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D-Bot creation thread

Discussion in 'Printers' started by xxalxx, Jun 30, 2016.

  1. bulb66

    Wise Guy

    Joined: Jun 12, 2005

    Posts: 1,569

    Location: Suffolk

    Will do, I have read some of it but thought I'd ask those that have build one for tips.

    @Uncle Petey, Your printers looking great. Can you share any words of wisdom re hardware etc.

    J.
     
  2. Uncle Petey

    Capodecina

    Joined: Jul 22, 2012

    Posts: 14,927

    Location: London

    Thanks Bulb.
    I'm not sure what to tell you tbh.
    My shopping list linked in the OP should help with finding parts. Anything else, just ask :)

    I'd also say to go with whatever controller electronics you're already familiar with.
     
  3. bulb66

    Wise Guy

    Joined: Jun 12, 2005

    Posts: 1,569

    Location: Suffolk

    Yeah already started building a shopping list, I guess just any advice on printed parts. Do I just print those in the thingiverse link or did you use a different set? What is your finished build volume 300 x 300 x ?

    Thanks,

    J.
     
  4. Uncle Petey

    Capodecina

    Joined: Jul 22, 2012

    Posts: 14,927

    Location: London

    Yes, build volume is around 300x300 using a mic6 bed. Maybe check out ecocast aluminium plate as a cheaper alternative if you're going this way.

    If so, I'd definitely recommend mounting the lead screws at the front+rear using these offset brackets.
    I'd also consider using his Z platform arrangement, as I found several other types (including the stock system) to be annoying and unreliable with a large, heavy bed. Saying that, I haven't tried his setup, but it looks good and is probably the next best thing to a sliding rail system.
     
  5. bulb66

    Wise Guy

    Joined: Jun 12, 2005

    Posts: 1,569

    Location: Suffolk

    I think I'll print and build as standard 300 x 300 and then where needed add/upgrade parts. How much filament did you lot use in making the parts, what infill, shells, layer heights did you use?

    J.
     
  6. Uncle Petey

    Capodecina

    Joined: Jul 22, 2012

    Posts: 14,927

    Location: London

    All the stock parts were made by a dude on 3D hubs, so I have no idea :D
     
  7. Uncle Petey

    Capodecina

    Joined: Jul 22, 2012

    Posts: 14,927

    Location: London

    I'd recommend not going with the stock or 3 wheeled Z carriages if you're doing a four corner 300x300 build. While it's doable and will work, it's really isn't ideal unless you've got a really lightweight bed in mind.
    At the very least, use those offset leadscrew brackets on front and rear. They help massively with balancing the platform vs the standard position at the sides.

    As for recommendations on printed parts, I'd say to go with at least 3 perimeters / 0.2 height and the most infill your choice of filament can print well with.
     
  8. bulb66

    Wise Guy

    Joined: Jun 12, 2005

    Posts: 1,569

    Location: Suffolk

    Ok I'm going to do a LOT of research before deciding on what parts to print.

    While I'm doing that I'll do some test prints of different settings to find the best for the parts I end up going with.

    Can you post some more pictures of your printer or if you have some, somewhere else link me. Also why does having the Z rods on the front and back make a difference? Isn't it a cube and therefore they would be the same whichever side they are on?

    J.
     
  9. Uncle Petey

    Capodecina

    Joined: Jul 22, 2012

    Posts: 14,927

    Location: London

    I'll see if I can sort out some pics later, though there's not really much to see that you haven't already. Also, it's sitting in my spare room, which doubles up as a gym/utility/storage/junk space and that means I might have to tidy up or even redecorate :o :D

    I'm not sure why the leadscrews work better in that position. Maybe because it's easier to find the midpoint and/or it's because they attach directly to the rails that have the carriages at each end and this makes it more difficult for the platform to tilt.
    Either way, it just works better. It was immediately noticeable as soon as I made the switch - and this was before I went with linear rails.
     
  10. bulb66

    Wise Guy

    Joined: Jun 12, 2005

    Posts: 1,569

    Location: Suffolk

    OK, having had a better look today at your pictures and the thingiverse link I think I understand it and it makes more sense. Having watched a video recently talking about high infill vs more shells I'm going to do a test print of a part at around 50% infill and 5 shells.

    J.
     
  11. Uncle Petey

    Capodecina

    Joined: Jul 22, 2012

    Posts: 14,927

    Location: London

    Should work.

    IIRC, the position of the wheels on the rail makes it more likely to tilt forward/backwards. Having the leadscrews at those positions helps to prevent it from happening vs at the side, where they can act as a kind of seesaw pivot.
     
