LG 48CX OLED - 4K 120 Hz

Soldato
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East Sussex
Microfiber cloths are good too, just be gentle and don't press too hard and dampen the cloth with water for anything more stubborn..
 

TNA

TNA

Soldato
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13 Mar 2008
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London
I use a product called Ecomoist Natural Screen Cleaner with Fine Microfiber Towel. Been using it for years on my monitors, phones, iPads and used it twice so far on my OLED TV. Not had any issues and it does a good job.
 
Associate
Joined
3 Aug 2021
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39
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Germany
Just because I ran into it on Reddit, have given the LG TV Companion a try.

https://github.com/JPersson77/LGTVCompanion

This is very nice but only half-usable for my scenario.

After going through the steps, enabling the WiFi remote turn on option on the C1 despite it being connected through RJ45,
I did the test and it turned off. Suspended my machine to disk yesterday evening and the screen automatically turned off,
as expected. That's a win in my book.
It did turn on as well but only after Windows initialized it. Sadly that's not working out for me because I have two screens
hooked up via DP plus the 48C1 via HDMI as my main screen, but moved the task bar under Win10 off to another screen on
the side. With every change, the task bar position resets to default (48C1) and on top of that it puzzled all my open windows
and they had to be rearranged.

If the TV is your only screen it'll work.
If you've got your task bar on that screen it'll work.
If you send your machine to sleep like I do have have windows spread out on multiple screens, it'll likely scatter them.
I'm not sure if Win11 solves this in a different way and compensates, but my MonitorKeeper doesn't catch it.
https://github.com/hunkydoryrepair/MonitorKeeper

There's another TV nearby and setting the ID on the device only helps after they've been turned on. Otherwise the power button
on the remote keeps triggering both unless you play peekaboo with the receivers on the TVs.
 
Soldato
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London
No way around this unfortunately - power button is IR-only. The majority of other buttons on the Magic Remote are IR and switch to RF if the remote is paired.

Try running a lab with 90+ TVs :p
 
Associate
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Location
Germany
No way around this unfortunately - power button is IR-only. The majority of other buttons on the Magic Remote are IR and switch to RF if the remote is paired.

Try running a lab with 90+ TVs :p

Yikes! Although if there is a remote power option via IP, this could be solved via app or CLI.

This has been one of the main things bugging me. Another is having user defined presets.
I'd like to keep the screen in gaming mode at say OLED brightness 25 and then quickly switch
to 69 or 80 when playing a game that needs to pop more as easily as using favourites for HDMI 1 2 3
or whatever app by holding down 4 on the remote.
 
Soldato
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6,311
Location
London
Yikes! Although if there is a remote power option via IP, this could be solved via app or CLI.

This has been one of the main things bugging me. Another is having user defined presets.
I'd like to keep the screen in gaming mode at say OLED brightness 25 and then quickly switch
to 69 or 80 when playing a game that needs to pop more as easily as using favourites for HDMI 1 2 3
or whatever app by holding down 4 on the remote.
Agree with all that. I find the picture modes/settings quite unintuitive and long to navigate, so I often settle for poor settings. Doesn't help that I do everything - broadcast TV, streaming apps for films and TV, PC gaming, YouTube.

And the number key shortcuts are great! Got my own app buttons.
 
Associate
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39
Location
Germany
Is anybody else running into grey flicker at 120Hz?

I'm noticing it on my C1 when there are big portions of the screen uniformly (dark) grey.
Say I'm using Telegram and receive a video. It opens the thing in fullscreen but doesn't maximize the
video, rather than giving it a big grey frame. The video itself runs fine but that grey frame keeps flickering.
Going through the settings has shown me the same behaviour at 120 and 100Hz while 60 looks fine.
As soon as I maximize the video in that grey playback frame it's fine as well.
I've seen this with different programs as well, just can't remember them. Another example I can recall
is Ryzen Master, which refreshes at a high rate while the rest of the screen remains rather static. It looked
flickery as well.

