Soldato
- Joined
- 22 Aug 2004
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- 7,606
Chinese tuning parts? 
Cookeh goes shedding...
- Thread starter Cookeh
- Start date
Caporegime
They also cloned the Corolla... You can actually upgrade the head unit in the E12 Corolla with a touchscreen one from a BYD lol.
Tell me more, we still have an E12 in the "fleet".
Caporegime
Its called the BYD F3. I looked into it when I had the grey corolla which was a while back now! Can't remember much more than that. Looking again I think one of the specially made Android offerings would be better anyway.
Also I sent you a video on bookface
Soldato
For sitting in traffic this would be the car, wouldnt want to be on any motorways with only 3 cylinders. Was LPG for T5 not an option or does that not help save money really. Guess Im thinking more of when it was 20p/l or so 
Changing the stereo and speakers is justified as it can just be taken right back out
LPG would be an option, if not for the near £2k fitting expense (for a good installation by people who know the cars) - definitely not the quickest way to save money. Desperately want to chance the spears but cba with the upfront cost, and the fact I don't get anything back from their expense when the car is gone. Rather put that £30 into the T5.
Caporegime
Also I dont know why but I usually skip straight past LPG converted cars when I'm looking, so despite the considerable cost, it might well make it less valuable?
Man of Honour
All over the place in China and Egypt, I have been in loads of these things!Its called the BYD F3. I looked into it when I had the grey corolla which was a while back now! Can't remember much more than that. Looking again I think one of the specially made Android offerings would be better anyway.
Also I sent you a video on bookface
Caporegime
I too tend to skip straight past anything LPG converted for a few reasons. 1) I'm never convinced by the quality of the install, the cars I've come across that are LPG converted (and owned by friends/neighbours/etc) have always had issues. 2) You lose either the boot, or the spare wheel well. 3) Lack of originality, as most of the cars I'd be interested in that have been converted, I'd be buying for the experience of the car in it's own right, I'd not be purchasing for daily use and care about the running costs.
Soldato
- Joined
- 22 Aug 2004
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All the LPG videos on YouTube put me off
Given the frankly ridiculous insurance quotes I'm getting on this car (£200 MORE than the 850 T5) I'm not going to be continuing my shedding saga with the Pug. It is up for sale, please message via trust if you are vaguely interested in it or if you have a burning desire to kill it on a track. I will stick an advert up in the coming days...if it stops raining for more than 5 seconds to give it a clean and get some pictures.
Soldato
Ah that's a shame. Enjoyed reading this little tale! Glwts
Soldato
- Joined
- 22 Aug 2004
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But that was a great thread
It's probably because people who own these things either have accidents (because it's not a very good car), or just kill themselves out of despair from coming out and having to look at it every day.
Soldato
- Joined
- 22 Aug 2004
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Cookeh has done such a good job of cleaning it up, that he has tripled it's value. Bumping up the costs
Caporegime
Who have you tried for insurance? May be worth trying a broker if you haven't already. NeedToInsure, AdrianFlux, etc. Or possibly putting it on a multi vehicle policy with the 850?
Tried LV and Admiral multicar. Used compare the market and money supermarket comparison sites, then the usuals like Sky, Greenlight, Hastings etc. High mileage puts them off, as does lack of NCB on the second car (they won't mirror my NCB from the Volvo).
Insurance quotes would be 70% of the total petrol savings for the next year so it no longer makes sense.
Over the last 4 months it's done around 4k miles, all on my commute and saved £500 there. But I've shovelled £150 back into it on maintenance and the insurance for those 4 months was £200, so whilst it did save me money it's not enough to warrant the torture. I also no longer have an additional 12k miles to worry about this this year (just my standard 15k) so that's less miles to make fuel savings on.
Insurance quotes would be 70% of the total petrol savings for the next year so it no longer makes sense.
Over the last 4 months it's done around 4k miles, all on my commute and saved £500 there. But I've shovelled £150 back into it on maintenance and the insurance for those 4 months was £200, so whilst it did save me money it's not enough to warrant the torture. I also no longer have an additional 12k miles to worry about this this year (just my standard 15k) so that's less miles to make fuel savings on.
