling.

The above linked with, manual tuning on each point and slower initial layer has helped me a lot