Ender 3V2 bltouch+JyersUI firmware game changer

[tlrBeta]

Sounds like you are good. So just playing with the bed now. My bed can give crazy 2mm difference left to right until i get it in the sweet spot zone.

Make sure the eccentric nuts are done up 'just' enough to remove wobble. Too tight and they wear out rapidly, meaning you will get slop back quickly.

Thanks again,

Its clear the back left corner (where the cable connects in) is my main issue now - I will play with the nuts a little more to see if that helps. I can't be the only one who has had this though Any trick to getting resolving that corner?

 

[Chaos]

If you think your bed is warped you could try using some tape as a shim.

 

[davegt3]

sorry to jump on the thread could someone offer some advice on my g code settings.

ender 3 v2 with bl touch, jyers 3x3

current g codes are as follows

start g code

; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code

G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder

G28 ; Home all axes

G29 ; Mesh

G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed

G1 X4.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position

G1 X4.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line

G1 X4.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little

G1 X4.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line

G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder

G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed

G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish



end g code

G91 ;Relative positioning

G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit

G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z

G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out

G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more

G90 ;Absolute positioning



G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} ;Present print

M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan

M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend

M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed



M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z

 

[bulb66]

sorry to jump on the thread could someone offer some advice on my g code settings.

ender 3 v2 with bl touch, jyers 3x3

current g codes are as follows

Do you have an issue? They seem ok to me.

 

[davegt3]

I’m not 100% sure that it is actually using the mesh levelling during printing having a lot of issues with the height of the first layer

 

[bulb66]

It should be assuming the firmware is set up correctly. The G29 probes the bed and then enables mesh compensation.

 

[davegt3]

Yea it probes the bed before every print so should be ok then hopefully. I will try re levelling and try again

thanks

 

[Flippy]

You probably need to adjust your Z offset, teaching tech has a good video about that https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fN_ndWvXGBQ

 

[tlrBeta]

Hi All,

Just an update, i have got the bed a little more level. Just going through the process of Z offset.

With the bench tests, it seems i can get one square almost perfect but the next is too high or catches etc. I have included a picture of my better effort, the next didnt print the middle square.

Is there a definitive way of ensuring the Z axis is moving as required? I can't believe its this difficult to use :/

Spoiler: Images

 

[Flippy]

Your BL touch should be compensating for the difference in the bed. Are you running G29 in the start gcode?

 

[tlrBeta]

Your BL touch should be compensating for the difference in the bed. Are you running G29 in the start gcode?

Yes I am, I just still get some issues. I'm lead to believe BL Touch has limits....maybe I'm too far over these limits?

Might be time to dump this Jyers firmware, try the Creality own - if that doesn't work, well time to bin the thing!

Here is current Mesh view:

Highest is at +0.05

Lowest is at -0.04

 

[tlrBeta]

Even better bed level but print failed after the first square and just amassed round the nozzle.

I do believe the Z axis is moving, just still fails to print properly

Spoiler: Bed image

 

[bulb66]

Even better bed level but print failed after the first square and just amassed round the nozzle.

I do believe the Z axis is moving, just still fails to print properly

Spoiler: Bed image

So your trying to print on bare glass, it will need to be spotlessly clean for it work right, have you tried a layer of glue stick? Why aren't you using the other side?

What temps are you using?

 

[tlrBeta]

So your trying to print on bare glass, it will need to be spotlessly clean for it work right, have you tried a layer of glue stick? Why aren't you using the other side?

What temps are you using?

Thanks for your reply.

To be honest, I flipped it up to use the glass due to these issues. It shouldn't be a problem to flip it back, which I can try this evening.

Temps are - Bed 65, PLA 185-200 (lower value to stop it streaming out).

 

[bulb66]

Thanks for your reply.

To be honest, I flipped it up to use the glass due to these issues. It shouldn't be a problem to flip it back, which I can try this evening.

Temps are - Bed 65, PLA 185-200 (lower value to stop it streaming out).

Looking at your print, the bed is level the I think it more of a bed adhesion problem.

Bowden setups do ooze a bit but PLA temps are normally in the 195-215 range, maybe it's running hotter than it should, what firmware are you currently using?

 

[tlrBeta]

Looking at your print, the bed is level the I think it more of a bed adhesion problem.

Bowden setups do ooze a bit but PLA temps are normally in the 195-215 range, maybe it's running hotter than it should, what firmware are you currently using?

Let me flip the bed back over and do the Z offset again.

I'm using the Jyers Bltouch 3x3 - v2.0.1. It seems that anything above 190 and its just making more a mess then anything, particularly when printing of course.

I was considering going back to a Creality own firmware, again troubleshooting things.

 

[bulb66]

Let me flip the bed back over and do the Z offset again.

I'm using the Jyers Bltouch 3x3 - v2.0.1. It seems that anything above 190 and its just making more a mess then anything, particularly when printing of course.

I was considering going back to a Creality own firmware, again troubleshooting things.

I have no experience with Jyers firmware, did you configure it, or was is a pre compiled file? It could have the wrong thermistor and/or need a PID tune.

 

[tlrBeta]

I have no experience with Jyers firmware, did you configure it, or was is a pre compiled file? It could have the wrong thermistor and/or need a PID tune.

There is a PID auto tune.

It seems I make some progress, then it all falls apart again - I have some squares printing perfectly, a couple of with curly corners / not printed correctly. Then, next print, no squares printing at all. So I'm do the create a mesh again and now I see the values and things have moved.

Its either the bed, the gantry or something else. Again assuming, BL touch cant compensate for the differences

 

[bulb66]

It won't hurt to run a PID tune, do it from room temperature and see what if it approves with the oozing.

Ok firstly with changing temperature the bed mesh will change but your numbers are tiny 0.03 is nothing.

Curling corners is an adhesion problem, what you mean by "not printed correctly" and no squares printing at all? Can you post pictures?

 

[tlrBeta]

It won't hurt to run a PID tune, do it from room temperature and see what if it approves with the oozing.

Ok firstly with changing temperature the bed mesh will change but your numbers are tiny 0.03 is nothing.

Curling corners is an adhesion problem, what you mean by "not printed correctly" and no squares printing at all? Can you post pictures?

Morning,

So I may have made some progress here. I did the tune (again), flipped the bed and whacked the PLA temp up to 210.

My bench prints have actually been fairly successful - I hopefully won't jinx it. I'm currently running the 3d boat benchy through again. Photo of the 1st attempts below, ignore the bits of dust:

Spoiler