200sx drinkin fuel

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Hi

My new s14 is completely drinking fuel. I know there bad on it but its real, real bad. So ideas whats wrong with it, cause there is deff something wrong. And how to fix :)

Thanks
 
When was its last service?

If I bought such a car 2nd hand, I'd have it serviced asap to identify any possible issues before it can be blamed on myself if I wish to return a dodgy vehicle. It could be the filters are due a swap.
 
I have been driving sensible enough, its not a "200's drink fuel, get used to it" problem, I know they drink fuel. But i have put £40 in and done about 120 mile.

Due full service on monday, fuel filter, air filter engine flush, oil filter, fully synthetic oil and new plugs.
 
I wasn't having a pop mate :). I get £140-150 on £40 of fuel on average but I wouldn't expect yours to be that thirsty unless uprated a fair bit or like you say, something is off. Have you reset the ECU and had a look around the engine for anything obvious? Can you read out any stored error codes from the ECU before you reset it? Does the car feel like it is running perfectly? Have you had one of your friends following behind you when booting it and can they see/smell her dumping a lot of excess fuel out of the back when booting it?
 
Its drivin good, and pulling well on boost. At idle there is a tappy noise that im told is something to do with tappets, tick tick tick speeds up with revs til about 1750.. Not the vvt rattle. The friend that is doing the servicing has stripped his own more times that enough to know its not vvt.

Im hoping the full service will help. Under the bonnet there is no indication of anything wrong. But its really really drinking the petrol.

:o
 
Would lack of a service really bring things that low ? Any other ideas >

The car is standard. Would a run down a rolling road help much ? or show any problems ?
 
Get the big service out of the way first but get the ECU queried for error codes before they start IMO. The first thing I did was throw very thorough services at each of my 3 scoobs when I bought them and they all served me brilliantly. Don't worry until you get it back and find the problem remains.

P.S ECU codes ;)
 
Did a lot of home work on 200sx and here is your list for problem that would casue that kind of drastic fuel usage. ( av for £55 tank seems around 200-250 miles depending on mods and heavy footage! big mpg thread can be found here http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=239745&highlight=fuel+consumption ). A leak of some kind is a very good bet.

* Leak in the intercooler pipes, mostly the wing mounted intercooler is the culprit as the piping is susceptible to cracking.

* Dead/Dodgy lambda sensor

* Boost leak
 
Excellent, someone with some specific pointers for that car. Unfortunatly I don't know how to read the codes on that car as I have never had a 200SX I am afraid.
 
I just know that i could probably watch the needle go down if i concentrated enough over a pretty short distance of normal...just-about on boost driving. :confused:
 
David _b said:
How do you read ecu codes ?

This was shamelessly pinched off another site

Firstly, locate the CONSULT connector. It is in the driver's side foot-well fuse compartment (the socket at the bottom on RHD cars). With the engine OFF, bridge the two pins on the top row on the right (or nearest the door is another way to put it). Now, watch the "Check Engine" light (MIL) as you start the car. There are two kinds of "flashes" and two kinds of "gaps"

Long Flash - 0.6 seconds on (the first digit)
Short Flash - 0.3 seconds on (the second digit)
Long Gap - 2.1 seconds off (used between codes)
Short Gap - 0.9 seconds off (used between digits)

So, there are two digits in each code. Count the long flashes, then the short flashes (only count how many times the light is ON) and you'll have a 2 digit code. These codes are covered in the service manual.

Quote:
This is a generic list of Nissan Fault Codes. (looks like they use the same basic ECU in most models). Not all codes will be reported by all models

Code Meaning
11 Camshaft Position Sensor
12 Air Flow Meter
13 Coolant Temperature Sensor
14 Vehicle Speed Sensor
21 Ignition Signal
25 IACV - AAC Valve
26 Boost Pressure Sensor
31 ECM Fault
32 Exhaust Gas Recirculation System
33 Front EGO Sensor (O2-1 Sensor)
34 Knock Sensor
35 EGR Temperature Sensor
36 EGR BPT Valve
37 Closed Loop System
41 Intake Air Temperature Sensor
43 Throttle Position Sensor
54 Signal from Auto Transmission
55 Other Malfunction. CONSULT Terminal Required
63 Cylinder 6 Misfire (?)
64 Cylinder 5 Misfire (?)
65 Cylinder 4 Misfire
66 Cylinder 3 Misfire
67 Cylinder 2 Misfire
68 Cylinder 1 Misfire
71 Random Misfire
72 TW Catalyst System
76 Fuel Injection System
77 Rear EGO Sensor (O2-2)
82 Crank Position Sensor
84 Automatic Transmission Diagnostic Comms Line
95 Crank Position Cog
98 Coolant Temperature Sensor
103 Park/Neutral Switch
105 EGR Solenoid
111 Inhibitor Switch
112 Automatic Transmission Speed Sensor
113 Automatic Transmission 1st Signal
114 Automatic Transmission 2nd Signal
115 Automatic Transmission 3rd Signal
116 Automatic Transmission 4th Signal
118 Automatic Transmission Shift Solenoid Valve A
121 Automatic Transmission Shift Solenoid Valve B
123 Automatic Transmission Overrun Clutch Solenoid Valve
124 Automatic Transmission TOR Conv Solenoid Valve
125 Automatic Transmission Line Pressure Solenoid
126 Automatic Transmission Throttle Position Sensor
127 Automatic Transmission Engine Speed Signal
128 Automatic Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor

Hope this is of some help to you
 
I hear the standard WMIC (wing mounted intercooler) is a source of boost leak and extremely bad mpg...so considering popping out and getting a FMIC fitted. Solve the possible boost leak/horrible mpg...and help more performance when im ready for it in spring.
 
David, so what do you get to a tank / mpg?

My dad, being a mechanic uses a particular software application to find out common problems. I can give you his number.
 
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