How to Mount a Direct Contact Heatpipe cooler [Titan Fenrir]

bulldog147 · 1 Jul 2009 at 14:57

rick fowler said:
nope still hitting 90c+ even doing it the way rich has in photo so theres gotta be something a miss somewhere,idle temps are 43,41,45,41 room temp is 22c pretty cool in here really

is it worth going watercooled if so is it hard to do?

Go and get Thermalright Extreme 120 !! These are the best and far too good for rubbish Titan Fenrir as I don't like direct heatsink as it really annoying me with 7 times to re-apply paste and temperature still getting 90C !! I try thermalright extreme 120 with a thin layer paste on the cooler mirror flat before insert into cpu processor. Temp getting better at under 67C full load with 4.20Ghz using titan fenrir fan. (with delta fan 4000RPM get me temp down to 60C)

JonJ678 · 1 Jul 2009 at 15:10

I'm convinced. No direct heat pipe coolers for me.

Watercooling isn't difficult as such. It's expensive in research, time spent assembling, and cost of components. I suspect it's also quite easily to get a hideously unbalanced system, I'm sure I don't need 3 radiators but as Ive bought them I feel compelled to use them

shadowscotland · 1 Jul 2009 at 15:56

Bubo said:
0.5mm higher than the other ones?? Instant return if that had been me, that is ridiculously out of tolerance for something which relies so heavily on heat pipe contact. Yes it has become clear trying to lap out defects such as this is a non starter. No purchase for me, even if I wasn't water cooling.

Agree with the instant rma it the case above with a different cooler
From what i've read the fenrir has a reasonable base - Only point I was making is don't lap this type of HS.

But if I only had £30 to spend on a cooler a direct touch is the type I'd buy.
Instead I spend £300+ on a passive all copper water loop

Big.Wayne · 1 Jul 2009 at 18:56

rjkoneill said:

Talk about going from one extreme to another! :eek:

IMO that is waaaaaaaaaaay to much TIM holy ****

While its true that TIM is a better heat conductor than air (i.e gap) you also can't forget that metal (alu/Cu) is a far superior heat conductor than a jam sandwich!

If using a fairly flat solid base heatsink (i.e TRUE) you can plop on about 1/3 of the TIM used in the first pic above and it will get spread well by the mounting pressure.

If your using a Direct-Touch Heat-Pipe style heatsink then you apply the TIM directly to the base of the heatsink and not the CPU-IHS . . . I've tested this myself and you get a much more even spread and better bond!

Best Thermal Paste Application Methods - benchmarkreviews.com
20 April 2008

setter · 1 Jul 2009 at 19:07

I used the spreading with cling film method on my previous q6600, due to it and my TRUE being lapped, tiny blob in the middle then spread it out. On my current q9550 i went with the line method and let the hs spread it out, still deciding wether to lap this new cpu or leave as is.

Big.Wayne · 1 Jul 2009 at 19:16

shadowscotland said:

That's an interesting pic!

There is a lot to be said about Direct touch heatsinks but I don't like the gaps and the strange TIM application method. I think if they made a huge single heatpipe it would be better or perhaps a few smaller ones but with no gaps, just flat heatpipes butted up against each other. . . .

byron_hinson · 1 Jul 2009 at 20:18

Now I'm cacking myself as I ordered the bundle today and want to make damn sure i get it right first time as I'm pretty much a novice when it comes to putting my own heatsink onto a CPU as I'm generally used to stock coolers.

AgedIdiot · 1 Jul 2009 at 22:51

Interesting & helpful thread :cool:

Will look to re-fit my Titan cooler (on Q9550) soon trying the fill in gaps between the channels and then a thin skim approach and see if it cools better than the simple thin layer spread by credit card on cpu I'm currently running.

It runs pretty well already (about 2c less than Tuniq Tower I was using) but if it will do better still , why not?

Admiral Huddy · 2 Jul 2009 at 10:05

This may help

http://www.huddysworld.co.uk/index....g-tim&catid=40:techie-talk-hardware&Itemid=72

byron_hinson · 2 Jul 2009 at 17:49

Anyone tried the method for the OC bundle yet?

breadturbo · 2 Jul 2009 at 18:01

Admiral Huddy said:
This may help

http://www.huddysworld.co.uk/index....g-tim&catid=40:techie-talk-hardware&Itemid=72

thats how i do mine on the old775 boat, bring back winter and 17c idle

AMG · 2 Jul 2009 at 18:03

I just spreaded a thin a layer on the CPU and made sure it was all covered than fitted the heatsink (this case titan fenir) only getting 40c ideal.....see in spec for CPU

BSmith · 16 Jul 2009 at 01:24

What about the Noctua cooler? I'm getting my new stuff tommorow, and need some guidance.

TAC4U · 16 Jul 2009 at 05:12

I'm using the Fenrir but am getting 50C+ idle and 100C+ on full load, even after reapplying the thermal paste according to the topic. I've had a quick look at various coolers but the CoolIT Freezone Elite looks a bit extreme for my needs, not to mention a bit pricey. I could always go for another go at reapplying it but that involves taking the motherboard out and it's a lot of effort to end up with the same results. Then again, something's not right.

Biffa · 16 Jul 2009 at 09:08

How many volts are you putting through the CPU?

TAC4U · 16 Jul 2009 at 14:27

I believe it came configured at 1.3 but I turned it down to 1.275 to reduce the temps, and it shows up at 1.25 in CPUZ. It's stable during gaming but the high temps from Prime95 bring it down, hence why I want to address the issue.

davetrace1 · 30 Jul 2009 at 20:30

The titan fenrir is a very good cooler though. I was reading a custom PC magazine and they reviewed 20 CPU coolers across all processors and the titan came on top for all intel proccesors including the i7.

bulldog147 · 30 Jul 2009 at 21:32

I avoid the titan fenrir as my H50 is far too good for this one !

WiPPaH · 7 Aug 2009 at 10:14

rjkoneill said:
there have been many issues from customers experiencing high temperatures with their bundles

the problems are occuring due to people using a small amount of thermal paste.

when installing a normal cooler such as a Thermalright Ultra Extreme/Prolimatech Megahalems etc
this is fine:

the flat contact plate spreads the thermal paste evenly

with the Titan Fenrir/Akasa Nero, you need to get rid of the air pockets.
the only way to do this is to use more thermal paste than you would with a flat contact plate

an S shape on the IHS may seem like overkill but it does work better with direct contact coolers

you also need to bear in mind that the arctic silver TIM needs time to cure before it starts working well

also make sure the mounting hardware is as tight as possible to ensure good heat transfer

I dont suppose you still have these images rjkoneill? I picked up a pre-overclocked bundle from ocuk and my temps are causing reboots. I figured it was the paste - so these pictures would be really handy.

Thanks in advance

OLDPHART · 7 Aug 2009 at 16:53

Why buy TIM that need's 200HRs to cure and settle, when you can buy TIM's that don't need curing, MX-2 for one. Personnally l couldn't, when l finished building my PC>OC it to (Q6600)3.2GHz ACF 7 PRO> at present idle AV=36c / load AV=55c my living room's quite warm at the moment even with windows open.