This is new to me, have only gotten my 3080 two weeks ago and had just driven the C1 at 60Hz.
Otherwise it's set to RGB, full range, 10bit and things seem fine. No sudden black frames, picture cutting out
or anything like that. The cable should be good. It's a MOSHOU - HDMI 2.1 (3 m) / HDMI [email protected] [email protected] /
UHD HDR 10+ Dolby Vision Dynamic 3D eARC HDCP 2.2 CEC Ultra High Speed with Ethernet

I can only imagine it's either a setting or by design and I'll have to accept it. It doesn't happen often, this is
rather nitpicking.

_______
I'm stupid. That's probably a G-Sync side-effect. Funny though how I only noticed it after
switching to 120Hz.
 
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Associate
Joined
3 Aug 2021
Posts
39
Location
Germany
Had a go at phone apps and ran into Smartify: LG TV remote control by Kraftwerk 9 Inc.
Download, pair, hope, but the next day when I wanted to turn the TV on it told me it couldn't find any devices.
Well DOH it was turned off. m( That's not how this is supposed to work.
iOS search has become very weird. I would have expected LG ThinQ up there in the first results,
but only found it by googling and running into a tutorial video.

Setup is too annoying. It requires an account, which I haven't bothered pairing with the device BTW,
just paired the phone to grant access.
mAkE aN aCcOuNt!
i WaNt yOuR _eXaCt_ loCaTiOn!1
bUt BlUEtoOtH!1

BT remained off. Exact location once, then just generally and only when the app is open, no, I don't want push notifications.

It works though. The TV is in there, I renamed it to something shorter, can just pick it in the overview,
then hit the power button icon and that's it. I only wish the app had a dark mode.

It would probably work with those 70 TVs in the lab but I imagine one would get lost in a sea of icons
and get burnout from scrolling.

Now if only I were able to get the LG companion on PC to only act on shutdown and ignore reboots.
Or I've done something wrong, except for once on reboot it shut the TV down every time.


-------
Second day of turning it on via ThinQ - it works. Nice.


That pesky issue about the audio mode not sticking and reverting back to AI gaming.

The gaming subsettings for Std, RTS and what ever else there was, on the right side
of that menu there is a Game-Optimizer button, it's a button, not just saying Game-Optimizer.
In there you can do fine tuning, one of which is a toggle called Sound - AI-GameSound or
something like that. My menu's in German. Once turned off it doesn't force that mode anymore.
I must have been blind all this time.

And it looks like LG doesn't care. AI-GameSound is turned off in the Gaming Mode settings but still keeps reverting.

I tried Apple's HomeKit, added the TV but neither Siri via voice command nor just hitting the button on the control center screen do anything. That's some messed up design. I can turn the TV off but not on again.
So ThinQ it is. That works realiably.

Since the black screensaver after 2 minutes keeps bugging out because various apps just block it, I looked into the LG Companion settings again. In the additional options under advanced power
there's an automatically blank option. Default is set to 10 minutes, I dropped it to 2. That works
out. The screen just blanks after those 2 minutes without input. You'll just have to wiggle the
mouse when playing games or watching a video on the screen. There's always something.

I've meanwhile tried playing older games such as GTA V. Back then they didn't have more than
60FPS in mind it seems. VSync on or off, it's flickering left and right. In the LG onscreen menu
I keep FPS jumping between 120 and 40 randomly. Hitting ALT R for the nV display keeps showing
a steady 59FPS without moving a bit. Setting VSync to half seems to make it better.
Otherwise I'll have to drop to 60Hz before starting games and see if that makes a difference.
Is this a common problem? Am I imagining things?
 
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Associate
Joined
22 Jun 2005
Posts
984
Hi all!
Made a post before seeing this thread. I am joining the club with my 48 c1 coming this week!