In what is sure to be one of the last updates for this heap, and in prep for its sale, I managed to detail the engine bay today. I was meant to be washing the exterior and giving it a quick DA but the weather is not permitting that at the minute - nor is it permitting addressing the wheels. On the plus side that potentially means an additional two updates on the poogeot.
The engine bay was grim. Not a huge space to get filthy or any huge vents/scoops/grilles to allow dirt in so it's far from the worst in the world, but it needed a spruce up all the same. Here's what I was working with:
Bay before
Bay before 1
Bonnet before
This was far from any real sort of detailing - didn't even bother removing the airbox to get at the head, mainly just to get it looking presentable and so your hands didn't become black from simply checking the oil. I first removed the battery to give it and the tray/fuse box a proper clean, then wrapped terminals, vulnerable connectors, and the alternator in cling film to protect them. The fuse box is sealed so not worth worrying about, and the location of the air intake means it is also not worth protecting - if yours is in a location that water could ingress into then just block it or wrap it in a bag or clingfilm. I also tend to cover the top of the engine when cleaning under the bonnet too, just to reduce the volume of water entering the engine bay, and to reduce the amount of standing water.
Prewash prep
Bag during
As for the cleaning process, use a strong APC, degreaser or traffic film remover of your choice (I used Power Maxed TFR @20:1 - it's cracking stuff). I applied it liberally, let it dwell, then agitated it with a wheel brush (great for tight areas and down the side of the strut towers/engine) and a detailing brush. Then I just rinsed it off with a hose, dried off the standing water with some old cloths, put the battery back in and let it idle for 5 mins to dry the rest of the bay. Then I dressed the hoses and plastics with Autoglym Vinyl Rubber Treatment and gave any metal surfaces a quick wipe over with some wire wool. Took about 30 mins total, and then naturally it poured with rain, preventing me from getting on with the exterior.
Bay after
Bay after 1
Bay after 2
Bay after 3
Bonnet after
I also noticed a few fraying fibres in the cloth seats, so just trimmed those off with some scissors to make it a bit more presentable.
Seat before trim
Seat after trim
The engine bay was grim. Not a huge space to get filthy or any huge vents/scoops/grilles to allow dirt in so it's far from the worst in the world, but it needed a spruce up all the same. Here's what I was working with:
Bay beforeBay before 1Bonnet beforeThis was far from any real sort of detailing - didn't even bother removing the airbox to get at the head, mainly just to get it looking presentable and so your hands didn't become black from simply checking the oil. I first removed the battery to give it and the tray/fuse box a proper clean, then wrapped terminals, vulnerable connectors, and the alternator in cling film to protect them. The fuse box is sealed so not worth worrying about, and the location of the air intake means it is also not worth protecting - if yours is in a location that water could ingress into then just block it or wrap it in a bag or clingfilm. I also tend to cover the top of the engine when cleaning under the bonnet too, just to reduce the volume of water entering the engine bay, and to reduce the amount of standing water.
Prewash prepBag duringAs for the cleaning process, use a strong APC, degreaser or traffic film remover of your choice (I used Power Maxed TFR @20:1 - it's cracking stuff). I applied it liberally, let it dwell, then agitated it with a wheel brush (great for tight areas and down the side of the strut towers/engine) and a detailing brush. Then I just rinsed it off with a hose, dried off the standing water with some old cloths, put the battery back in and let it idle for 5 mins to dry the rest of the bay. Then I dressed the hoses and plastics with Autoglym Vinyl Rubber Treatment and gave any metal surfaces a quick wipe over with some wire wool. Took about 30 mins total, and then naturally it poured with rain, preventing me from getting on with the exterior.
Bay afterBay after 1Bay after 2Bay after 3Bonnet afterI also noticed a few fraying fibres in the cloth seats, so just trimmed those off with some scissors to make it a bit more presentable.
Seat before trimSeat after trim
Soldato
- Joined
- 22 Aug 2004
- Posts
- 7,606
Hoo cookeh, too work. Will be sad to see it go!
I’ve enjoyed your suffering as unfortunately I can relate. I used to do a minimum of 2K miles a month, I had the choice of two cars each morning, a mapped 06 Leon Sport PD140 DSG capable of 50-60mpg and a Y reg Fabia 1.4mpi with 68bhp with manual everything and *two* buttons in the entire car excluding the radio that did 41mpg all day, every day. More often than not, I took the Fabia, other than the savings, it actually needed to be driven.