  12. Lakeland

    Soldato

    Joined: Nov 1, 2005

    Posts: 5,443

    Does anyone know how a cr-10 and a dbot would compare?

    I don’t really need another printer but I’m quite interested in the idea of building one and customising as I build.
     
  13. bulb66

    Wise Guy

    Joined: Jun 12, 2005

    Posts: 1,569

    Location: Suffolk

    Hey,

    So I currently don't have either but planning on building a d-bot and that is your first difference, the d-bot is a fully build yourself printer (buying all of the parts can take a while and can cause confusion). The CR-10 is a few screws and its built printer.

    The d-bot is a CoreXY and the CR-10 is a cartesian style printer, from what I've seen the CR-10 is actually a good machine and can be made better with a few simple upgrades, the d-bot will need time and money spent on it as you'll be making sure things are square and wiring the electronics etc.

    I'm going for a d-bot because I want a bigger machine and one that will last me a while (upgrading along the way). I will be using parts from my current printers to make the d-bot and only buying things I don't currently have, this is because I have to many printers not being used, going forward I will have the d-bot for my FDM work, the Kudo3D Bean for SLA work and I'm going to convert my Printrbot Metal Plus into a laser cutter for the danger and pew pew stuff ;-).

    J.
     
  14. Lakeland

    Soldato

    Joined: Nov 1, 2005

    Posts: 5,443

    So you think a dbot could be a better printer?

    I have a cr-10 and love it but I’ve moved in to a smaller office and could do with something a little smaller footprint wise. I could mess with the cr-10s control box and mount it under the printer but if I start that game I think I’d rather do a new super quiet and compact build!
     
  15. bulb66

    Wise Guy

    Joined: Jun 12, 2005

    Posts: 1,569

    Location: Suffolk

    Both printers can be as good as each other, with the right parts that is. They could also be as bad as each other, with the wrong parts, lol.

    I wouldn't think a d-bot with the same build volume as a cr-10 would be much smaller to be honest.

    I'd actually try hiding/attaching the cr-10 electronics to the frame to make it smaller. It would mean making your own mounts and thinking about how to do it, which I like the sound of.

    J.
     
  16. Lakeland

    Soldato

    Joined: Nov 1, 2005

    Posts: 5,443

    I think it’s just the shape of the dbot is better, none the cr-10 needs so much depth.

    I’ve got a wire extension kit so mounting the box underneath should be fairly easy, I’ve went to order the extrusion a few times but it’s quite expensive so I’ve sacked it off quite a few times!

    I like the idea of making a near silent printer with a magnetic bed. With a printer already in the house I guess I could take my sweet time and buy bits here and there so it goes unnoticed ha.

    Is it easy enough to modify the bed size? I’d quite like something tall and rectangular rather than a large cube like the cr-10.
     
  17. bulb66

    Wise Guy

    Joined: Jun 12, 2005

    Posts: 1,569

    Location: Suffolk

    Can't decide if I should go full linear rail or not, lol.
     
  18. Lakeland

    Soldato

    Joined: Nov 1, 2005

    Posts: 5,443

    They’re probably more susceptible to misalignment issues but nice if you get them right.

    I wonder what the friction is like? Could they limit jerk and acceleration in X and Y axis?

    I’d probably go down the traditional route and spend the coin on a tasty rails/bearings, heated bed and accurately cut frame.

    I’m trying to save space with my idea and I’m probably just going to end up with more printers lol..
     
  19. Uncle Petey

    Capodecina

    Joined: Jul 22, 2012

    Posts: 14,927

    Location: London

    In XY, they're probably very good IF you spend the extra on the real deal Hiwin stuff, otherwise you likely will have friction related issues.
    As I mentioned earlier, the cheap knockoffs are only decent on Z if you have a heavy bed that overcomes that problem + it's not like Z has to move like XY.

    If I could justify splashing the dosh (and I used my printer more than I currently do), I'd definitely put quality linear rails on XY.
     
  20. bulb66

    Wise Guy

    Joined: Jun 12, 2005

    Posts: 1,569

    Location: Suffolk

    Yeah I don't want to spend to much, the plan is to actually use parts from my other printers to build the D-Bot (after printing the parts of course, lol) and only buy what I don't have, like the metal, the fixings and a few other bits. Not a budget build I will buy bits if I need/really want them but I trying to reduce the number of printers I have (6 currently, with an SLA printer coming soon).

    I'm just printing out some of the parts that are needed no matter what at the moment.

    J.