Since there are 186 pages, can I ask for a TLDR on the following:
Wall mount - is there a particular one that works best for both minimizing depth & allowing for adjustments to use as a TV in bed etc?

This monitor will be my primary WFH screen in my bedroom and is perfectly placed to be used as a TV in bed..but would want the ability to slightly adjust/move it.


I'll be combining this TV with a macbook pro 16 m1 pro worklaptop + a windows laptop. Anything I should be considering in terms of cables etc to make sure I can get the highest refresh rate?

Anything else I should consider?

Thanks!!
 
Associate
Joined
7 Apr 2021
Posts
61
I can only imagine it's either a setting or by design and I'll have to accept it. It doesn't happen often, this is
rather nitpicking.

_______
I'm stupid. That's probably a G-Sync side-effect. Funny though how I only noticed it after
switching to 120Hz.

It's a well known side effect of Gsync on these TVs. Turn G-sync/VRR off and it should go away.
 
Soldato
Joined
6 Jan 2013
Posts
18,469
Does anyone use this monitor for productivity and would mind sharing their settings? I want to use mine like a multi monitor setup by using all the screen real estate by splitting etc. Also looking for the best scaling settings.

Is there an app that does this? Hope I've explained well.

TIA
 
Associate
Joined
20 Feb 2006
Posts
145
It seems mine could have a serious issue, I got mine on 6 January 2021. Had ZERO issues until now. I've been getting weird blank screen flashes and now more serious static screen followed by black screen and then normal again, I was recording a video stream via screen grab last night. I heard a static pop as the screen flashed millions of tiny dots like signal loss, then blank, and back to desktop ( this happened 4 times over 30 mins). My video grab was still recording, But after playing back the video, no interference/loss was recorded.

I'm wondering if this unit could have a PSU board issue, like previous recall models.
I've contacted LG, As it's only just over a year old. It's frustrating as the TV could go 2 hours without issue and then go bad constantly until turned off.

I've done a GPU mem stress test/bad memory on my 3080ti, no issues.

Any ideas?. Anyone else had this, or heard of this.
Thanks
 
Associate
Joined
3 Aug 2021
Posts
39
Location
Germany
It seems mine could have a serious issue, I got mine on 6 January 2021. Had ZERO issues until now. I've been getting weird blank screen flashes and now more serious static screen followed by black screen and then normal again, I was recording a video stream via screen grab last night. I heard a static pop as the screen flashed millions of tiny dots like signal loss, then blank, and back to desktop ( this happened 4 times over 30 mins). My video grab was still recording, But after playing back the video, no interference/loss was recorded.

I'm wondering if this unit could have a PSU board issue, like previous recall models.
I've contacted LG, As it's only just over a year old. It's frustrating as the TV could go 2 hours without issue and then go bad constantly until turned off.

I've done a GPU mem stress test/bad memory on my 3080ti, no issues.

Any ideas?. Anyone else had this, or heard of this.
Thanks
What makes me go hmm is the pop you mentioned. Normally when you're seeing an issue but the recording is fine, it's coming after what the GPU is putting out.
Cable can go bad for whatever black magic reasons. Tried just changing that or lowering the settings from say 120Hz 10bit to 60 and possible 8bit just to see if it makes a difference?
Tried a different HDMI input on the TV?

What is pointing towards a screen issue is those 2 hours without a problem and then it'll go bad. Can you establish a pattern that would confirm a thermal issue? What's your environment like?
Here it's suddenly become Summer, ambient has gone up. Put a desk fan against the back and see if it makes a difference :D Also, what does your use case look like? Would hammering the screen
with HDR content shorten those mentioned 2 hours? All this can be easily independently tested or confirmed by running say Netflix HDR content via WebOS app for a prolonged time.

And luckily no. *knock on wood* Only issues here are grey G-Sync flicker and sound automatically turning back to AI mode, but I'm rarely using that anyway. I haven't had my screen for a full year yet
though.
 
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