Car Audio Insurance

Aruffell · 15 Nov 2006 at 11:50

On my car insurance policy i am covered upto £750 for audio equipment and that is the maximum but i need to be covered for a fair bit more.

Is there insurance companies/brokers who will insure audio equipment for my car?

Many thanks,

Andy

saitrix · 15 Nov 2006 at 11:52

Tried ringing up your insurance company and asking whether they will for a premium?

Aruffell · 15 Nov 2006 at 11:54

saitrix said:
Tried ringing up your insurance company and asking whether they will for a premium?

Yep, and was told that £750 is the maximum they can do.

Andy

agw_01 · 15 Nov 2006 at 11:56

Fit an alarm, build a false floor, hide everything properly and be careful where you play it loud.

You'll be fine

Out of interest, what kit are you getting?

Aruffell · 15 Nov 2006 at 12:00

agw_01 said:
Fit an alarm, build a false floor, hide everything properly and be careful where you play it loud.

You'll be fine

Out of interest, what kit are you getting?

Got -

Toad Ai606 Cat 1 Thatcham alarm
Ripspeed DV725 head unit/dvd player/screen
2 x Fusion 200 watt door speakers
2 x Vibe QB69 6x9's on parcel shelf
1 x Fusion 900 watt amp running the 6x9's
2 x Kicker Impulse 1200 watt subs
1 x Fusion 800 watt amp running the subs

That's it for now lol

Am having the windows tinted as we speak so they cant look in

Andy

agw_01 · 15 Nov 2006 at 12:03

A friend of mine has that Ripspeed DVD player. Not a bad unit for the price.

Lose the 6x9's though. That's the biggest giveaway that you've got something special in the car. Plus, not to mention they sound absolute crap. Seriously. Nasty nasty treble and no real quality to the bass... they aren't going to last long either with those subs in the boot.

Oh, and amp the door speakers. It'll sound MUCH better than running off the headunit. Use the amp that you were going to use for the 6x9's for them.

Don't worry about rear passengers complaining about "it not being loud enough". Standard rear speakers and two subs pounding against them, and they'll be very happy!

Trust me

Aruffell · 15 Nov 2006 at 12:34

agw_01 said:
A friend of mine has that Ripspeed DVD player. Not a bad unit for the price.

Lose the 6x9's though. That's the biggest giveaway that you've got something special in the car. Plus, not to mention they sound absolute crap. Seriously. Nasty nasty treble and no real quality to the bass... they aren't going to last long either with those subs in the boot.

Oh, and amp the door speakers. It'll sound MUCH better than running off the headunit. Use the amp that you were going to use for the 6x9's for them.

Don't worry about rear passengers complaining about "it not being loud enough". Standard rear speakers and two subs pounding against them, and they'll be very happy!

Trust me

The 6x9's i bought are brilliant for a nice quality bass as well as a nice bit of treble. The door speakers do most of the treble anyway so no problem there.

Will take some pics when it's a nice day of the whole setup.

Andy

Confused · 15 Nov 2006 at 12:41

Let the subs handle the bass, that's their job.

High quality components up front doing mid-high range, and subs doing low stuff, and OEM (or no) rear speakers will be more than adequate.

When you go to a concert, do you stand with your back to the band? No - and that's exactly what you're doing with large, loud, rear speakers.

agw_01 · 15 Nov 2006 at 12:44

Aruffell said:
The 6x9's i bought are brilliant for a nice quality bass as well as a nice bit of treble. The door speakers do most of the treble anyway so no problem there.

Will take some pics when it's a nice day of the whole setup.

Andy

You're using Fusion amps and Vibe 6x9's... and want to tell ME about sound quality?

Don't even bother

Are the front speakers comps or co-axials?

Seriously though, ditch the 6x9's. Every set I've heard (Sony, JBL, Alpine) have all been so horrible to listen to I almost put a screwdriver through the cone.

