CoolIT Systems - 240mm ECO info

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Hi Everyone,

This is Barry w/ CoolIT Systems. I've been getting quite a few requests for a 240mm version of ECO and am pleased to let you know that we have one in the works for you all.

I just wanted to get a little thread going on here to get a feel for

1. who is interested
2. who of the people who are interested have a chassis that one would fit in (you need 2 x 120mm fans side by side in roof ideally)
3. your price, performance and acoustic expectations

I think there is a real need for this for system builders so we'll be going ahead regardless but we want to make it clear that we are listening to the needs of the market so if you ever wanted a chance to offer some feedback to a manufacturer before everything is finalized... this is it.

Cheers,

Barry
 
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I would have been interested before I decided to go custom WC, this is a good move :)

Although my chassis (Antec p182) doesn't have two top fans - one top and one rear (at the top, PSU is bottom-mounted) so from my point of view it would be a big plus if it were possible to engineer it to fit either 2xtop or 1xtop and 1xrear.

Should be quieter than top-end air coolers (shouldn't be too hard I would imagine); can be £10, maybe £20 more expensive if the performance is there - which it should be, i.e. it should be able to comfortably take the performance crown.
 
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Good man. I'd be interested if I hadn't moved to "true" watercooling months back, I've got such a large pile of pumps and radiators now that it would be mad to buy more :)

It would fit easily in my Akasa Omega. Other candidates are the Silverstone TJ07 / TJ09 / TJ10, the Lian Li m-atx cube, HAF 932 and the huge Corsair case. There's a fair few out now which have mounting holes predrilled for a 240mm radiator. Biggest issue is that the distance between the cpu socket and these mounting holes is widely variable. Approximately 8" tubing for my particular case.

Price to the end user of a standard, thin 120mm radiator is approximately £25, and a thin 240mm approximately £40. As such people should expect at least £15 more than the eco. The cheapest off the shelf diy loop would be 40 for the radiator, 30 for cpu block, 30 for a pump, 20 for other, so £120 in total. So I think you have to be able to bring it to market for £70 to £120. I'm confident that you've already performed this reasoning yourselves, an end user perspective might be useful regardless.

Acoustics for a given C/W are dictated entirely by fin density and fans. The industry standard is 10 to 15 fins per inch for 60mm thick radiators, up to 30 fpi for 30mm radiators. The 60mm thick radiators cost significantly more to manufacture but allow far lower rpm fans to be used effectively. Shrouds are very important for improving performance in watercooling, and so many people just don't bother with them. As such building in a gap between fan and core will considerably improve the performance of the radiator (by forcing everyone to use a shroud) while costing you very little. Just got to keep the overall thickness low enough that it still fits in as many cases as possible, good luck judging that one. I'd personally go for an asymmetric shroud.

As for performance expectations, I'll have a better idea when my eco turns up and I run it in series with another thin 120mm. You should halve the water-air temperature difference but leave the processor to water delta unchanged. As a very rough and ready estimate, the coolit eco is getting a roughly 50 degree overall delta, about 30 of that is probably down to mounting/interface losses, so a 240mm radiator should take about ten degrees off the processor temperature.

We've been calling for a 240mm version since we first saw the H50. Good for Coolit. Cheers for making this thread Barry.
 
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This will be interesting to see although i have a antec 1200 so have 2 1200mms on the back.

Think its a good move i'm happy atm with my h50 but this could be worth the change.

Will this be the exact size of 2 120mm fans? or abit bigger.
 
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Hi Barry,

Yes a 240mm rad would be great, will certainly help the cooling efficiency. If you could make it with two fans similar to the Akasa Apache that would be great (as they shift a good amount of air, but only at 16dB).

Maybe you could to a added peltier "Extreme" version for the overclockers here ;)

Oh, maybe improve the mounting system as to be honest the Corsair H50 mounting system IMHO is much better then yours.
 
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I would probably be interested, i wouldnt mind if it cost a bit more than top air coolers as long as it would be fairly quiet and better performance :)

I remember looking at the corsair H50 but wasn't that bothered with it as they didn't have a dual rad version which i think should make quite a difference, though im not sure how much a difference in temps it would make?
 
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I think like has previously been mentioned, If it has built in shrouds and is about £15 more than the current setup it'll sell. I am looking at a single loop setup at the moment, and Id think the ease and results and price would have to be pretty good to make me buy it over something that I have more control over for only £20-30 extra
 
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just reading a thread on on here
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/629298-mod-corsair-h50-240mm-radiator-5.html

guy modded his h50 with a 240 rad and got 10degrees cooler, also asetek (the makers of the corsair h50) have done a 240mm rad version but the rad isnt as good as the swiftech one... so to be aware, id make sure the rad was of better quality than that of the corsairs or it wont be worth much as home modding will be the same cost difference for better temps
 
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promising indeed, but the thing that scares me about the h50 now, is if it fails you've got a hefty bill on your hands where as a custom kit going down, only 1 part will need replacing.. as well as the fact that in your own custom build you can spec it a bit better no doubt and get even lower temps for a very similar cost after all this modding ecT?
 
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haha just glanced the thread again Jon... im not sure but I think the guy's h50 actually died with the 240mm setup! looks like the pump couldnt take it maybe?
 
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"
some terrible news tonight fellas

the pump died on me... i dont know how or why but it just wont pump any water. this happened when i took the loop apart to add the T Loop and when I started it back up it wasn't moving any water. i took it apart again and tried it with the original rad in the stock config and nothing

shes a goner and im really sad. I enjoyed modding this and it has lots of potential. i dont know what i am going to do now... probably gonna use my back up noctua nh up12 cooler for a while until i want to mess with the h50 again or get a megahalem or delve into legit water cooling.

ahhh this sucks
"


boo :*(
 
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There's a
function ;)

Besides, while admittedly the pump probably shouldn't fail because you've upped the loop resistance, you've also introduced contaminants of varying description that could've contributed to pump failure. While good as a DIY project, you can get much better results building the loop yourself - while being able to replace any one part if it fails - than modding a custom-made 'sealed' unit.

Regardless of whether you can eke out a few more degrees performance by modding this dual-rad loop to use a different radiator, ultimately next-to-no-one is going to do that. People would buy this system to just use, because it has better performance than top-end air cooling. If they want even better performance, in the main they will build their own loop - I would hazard a guess it actually takes more expertise to mod the H50, or one of these, than it does to build a custom loop, so it's a nobrainer unless you're doing it for your own entertainment/bragging rights.
 
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The new one should use quality parts even if it costs a bit more, i would rather something like this which is easy to set up, zero maintenance and if the temp is within range say only 2-3c difference over custom water i would much rather buy it.

Nobody managed it with external coolers yet either like the koolance exos etc, cant understand what could be so hard for them to do it right?
 
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Hi Barry I would like to buy 240mm as this is the best news I ever had. It will fit in my antec 1200 case using 240mm on top of the roof. I shall look forward to it.

Thanks Barry.
 
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Now if it can take my CPU to temps that aren't possible on air cooling, but for a fraction of the price of a bespoke setup, count me in.

I also have a P182, and although there's a lot of room in there, no 2 fans are next to one another. There is, however, provision for tubing to be routed outside the case through pre-drilled holes. The rad can then be mounted outside the case! The only problem here is, is that it requires dismantling the apparatus...
Not sure how possible a modular system would be in this circumstance.
 
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