First off, my apologies. I did actually look up the N9 but put N5 in the reply by mistake. N5 and N9 both have about the same power rating anyway - 60W in to 4 Ohm @ 1kHz (number of channels driven is inspecified, as is whether that's an RMS power figure) but I have read 65W quoted for the N9 too, not that it really makes any noticeable difference.
Re
BIB: All speakers need a bit of space to breath.Usually with bass ported speakers in either standmount or floorstander configuration the rough guide is about 20cm from the back wall and somewhere around 60cm from the nearest side wall. Going progressively closer will have the effect of reinforcing certain bass frequencies where the sound starts to become chesty and eventually boomy. It also messes up the imaging, so you don't get the depth and height of the sound stage. Naturally, the deeper the bass a speaker produces then the more breathing room it will require.
Some of these effects can be offset to a degree by blocking the bass port with a foam bung,
but only if the speaker is designed to have this done.
Any speaker designed for this will come supplied with foam bungs in the box. Sometimes they're a simple solid cylinder. Others are a more complex affair consisting of one or two tubes with a solid central cylinder to make a solid shape. Reducing the port diameter with a cylinder allow some progressive tuning rather than the all-or-nothing approach of a solid bung.
There's a recent thread where someone with speakers mounted in the corners of the room tried the bung idea. They got positive results. Have a read here, particularly post #6.
https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/threads/wall-mounting-speakers-or-mounting-on-stands.18827371/
Using bungs does change the character of the speaker's sound, so it's not a completely benign solution. But overall if it fixes more than it alters then it's worth investigating.
This brings us back to the question of standmounters versus floorstanders in a room with limited space. Weighing up the pros and cons I look at it this way:
Floor space taken - Equal
Cabinet rigidity (*1) - Better with standmounters under £400
Bass extension - Better with floorstanders
Speaker efficiency (dB/W) - Generally better with larger speakers
In-room positioning flexibility - Better with standmounters.
*1 - If the walls of the cabinet aren't thick enough or braced well enough then they'll vibrate in sympathy with the speaker's drivers. When this happens you hear it as bass notes not stopping cleanly, and as smearing of detail and a loss of accuracy. At worst it can be a pronounced honk at the resonant frequency of whichever panel is vibrating. With small speakers, these resonances are at higher frequencies so are less likely to affect midrange and bass. Also, from an engineering manufacture point of view, the cabinet is the most costly single item, so smaller cabinets mean lower costs which in turn means more money in the budget to spend on thicker panels and more bracing. With floorstanders, the sheer size of the cabinet presents cost issues as well as physical issues. This is why cheap floorstanders in the sub £300 price range often don't sound as tight and musical as as standmounters at 2/3rds the price.
There's a simple test for rigidity. Knock on the side of the cabinet. If it sounds like you've just rapped your knuckles on marble or concrete then the speaker is very rigid. But if it sounds like a big hollow box then that's exactly what the speaker is.
The bottom line is that you need to listen to speakers in a demo that closely mimics how you'll run them at home. Then, if you're doing it properly, borrow the demo pairs of your two top choices and try them in your home. You may find that the speakers you thought were best in-store sound a bit different in your lounge.