They'll be SO top end heavy... but then, I guess loads of loud treble is cool :confused:

saitrix · 15 Nov 2006 at 12:53

I've never got the point of 6x9's. Why have them when you can get a sub which is totally designed to do low end, then componant speakers with the mid woofer for mid range and a tweeter for the high end.

agw_01 · 15 Nov 2006 at 15:37

Bit of cabling advice seeing as how you've got a few amplifiers to wire up....

DON'T skimp on cabling. Look at the fuses on the amplifiers and work out the total number of amps your system will need. If one amp has 2x 30 amp fuses and another amp has a single 40 amp fuse, that's a 100amp draw.

For this you'll need 4 gauge cabling with a 100amp fuse at the battery end. Run the 4 gauge through the car to a distributor block in the boot. You'll then need some fuses for the distributor block, a 60amp and a 40amp. From the distributor block, you can then use slightly thinner 8 gauge cable to run to the amps.

If you try to run 8 gauge for 2 amps, something WILL fry long before the fuses blow.

When I dropped my car off at the garage on Friday morning, I was on my way to the bus stop. I round a corner and see one of the guys I went to school with. I didn't go over and talk to him as he looked a bit pre-occupied, what with his car being parked up at the side of the road while the fire brigade were trying to put an internal fire out. From what I could see, the windscreen was black and various parts of the car were gutted.

I've seen it all too often, young lads with loud installs using dangerously thin power cabling. Decent cabling is worth the money.

xcessive · 15 Nov 2006 at 22:07

agw_01 said:
Bit of cabling advice seeing as how you've got a few amplifiers to wire up....

DON'T skimp on cabling. Look at the fuses on the amplifiers and work out the total number of amps your system will need. If one amp has 2x 30 amp fuses and another amp has a single 40 amp fuse, that's a 100amp draw.

For this you'll need 4 gauge cabling with a 100amp fuse at the battery end. Run the 4 gauge through the car to a distributor block in the boot. You'll then need some fuses for the distributor block, a 60amp and a 40amp. From the distributor block, you can then use slightly thinner 8 gauge cable to run to the amps.

If you try to run 8 gauge for 2 amps, something WILL fry long before the fuses blow.

When I dropped my car off at the garage on Friday morning, I was on my way to the bus stop. I round a corner and see one of the guys I went to school with. I didn't go over and talk to him as he looked a bit pre-occupied, what with his car being parked up at the side of the road while the fire brigade were trying to put an internal fire out. From what I could see, the windscreen was black and various parts of the car were gutted.

I've seen it all too often, young lads with loud installs using dangerously thin power cabling. Decent cabling is worth the money.

Great advice there!

One of my mates was planning to run 3 Legacy amps off 8 gauge power cabling.
Total draw of amps: 3 x 40 amp fuses !

He saw sense in the end and sold me some of his un-used, boxed ICE.

I would personally only recommend and buy 4 gauge (or 0 gauge for high power installs) power cables.

Aruffell · 15 Nov 2006 at 22:10

agw_01 said:
Bit of cabling advice seeing as how you've got a few amplifiers to wire up....

DON'T skimp on cabling. Look at the fuses on the amplifiers and work out the total number of amps your system will need. If one amp has 2x 30 amp fuses and another amp has a single 40 amp fuse, that's a 100amp draw.

For this you'll need 4 gauge cabling with a 100amp fuse at the battery end. Run the 4 gauge through the car to a distributor block in the boot. You'll then need some fuses for the distributor block, a 60amp and a 40amp. From the distributor block, you can then use slightly thinner 8 gauge cable to run to the amps.

If you try to run 8 gauge for 2 amps, something WILL fry long before the fuses blow.

When I dropped my car off at the garage on Friday morning, I was on my way to the bus stop. I round a corner and see one of the guys I went to school with. I didn't go over and talk to him as he looked a bit pre-occupied, what with his car being parked up at the side of the road while the fire brigade were trying to put an internal fire out. From what I could see, the windscreen was black and various parts of the car were gutted.

I've seen it all too often, young lads with loud installs using dangerously thin power cabling. Decent cabling is worth the money.

Andy, come on MSN matey, want a word

Andy