1957-1959 Phillips H4X73A

Soldato
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Something unusual for the HiFi forum :)

After watching the Repair Shop, it turns out that the mother-in-law had an old Phillips radio and record player console sitting rotting in a corner unused.

Original photo:

2gttGbR.jpg

So I've just got this back home and I've had the chance to walk through the entire thing - I checked previously when over in France and it 'works' (after checking the caps for leakage etc).

The insides all work by vacuum-tubes (before transistors and microchips) and the entire layout of the circuit is 'point-to-point' as was the norm before the invention of PCB boards.

hAs5VP3.jpg

Here you can see some of the glass tubes, some of metal canisters shielding the variable tuning coils, the power transformer, the cylindrical main metal can filter cap on the left, and the underside of the record deck at the top.
The speakers at the sides just out of view.

The schematic is pretty simple but complex:
afficher_document.php


(Source: https://www.doctsf.com/radiola-ra-498-a-am-fm/f2891?PHPSESSID=1fedcbec22395a39394a363799fbc044 )

Now look at the point-to-point wiring:

OKydF1E.jpg

So to make this more fun, tubes run at high voltage low current.. So in comes 220Vac from the mains, it goes through the transformer and power supply to provide 275Vdc and a few other voltages. So this isn't 5Vdc stick a multi-meter in.

The black cylinders are pitch-enclosed capacitors. The small ceramic tubes aren't wire wound resistors but "dogbone" capacitors.

Sofar:
* checked the chassis reference status - this is floating but can be grounded (important to understand later).
* checked the tubes for damage and vacuum loss (destroys the tube) - all good.
* checked all the caps for leakage - no leakage with low voltage multi-meter.
* checked the majority of the resistors for drift - no issues, they all are within tolerances (although two are close to the edge).
* cleaned the dust as not to be a fire risk.
* Checked the power cord etc
* checked AM bands - all good, receiving and audio
* checked FM bands - all good, receiving and audio
* checked the oscillator and the wave frequencies seem clean.

Now to the issues. It's 65 years old. It will have issues. I have already cleaned up the 20-40 years of tobacco and nicotine grime :puke:

* Power supply is 220Vac - this is regular thing, the modern wall power is 238Vac (France) and 245Vac (here at home). The issue is that the power supply to the internal components is relative to the input power - so 238Vac is just at the top of the operating range of the tube heaters (ie about 6.8Vdc for the 6.3Vdc heaters) so trying to plug this in here in the UK at 245Vac this would be over 7Vdc to the heaters which would damage them. This means I need to reduce the power - the efficient way is to use a step down transformer but the cheaper way is to use a resistor to drop the voltage by 25V so it's closer to the 220Vac that the power supply is expecting.

* Electrolytic caps are known to die over time, they have a limited shelf and operating life. However the black patch caps are known to be very good and still in spec, the tin cap used in the power supply tests correctly to block the power but it's usual practice to not risk it leaking DC voltage as that would cause a power short to the mains transformer *bang*!.
So a 500V 50uf+50uf dual section cap will replace the old original 1959 tin cap out of safety. I'll investigate if I can replace the tin cap internals with the modern cap or replace the cap completely.

* All the tubes are original Phillips Made in Holland. Neat but given they have been in service for 65 years (with a good 20 years "used as you use the TV now"), I would suspect they're a little tired. Although the main tubes seem fine - the magic eye tube clearly is very weak (just visible) and the internal backlight bulb for the tuning display is dead. So I will order a new magic eye tube and a back light display bulb (neon IIRC). I will wait until I have the power supply sorted to check the tubes in operation now I have the entire unit at home.
The AM/FM radio works nicely and given a strong station it will play loud and clear as to does the rubbing the stylus so the tubes still work. I did check the strength of the oscillator and that seems strong enough without any undue noise etc:
qPaCoGP.jpg

* The FM dial is misaligned and doesn't do a full sweep of the display. So that needs a physical alignment and possibly both AM and FM could do with a frequency generator setup and the tuning screws aligned - there's still factory compound on the coils!
I suspect that the two resistors that are part of the beat detection for the magic eye are also possible replacement candidates - they're in spec but merely as they measure at the edge of the 5% tolerance.


