130k Miles. Big Service.

cyborg · 31 Mar 2009 at 20:33

So my car has ticked over 130k now, and I would like for it to go on for at least another 30k. So what would you have replaced, checked out and topped up at this sort of mileage. The car in question (Toyota Celica) is also now nearly 15 years old (very late 1994)

Obvious things -

Oil + filter
Air Filter
Timing Belt

I've heard using a different grade of oil is better for older, higher mileage engines, any truth in this? Oh and of course a picture...

Ricochet J · 31 Mar 2009 at 20:38

Whilst you're in the engine with the timing belt off you might as well do the:
Tensioners
Water Pump
Aux belt

All three will cost you around £60 total but shouldn't really add onto the labour costs.

Tinders · 31 Mar 2009 at 20:39

Oooh Momo's Ive not seen them in years, classic rim that

mattyprice4004 · 31 Mar 2009 at 20:58

For my old 400, the garage wanted £120 to do the belt and tensioner, £45 of which was labour.

They wanted another £45 labour to do the waterpump, plus parts costs!

I don't reckon they'll let you off with having the labour the same as a belt swap, unless my garage is just poo.

The Edge · 31 Mar 2009 at 21:04

That depends on the car though, some engines are much easier than others!

Matt82 · 31 Mar 2009 at 21:13

change the things that are due to be changed...

lovely wheels though. ive not heard about the oil you should use when you get to 130,001 miles though. as long as its not consuming oil massively, carry on as you were

GreenMint · 31 Mar 2009 at 21:23

No real advice here, but for a 15 year old 130k mile car, that looks very very nice condition, from here

Lashout_UK · 31 Mar 2009 at 21:32

All fluids - so transmission, clutch hydraulics, brake, power steering, coolant, oil, etc

Matt82 · 31 Mar 2009 at 22:23

just because it has got to 130k, you change them even if they have all been done recently?

cyborg · 31 Mar 2009 at 23:58

Well since owning the car I have only done basic servicing. I don't imagine any extensive servicing has been done in a long time, if ever. Timing belt change was at 81k, clutch was at 115k.

Lashout_UK said:
All fluids - so transmission, clutch hydraulics, brake, power steering, coolant, oil, etc

This is the sort of thing I didn't think of straight away. No doubt the fluids are full of cack after this long. Heard of different oil for higher mile cars lashout? At the minute I have castrol magnatec but my engine is still a bit tappy on cold mornings.

Lum · 1 Apr 2009 at 00:30

A different oil wont really hide the tappyness, unless you go to a thicker grade which may not be so good in the long term. Chances are the lifters are just worn. I probably wouldn't worry about it.

loltim · 1 Apr 2009 at 00:32

Is it still on original dampers/shocks? They'll be a little tired, and well past their best if so.

Matt82 · 1 Apr 2009 at 06:30

Lum said:
A different oil wont really hide the tappyness, unless you go to a thicker grade which may not be so good in the long term. Chances are the lifters are just worn. I probably wouldn't worry about it.

tappyness, ive found, was typically when oil itself wasnt getting to the head fast enough on start up or dirty tappets just not letting it in. fresh oil and oil filter may cure this, some form of engine cleaner would help too i expect to allow oil into those tappets and stop the noise

at 200k miles mine are silent

The Edge · 1 Apr 2009 at 07:10

I put a bottle of Forte top end treatment in my oil expecting no differance but things are quieter. Forte make good stuff.

Matt82 · 1 Apr 2009 at 08:04

yup forte are great. sludge from oil thats been in too long or the varnish that builds up over time reduce oil flow into tappets, forte etc clean this sorta thing. its worse when those build ups reduce flow into bearings, thats when it gets terminal. mine has been kept clean which has probably helped it get past 200k of being thrashed

cyborg · 1 Apr 2009 at 11:25

I was looking at Forte engine flush too, but a bit wary now after reading up on horror stories of killing engines on high mileage cars. Either of you two used the flush?

Lashout_UK · 1 Apr 2009 at 11:44

I forgot additionally, final drive (diff) fluids too - always overlooked for the most part.

Go over (if there are any) all the grease/lube points too. Get it re-undersealed if it needs it or hasn't already?

Matt82 · 1 Apr 2009 at 11:58

cyborg said:
I was looking at Forte engine flush too, but a bit wary now after reading up on horror stories of killing engines on high mileage cars. Either of you two used the flush?

i just added autogearbox fluid to the oil in my engine. the solvents and detergents in that actually dissolve the crud rather than dislodging it and clogging other things. my head had some varnish you could see inside the oil filler cap. the atf removed all of this and at 200k my tappets are silent.

other "flushes" are just uber thin and dislodge things which causes the trouble. so i recommend the atf mixture

Lum · 1 Apr 2009 at 12:16

cyborg said:
I was looking at Forte engine flush too, but a bit wary now after reading up on horror stories of killing engines on high mileage cars. Either of you two used the flush?

Some engines may be pretty much being held together by all the crud that is built up in them. clumps of crappy oil filling in seals that would otherwise leak all over the place. If you run engine flush through and remove all this suddenly your engine leaks all over the place. The same thing can happen if you switch to synthetic oil from mineral on an old knackered engine.