CBR600 F3 (96) Clutch question
- Thread starter MowyTone
- Start date
It's a Honda so genuine parts are easily going to be more expensive. But any time I've had genuine parts you can tell the difference, Eg brake pads
Well it's taken 2 and a bit hours and cost me 3 fairing bolts but I've changed the clutch cable. I'll have to test it tomorrow as I ran out of time tonight. Think it needed changing tbh lol
Holy hell. Spray it, spray it with ACF50!
Looks like it's spent most of it's life in the sea.
I bought the bike in a hurry as I knew the engine in the SV was dying. I was in such a rush that I grabbed something I could afford and in a hurry.
It's a CBR600F 1996 with 55K miles....no doubt by the look of her internals she has done every winter going. I'm counting her as a learning bike as she is my 2nd big bike and I;m doing as much of the work as I can myself.
There is no doubt that this bike as not been loved by it's previous owners, but still she goes really quite well for her age and I am chipping away at the issues that I find
It's a CBR600F 1996 with 55K miles....no doubt by the look of her internals she has done every winter going. I'm counting her as a learning bike as she is my 2nd big bike and I;m doing as much of the work as I can myself.
There is no doubt that this bike as not been loved by it's previous owners, but still she goes really quite well for her age and I am chipping away at the issues that I find
Soldato
- Joined
- 5 Jun 2003
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- 8,732
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- sawley/ long eaton
I see it has a manual cam chain adjuster, auto cam chain adjuster failure is common problem with the cbr6
mine failed at 37k
mine failed at 37k
I'm going to take a guess that the manual adjuster is the bolt sat at the top of the thread on the right, slightly obscured by the clutch cable?
That's good to know as I think it needs adjusting as there is a ticking coming from the right hand side of the engine that speeds up with the engine revs.
Good news is I didn't balls up the clutch cable and I was able to ride it in this morning without making any adjustments at the road side.
Bad news is the clutch still drags
Soldato
- Joined
- 5 Jun 2003
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- 8,732
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- sawley/ long eaton
Yes, you undo the lock nut and give bolt a turn, not much though, maybe a quarter if that and not with the engine running.
Bugger about the clutch still dragging
time to look in the case I guess
Bugger about the clutch still dragging
time to look in the case I guess
As above undo the lock nut and turn it slowly, you will hear the engine noise change, when it does back out slightly and lock the nut back up.
I would take off the inspection cap if it has one on the clutch side and play with the adjusters there to see if you can stop it dragging.
Im only up the road in Eastleigh if you ever need a hand mate,
I would take off the inspection cap if it has one on the clutch side and play with the adjusters there to see if you can stop it dragging.
Im only up the road in Eastleigh if you ever need a hand mate,
Soldato
- Joined
- 5 Jun 2003
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- 8,732
- Location
- sawley/ long eaton
Have one to fit to the ZR7
not easy to find one for it here in the uk, this ones from Spain.
not easy to find one for it here in the uk, this ones from Spain.
One method with the engine running and one with not?
Cheers mate I may well take you up on that as I don't have any experience with clutches yet
The manual for mine said do it with the engine running as you can hear the engine note change if you are putting too much tension on the chain, and if not enough you can hear the chain moving too much.
Video on it for your bike.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zB00JI5ZWFM
Video on it for your bike.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zB00JI5ZWFM