* The stylus is toast. It makes noise when prodded but I suspect it's had a hard life (there's a score mark on the plastic inline with the stylus arc!). As the cartridge is a high output (170mV) crystal output it could prove difficult to find a replacement - especially given the arm/cartridge design is mid 1960s and rotates to allow playing of normal and microgroove records. The cartridge is meant to have two stylus?! Not sure but I will investigate if there's a compatible Phillips quick change cartridge that will fit the geometry etc.
The record platter spins (direct drive via rubber roller) with mechanical adjustment of the speed.
So this is my concern at the moment as it may not be possible to source a cartridge or replacement. A minor modification could be made to allow attachment of an external photo pre-stage (probably an external transformer and connection to an external record deck). Either way (a) the record player isn't of today's audiophile standards, and (b) the console is mono only not stereo!
The alternative adjustment is to make a line in- then adapt the line in to 170mV or simply direct feed into the amplifier tubes direct.

* Wood paint/varnish - this is flaking and needs some attention to look similar to the existing patina.

If it was a stereo rather than two mono speakers, it would be a good candidate for some further investment/modding but think stabilising it and if I can find a record cart that will be good enough..
 
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Reminds me of this 30 min mark :cool:

I was thinking that's awesome, stereo etc.. then he goes ".. and yeah the guy took out all the tubes and put in solid state which should now last forever..". Unfortunately the tubes will probably outlast the solid state! :D but yep that a nice setup!
 
Update.

As this has an old fashioned power supply, the voltages inside the components provided by the power supply directly relate to the AC mains power provided. Back in the day the maximum this can be configured to accept is 220Vac.
Cue forward and today France is at 238Vac and the UK is 230Vac ±10%. This causes a problem as our mains regularly runs at 245Vac (this morning it's 240V). This means that the components would be subjected to voltages outside of their operating limits. So what is required is something to drop the voltage down to something closer to 220Vac - in this case I've created a bucking transformer.
More info is that it's the tube heaters that with 220Vac run at 6.3V with 245V run over their max 6.9Vac which shortens their life/overloads them.

I ordered a 30VA (think 30W) 230Vac to 12.6Vac transformer capable of 2.5A on the secondary. Normally this transformer would provide you with 12.6ac and isolate you from the mains but it can be used as a bucking transformer where the primary and secondaries are wired in such a way to cancel out some of the magnetic flux and therefore drop the voltage.

In this case a 245V input would result in 245*(12.6/230) = ~13.3V on the secondaries, and if wired the transformer can either boost by 13.3V or buck down by 13.3V. This means 240-13.3 = 226Vac or 245-13.3 = 231Vac and so our tube heaters are nicely in their operating range at 6.6V.

So it's now possible to use/test this in the UK :D Which will be good going forward as I try to fix some of the issues.
 
Been a while busy with other priorities but the Mrs wants this fixed :D

Plan:
1. Fit the EI buck transformer and replace the power line. I was going to use the 12.6V for a heater supply for the new amp but that will be replaced by a toroid :D
2. Replace the black pitch caps - given the sizes I'm tempted to replace with film caps. The size on the caps and they're 20% tolerance at about 100V-400V so I'll replace but I think the modern moderate priced caps will be fine for this purpose. I'm using Mouser as this will come in the same free delivery as the new amp hence the limited selection of components. I'm sticking to lowest cost caps of the brands I know:

C27 - 100K (0.1uF) topside will be replaced by WIMA MKS4 0.1uF 400V 10%
C39 - 1K (1nF) will be replaced by WIMA FKP2 1000pF 400V
C42 - 8.2K (8.2nF) will be replaced by Panasonic ECQ 8200pF 10%
C45 - 220K (0.22uF) will be replaced Panasonic ECW 0.22uF 400V
C46 - 470K (0.47uF) will be replaced by Panasonic ECW 0.47uF 630V 10%
C48 - 3.3K (3.3nF) will be replaced by WIMA FKP2 3300pF 630V 5%

i0ui2kj.jpg

The size of the caps is in pico-farads, hence the modern equivalents are far smaller. In fact the large 220K is actually a 0.22uF so it's smaller than a 20p coin.

