Filters, where do I start?

Devrij · 14 Nov 2011 at 19:23

I hear that polarizing filters are a must for landscape photography, but I have no idea what is too cheap to be worthwhile, or what is good enough for someone starting out. I'm currently using an 1100d with the kit lens so its not exactly top notch glass to mess up with a cheap filter. Can anyone recommend an affordable (but not completely rubbish) filter for a 58mm lens?

Also, besides polarizing (I'm told circular is the best?) What other filters should I consider to expand my range?

SMed · 14 Nov 2011 at 20:14

Definitely get circular.

I wouldn't spend much on a CP for the kit lens. Chances are you will be upgrading to a better lens with a larger diameter. When I had my kit lens, I got some cheap generic CP and it was fine, I just loved the effect, and didn't really notice a drop in quality. But when I bought a cheap generic CP for my 24-70L - BIG mistake. It was terrible.

For the kit lens, a £20 CP should be fine, IMO.

Devrij · 14 Nov 2011 at 20:21

SMed said:
Definitely get circular.

I wouldn't spend much on a CP for the kit lens. Chances are you will be upgrading to a better lens with a larger diameter. When I had my kit lens, I got some cheap generic CP and it was fine, I just loved the effect, and didn't really notice a drop in quality. But when I bought a cheap generic CP for my 24-70L - BIG mistake. It was terrible.

For the kit lens, a £20 CP should be fine, IMO.

Cool, that's what I was hoping. I'm just trying to get a feel for what different equipment does before I invest in any high quality stuff.

a1ex2001 · 15 Nov 2011 at 08:26

Devrij said:
Cool, that's what I was hoping. I'm just trying to get a feel for what different equipment does before I invest in any high quality stuff.

I'd go slightly more expensive and get a Marumi either the DHG or the DHG super if you can afford it.

Gaffer · 15 Nov 2011 at 10:04

Devrij said:
Can anyone recommend an affordable (but not completely rubbish) filter for a 58mm lens?

IMHO, the filters to consider are:

Circular polariser. This gives you better blues in the sky and helps you see through sparkling water. It need to be a circular polariser because a linear one will mess up the camera's auto-focus. nb: circular refers to what it does to the light, not the shape of the glass.

ND10. A very, very dark filter. Enables you to take long exposures in daylight, to turn water to glass and waves to mist. These are rather expensive in larger sizes and can be difficult to find.
Some folk round here have used welding glass to achieve the same effect but welding glass is green, not grey.

You might want an ND grad for landscape, to tone down the sky whilst leaving the land untouched.

Andrew

33L · 15 Nov 2011 at 10:40

just to note a circ pol on the kit lens will rotate on focusing so you will have to achieve focus first then adjust to the right requirment.

DanF · 15 Nov 2011 at 11:08

Gaffer said:
Circular polariser. This gives you better blues in the sky and helps you see through sparkling water. It need to be a circular polariser because a linear one will mess up the camera's auto-focus. nb: circular refers to what it does to the light, not the shape of the glass.

Just out of interest is it just AF that it affects? if I was using an MF lens on a digital body would a linear be fine to use?

#Chri5# · 15 Nov 2011 at 12:49

Gaffer said:
IMHO, the filters to consider are:

ND10. A very, very dark filter. Enables you to take long exposures in daylight, to turn water to glass and waves to mist. These are rather expensive in larger sizes and can be difficult to find.
Andrew

Indeed. I've had a Lee Big Stopper on order for about three months now. The company I've ordered it through told me Lee aren't taking any more orders for them at present as they have such a backlog to clear.

D.P. · 15 Nov 2011 at 14:22

DanF said:
Just out of interest is it just AF that it affects? if I was using an MF lens on a digital body would a linear be fine to use?

yes