1st attempt at Watercooling

Is it my imagination or have you done it back to front?

Pump - Northbridge - Gfx - rad - cpu - res - pump

I know it does'nt make an awful difference to temps but it's usually:

res - pump - cpu - Northbridge - Gfx - rad - res


Looks quite tidy though. Welcome to WC.
 
Athlon FX 55
Asus A8N-SLI Deluxe
Corsair 1GB DDR XMS3200C2PT TwinX
XFX GF 6800 ultra
Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi Xtreme Music
2x 74GB WD Raptors
Thermaltake 680W PurePower PSU
CoolerMaster Stacker 810
Swiftech H20-220 Apex Ultra+ Watercooling Kit
 
my loop goes..

res, pump, nb, gpu, rad, cpu, res

thought this would give the best cool water to the cpu, coz it comes striaght from the rad
 
beer_puppy said:
my loop goes..

res, pump, nb, gpu, rad, cpu, res

thought this would give the best cool water to the cpu, coz it comes striaght from the rad
Click to expand...


you should always have your pump feeding off your res... and then to your CPU...

but nice set up

Stelly
 
the temperature difference in the water between each component only varies ~1c, so loop order doesnt *really* matter
so the theory that the water is cooler because it has just come from the radiator is not exactly true.

BUT

The Pressure drops after each pass, and you have your CPU last in the loop,
so for a block that relies on water being pushed into the middle, above the middle of the CPU IHS it may be suffering from low pressure.

if your temps are okay, dont fix it.
but personaly i would have done this a whole different way :)
Rick
 
your rad can also fit up front in the drive bays pulling air in, or on the floor where the grill is( designed for 120.2 rad )
just a pointer should you decide to change things around.

nice setup tho :)
 
How difficult did you find the instillation? I'm looking into building my first WC setup and will probably go for the same Swiftech kit as you, only with some tygon tubing as a lot of people have recommended it over the supplied tubing.
 
the install wasnt that bad, the instructions that comes with kit is very clear, and all the bits and bobs like screws and stuff are all in there own labelled bags, the hardest part is getting the tubing over the barbs, i found boiling the kettle and putting the water into a mug, dip the tubing in the mug softens the tubing, then it goes straight over the barbs.
I also didnt test the kit outside my case, i just used another psu and tested the kit that way, so none of the parts inside the case had any power.
 
mercyless - what is the best way to mount the rad in the drive bays?
also if it was mounted in the floor where the grill is wouldnt it struggle to get any air??
 
beer_puppy said:
mercyless - what is the best way to mount the rad in the drive bays?
also if it was mounted in the floor where the grill is would it struggle to get any air??
Click to expand...

there's a few ways in mounting it, i used the brackets for floppy when i had 120.1 but you need to straightern them to form an ' L ' shape, also trimming is needed, best is to use cable ties from fans to bays.




dual heatercore is wider but fitted just right. had fans pushing
mounting rad over grille hole would still be ok provided you have the case on wheels.
some ideas in this link
 
Last edited:
R B CUSTOMS said:
The Pressure drops after each pass, and you have your CPU last in the loop,
so for a block that relies on water being pushed into the middle, above the middle of the CPU IHS it may be suffering from low pressure.
Click to expand...

Indeed the old blocks (like the Dtek WW, LRWW etc) worked better under higher pressures - the accepted order was [pump > cpu block > other blocks > rad].

Northbridge blocks werent very popular because they were restrictive and had a negative impact on flow - better to mod a small HSF on there.
 
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