The EM80 I think I may leave for now. If I need to replace the tubes I'll batch that in with the order.

The original dial bulb is powered off the heater line. The 8024N/778 6.3V 300mA but mouser only has a 6.3V 150mA bayonet bulb and bypass and parallel with a 42ohm resistor so the heater rails are kept in close to. The bulb is 20,000h at 4.15lm. I could replace the resistor with a second bulb.

I'm trying to think what todo with the record deck. It's phono stage is designed for the high output cart so I can't replace with a MM or MC. One option is to replace with a bluetooth board for the modern use so you can just use bluetooth digital from the phone and the bluetooth chip then turns it to audio which is then fed at low (100mV) signal level into the phono stage input :D The bluetooth boards are about £2.50. I will need to perhaps make a regulator for it too but that will have to be done after I have the board - there's no data sheet so I'll have to reverse engineer the signal strength, noise and power.

So my new amp will now get a sine new toroid transformer (which I wanted but didn't have the excuse for).. looking forward to this.
 
* The stylus is toast. It makes noise when prodded but I suspect it's had a hard life (there's a score mark on the plastic inline with the stylus arc!). As the cartridge is a high output (170mV) crystal output it could prove difficult to find a replacement - especially given the arm/cartridge design is mid 1960s and rotates to allow playing of normal and microgroove records. The cartridge is meant to have two stylus?! Not sure but I will investigate if there's a compatible Phillips quick change cartridge that will fit the geometry etc.

Proper crystal cartridges degraded with time. Even unused, the crystal would breakdown. The newer ceramics are a man-made crystal with a longer shelf life. Their also designed for higher-mass arms and have a low compliance (stiff) suspension.
 
Proper crystal cartridges degraded with time. Even unused, the crystal would breakdown. The newer ceramics are a man-made crystal with a longer shelf life. Their also designed for higher-mass arms and have a low compliance (stiff) suspension.

Moisture causes the crystals to dissolve in the petroleum jelly. I've looked at several options to solve the issue (as all AG3016 carts will now be past their best). The GP240 cartridge could be make to work by restuffing into the AG shell. The GP has a male plug and the AG has a female socket for the cartridge. I've also walked through the radio and as the record player cart has a 100mV output it simply goes straight into the driver EABC80 driver for the EL84 power amp stage. The alternative is simply make it a phono out socket and attach a new record deck+phono stage to it.

I've extracted the chassis in preparation for friday when the components arrive - it has a gag inducing amount of dust on it:
D0pndIV.jpg

You can see the top mounted 100KpF (0.1uF) capacitor on the top. Shielded to ground with a copper jacket. Also there's a bodge job for the amplifier speakers too, the speaker wire has broken and therefore also needs sorting out.

I'm also going to have to use the spare area on the side near the mains transformer to put the bucking transformer and replacement mains cable. In the same area near the rectifier (horizontal tube) I'll move the position of the mains filter cap. They have the mains filter cap right next to the RF amplifier. It would be quieter to have the smooth DC through the wires not the mains AC hum to that side of the board. Don't even start me on the heater wiring!
 
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Parts arrived this afternoon, recapped and the bulb works nicely - not too bright not too dim:
5kNRCEv.jpg

I missed two caps but managed to find a salvaged caps that's not too large for the moment. The modern equivalent caps look tiny!

l0cLI9H.jpg

No mains hum, no cap DC noise through the speakers either. Just need to reassemble and re-locate the 50uF-50uF dual section cap as it's fatter and shorter than the original.
 
I replaced the two temporary capacitors - that's the blue 2pF and large 220nF Panasonic connected to the output transformer with the correct 2200pF and 4700pF WIMA FKP1s. In short the only elecrolytic capacitor now is the new main 50uF+50uF mains filter capacitor. The receiver is now back together, with the bucking transformer screwed into the chassis with a new UK mains cord. It's good for a long, long time.

How does it sound? Well - this is without any realignment (I don't have a signal generator with AM or FM modulation), using the factory alignment:


No hiss, no hum and very clear.
 
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