7/16" tubing very loose on 1/2" barbs?? Urgent help please

piggin · 18 Oct 2010 at 21:55

Fit the clamp & have a look but if you blow the pipe off

TheCenturion · 18 Oct 2010 at 21:58

That's my worst nightmare-turning the pump on and the tube blowing off :eek:

Lokai · 18 Oct 2010 at 22:04

TheCenturion said:
That's my worst nightmare-turning the pump on and the tube blowing off

If you clamp it, it probably won't come off, but to be honest if it was my build i wouldnt want to start with a kink like that, i would deff use some angled fittings, or at least reattach the tubing, it looks slightly twisted on that last pic, which if it tries to straighten itself against the direction the barb has been tightened it could come loose.

TheCenturion · 18 Oct 2010 at 22:05

I'll figure out the best way to drain the loop

piggin · 18 Oct 2010 at 22:11

I agree with Andy, better to do it correctly first than have to suffer the consequences.
Fit an angled piece & you will have no problems.

TheCenturion · 18 Oct 2010 at 22:27

It's an inconvenience to me, but as you said, it should be done properly. I'm not sure how I'll be able to empty all the tubes though. But I suppose that only the one that's being removed needs to be emptied

Edit: the 90' fitting is out of stock

piggin · 18 Oct 2010 at 22:40

I have just had a look around & a lot of stockist are out.

Do you want bitspower or something cheaper

TheCenturion · 18 Oct 2010 at 22:40

I don't mind what brand as long as it works

Maybe a 45' fitting might just work?

piggin · 18 Oct 2010 at 22:44

You have mail !!!!!

TheCenturion · 18 Oct 2010 at 22:48

Thanks , you've been really helpful, I gave a comment in your trust

I've realised that a 45' barb won't work, as the barb will go straight into my rad.

piggin · 18 Oct 2010 at 22:56

I have not given up yet.

Can you take pictures of the inside of your case without the tissue & further away so I can have a better look @ what you have.

I am going to bed now as I have to get up @ 5 for work but will have quick look before I go.

Check your mail also

TheCenturion · 18 Oct 2010 at 22:57

Here is my project build log:

http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18178985

if you don't find what you want in there, I'll take some more pictures

TheCenturion · 18 Oct 2010 at 23:01

Hi mate, I'll post the most useful pictures in here:

shadowscotland · 18 Oct 2010 at 23:04

Looks like the kink and lose fit are due to the wall thickness of that tygon.
It's too soft for tight bends or 1/2 barbs without clamps
Any kinks are perminant damage in thin wall tygon - imho i'd redo that length of tubeing

Tygon is more elastic that pcv tube and you've got the thin wall type
Part number AAC00033 (7/16-5/8)

AAC00034 (7/16-11/16) is the one to get if you want 7/16 without clamps but it's not widely available.
7/16-5/8 in xspc, masterkleer or Primoflex are all fine with 1/2 barbs.

For a first loop buy two metres of masterkleer or coloured XSPC tube.
thin wall tygon is not beginner friendly.

I used AAC00033 with EK barbs myself and had the same issue - clamps are a must.

piggin · 18 Oct 2010 at 23:06

I just had a look @ your build log and the pictures you just posted but I cant get a good look.

It maybe a better bet to do a new loop or run the pipe a different way.
If you remove the tissue & take some longer shots.
I also want to know whats happening at the bottom of the GPU to the rad.

Also will the tight 90 deg bends work?

TheCenturion · 18 Oct 2010 at 23:09

shadowscotland said:
Looks like the kink and lose fit are due to the wall thickness of that tygon.
It's too soft for tight bends or 1/2 barbs without clamps
Any kinks are perminant damage in thin wall tygon - imho i'd redo that length of tubeing

Tygon is more elastic that pcv tube and you've got the thin wall type
Part number AAC00033 (7/16-5/8)

AAC00034 (7/16-11/16) is the one to get if you want 7/16 without clamps but it's not widely available.
7/16-5/8 in xspc, masterkleer or Primoflex are all fine with 1/2 barbs.

For a first loop buy two metres of masterkleer or coloured XSPC tube.
thin wall tygon is not beginner friendly.

I would have thought that the other bits of tygon are fine? I can get some masterkleer to replace this bit of tygon that has kinked.

piggin said:
I just had a look @ your build log and the pictures you just posted but I cant get a good look.

It maybe a better bet to do a new loop or run the pipe a different way.
If you remove the tissue & take some longer shots.
I also want to know whats happening at the bottom of the GPU to the rad.

Also will the tight 90 deg bends work?

I'll get some more pics for you now

piggin · 18 Oct 2010 at 23:10

Just had another quick look @ the build log.
Will spinning the rad around & placing the fitting over by the hard drives help?
Will make the area under the GPU less crowded.

Also have you found any other build logs with your case?
If so how did they do it?

TheCenturion · 18 Oct 2010 at 23:16

Most other build logs with my case had the rad in the drive bays or face down on the floor of the case. I can't have it in the drive bays, and I don't have the tools or skill to cut out mounts in the floor of my case.

piggin · 18 Oct 2010 at 23:18

Bed now, will look at the pictures when I get up.
Just don't damage our build when I am away. lol

shadowscotland · 18 Oct 2010 at 23:23

The other bits do indeed look fine (images were not there when I started typing and got distracted)
But thin wall does lose some strenght when warm, keep an eye on it for the first hour, and the coils will help.

A single run of masterkleer is a good idea - it's not the same colour as tygon but simular. After a month or two the masterkleer may go cloudy

Personally I don't think watercooling shops should sell 7/16-5/8 tygon but since the rise of compression fittings it's here to stay

but that for another thread.

VirtualRain's Water Cooling Tubing Review may help