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Mine arrived an hour ago :) Will get it installed this afternoon, more important tasks to take care of first.

I've done the same. The view outside the cockpit is just an unpleasant mess of double-image blur on my Vive Pro whenever I turn the ship (which is pretty much most of the time in a dogfight). It's not a performance issue, it's something to do with the framerate lock not syncing with the HMD...

If the "leaked" photos of the 3090 is anything to go by, I'm having serious doubts I can comfortably fit that thing in my case without removing the entire drive rack...and that's just to accommodate the length. The height of the card looks crazy too, especially if the power connector is located...

1000W is enough for everyone :p I'm running two 1080s in SLI and an overclocked 6700K, and my PSU still feels like complete overkill. The most I've managed to draw from the wall is 550W. Of course if I had two 2080Ti's that might push it up by 200W, so no regrets.

Presumably it's a modular power supply, so no, you haven't skimped (I also have a 1kW PSU ;)). You'd be able to plug in a 12-pin cable, presumably it would connect to 2 of the 8-pin sockets on your PSU. If you had a non-modular hardwired PSU, then I think the options are limited. The 12-pin...

You'll be fine :) While this is all still just conjecture and theory, I'd be highly surprised if the 3080Ti came in at under £1000. £500 would probably net you a 3070 I suspect, which would most likely be well within your power budget (and probably not require a 12-pin cable!)

I don't think it's about the plug or its awkwardness - it's about the cables. If everyone stuck to using two separate 6/8-pin cables, there most likely wouldn't be any issue. The problem is a lot of PSU manufacturers hand out the looped cables (2 6+2 connectors off a single cable) and many...

I suspect it'll only affect the top-tier cards. If you have a fully-modular PSU, I don't think you have to be concerned - just order whatever cable becomes necessary from Corsair or whoever. If you have a non-modular PSU, then yes, you may need to get a new PSU. But honestly, if you're prepared...

I don't think it's that far-fetched. The reason they'd move to a single 12-pin adapter is to prevent people (like myself) using a loop-de-loop cable, which might not be rated to carry the full power draw required. It effectively forces you to plug into 2 PCIE connectors on the PSU end instead...

I got one from the earlier batches and I was howling in anguish because it was defective. As was its replacement. I'll be leaving this one for a few months after release to see it pans out first, not going to fall for Nvidia's crap again.

One word really: optics. Fatshark FPV goggles have probably less than half the FOV and correspondingly much smaller screens than a VR headset. My first VR headset (which I actually bought for FPV flying when it was still in its infancy) is incredibly compact...but it only has a narrow 40 degree...

Yep, the sky's the limit with these things - it really just depends on how much you're prepared to spend! For the casual part-time sim racer like myself I think the G29/G920 setup is ideal for the money (and the bare minimum for a decent VR experience IMO). Personally I can't justify spending...

Agreed.

G920 supports PC and XBox One, G29 supports PC and PS3/4. Which one you get is really up to you - they'll both feel the same in the hand (and feet), and the G29 rev LEDs you can't see in VR anyway. Personally I'd get whichever one you can find cheapest. Also look at the Thrustmaster T300 in the...

Yes, the G29 and G920 are practically identical. Both are PC-compatible, with the only differences being console compatibility and the G29 having and extra couple of buttons, LEDs and a dial on the wheel. The G920 has XBox labelling on the buttons (A, B, X, Y etc), the G29 has PlayStation labels...

It's a lot of hardware for the money :) I think I paid £180 for my G920 wheel and pedals. If you go for the Fanatec stuff, then you're looking at £600+ at a bare minimum. But you really have to be a serious sim racer to part with that kind of cash.

Logitech G920 (the simpler XBox version of the G29). It's what I'd consider the bare minimum for some decent sim racing on a budget. You can usually get the G920 or G29 for substantially less than the £300 RRP (it gets discounted often at a certain highly-popular online retail store)...

This ^^^ Just bind the reset view to a button on the wheel. The game normally centers the view position on startup to where the headset is pointing. It can also do that on starting a race if you have it configured that way. Having a reset view button configured on the wheel is essential IMO.

Don't look too closely ;) On some of the cars (mostly the closed cockpit cars), the wheels are missing and the wheel arches panelled over. It's basically a rendering performance cheat - they don't expect you to poke your head through the window.

That's a bargain, you'll have a blast! Generally it's the number of cars on the grid that affects performance, at least on my rig.The graphics you can push towards a mixture of medium and high settings if you don't go overboard with the AA. It's best just to spend a little time experimenting.