Hows my watercooling going? Pics inside.

[Felix E]

An order arrived the other day with Feser1 and tubing etc.. so I set about beginning my setup. It's day 2 and well I haven't got very far, but I have made a bit of progress...

Firstly I decided to take everyone's advice and not bother with the thermochill block that I bought secondhand, instead I've ordered a Fuzion as I managed to find them in stock somewhere.

Meanwhile I've got my pump and some tubing in place:

That is the outlet on the right isn't it? That tubing runs down inside my case into a t-line which has a DD Delrin fillport on one end - which I've poked outside of my case at the bottom - to be used for draining.

The rad I've only secured on one side with 4 screws from the outside of the case, as it didn't line up fully with all of the existing holes and I don't have a drill. will that be ok? It feels secure.

The next step is to connect the vertical tubing coming off the t-line to my block, and then block>rad>res>pump.

Oh and on my res, as said I don't have a drill so my current plan is to err duck tape it to the top of my dvd drive or below it to the bottom of the drive bay. I seem to remember something about it needing to be at the highest point in the system? Can I fill it while it's high but then tape it down a bit lower?

Lastly, would it be ok to lap my CPU with say 200 grit wet and dry before jumping to 800? I used my one sheet of 400 lapping the cpu block that I'm now selling. I've had to move onto coarser stuff and that's all I can get without going out of my way..

Thanks for any help,
Felix

 

[DaveMac]

The pump inlet in on the right, if you look on the plexi at the side of the barbs there is an I for inlet and O for outlet marked.

The t-line drain will reduce flow as you have it currently, if you re-arrange it so the perpenicular barb feeds the drain keeping the main flow straight through it will minimise the loss.

Res doesn't need to be at the highest level, depending on how the loop is arranged it may make filling easier. I ran my cylinder res on the case floor next to the pump.
mavity has little effect once the pump is running.

Rad will be fine with 4 screws on a steel case.

Going from P200 to P800 mean you'll use more P800 as the scratches will need more work to get out, but will still do the job.

 

[Felix E]

Thanks for that! Answered everything

I'll re-arrange things a bit tomorrow then, I just hope I don't run out of tubing.

Felix

 

[mrthingyx]

For lapping the CPU, 200 --> 800 won't be a problem as DaveMac said: you may wind up using a bit more 800grit, but...

Looks good so far, Felix!

 

[Felix E]

For lapping the CPU, 200 --> 800 won't be a problem as DaveMac said: you may wind up using a bit more 800grit, but...

Looks good so far, Felix!

Cheers mate! I've just been making the necessary changes this morning and was hoping to get to the leak test stage.. unfortunately I ended up with not enough tubing to connect my block to the rad It was going to have a massive kink in it. I've just ordered some more tubing.. so hacked off right now!

Oh also I assume it doesn't make any difference which barb you use on the rad for in or out?

Felix