Locking hell!

Soldato
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10 Jul 2010
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6,304
Don’t use WD40. It’s for freeing up seized threads, it’s not a lubricant. It just makes everything sticky. Use GT85. Its what the National Locksmith School and Guild of Master Locksmiths recommend. And it’s cheap as chips.
All is well for me so far. But annoyingly I also have a can of GT85 which I could have used. :D
 
Soldato
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All is well for me so far. But annoyingly I also have a can of GT85 which I could have used.
:D

Then spray some in now. WD40 is a penetrating oil designed to get in between threads and allow you to turn them. GT85 is a dry lubricant in a spay solvent carrier. When you spray it on the carrier evaporates and leaves the PTFE (Teflon) on the surfaces to lubricate them. Because it’s dry it doesn’t atttract dust or bits of ground up insects and spiders. GT85 is the locksmiths best friend.
 
Caporegime
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22 Nov 2005
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45,271
Ordered some from screwfix. Worth a punt at £7 when a new lock is around £90.
You can get GT85 in wilko for £3.60
in store it will probably be with the bicycle accesories.

it's a spray lubricant with PFTE that doesnt leave a sticky residue so doesn't catch dust and dirt

I use it as a polish for my bicycle frame and use a kitchen towel to rub any excess off, I can rub my frame with a finger after and it doesn't smell like the spray but looks shiny and brand new.
 
Associate
OP
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25 Nov 2017
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352
Thanks for all the advice chaps. I took the handle and lock off and gave the mushroom, hooks and gearbox as much of a spray with the ptfe as I could without removing more from the door. Glad to say it works as smooth as anything now. Nice and easy operation.

Only downside is I managed to spray PTFE lubricant all over my wall... luckily the hall is stripped down ready to paint. So hopefully a light sanding will sort that.

Thanks again!
 
Soldato
Joined
10 Jul 2010
Posts
6,304
Thanks for all the advice chaps. I took the handle and lock off and gave the mushroom, hooks and gearbox as much of a spray with the ptfe as I could without removing more from the door. Glad to say it works as smooth as anything now. Nice and easy operation.

Only downside is I managed to spray PTFE lubricant all over my wall... luckily the hall is stripped down ready to paint. So hopefully a light sanding will sort that.

Thanks again!
Good work, you'll know what to do next time. You sound as pleased as I was when I "fixed" my windows with WD40. :D
 
Soldato
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21,906
having investigated/ already lubed the lock gearbox - I think door misalignment maybe contributory to my front door stiffness when extending the bolts.

has anyone adjusted one of these - I can't find exact lookalike on youtube videos eg Fitting Guide - Butt Hinge Adjustments
there is a hex bolt on top, nothing to turn on the bottom of the butt
two hex bolts above and beneath centre grub screw, these hex bolts are also accessible on the other side of the hinge butt

QUESTIONS
the movement of the door with the top bolt is subtle - it maybe adjusting compression of door into frame ?
if the other two hexes adjust the alignment of the door in the frame, i'm not sure how you adjust them in tandem, along with those on other 2 hinges further down door ?
(you'd create a lot of wear on the hinges if they aren't aligned - how do you avoid that)
I'm not sure the grub screw plays any role - maybe for removing pin ?


door outside is black closing towards the viewer into the frame

52112352469_28950caf96_o_d.jpg
 
Soldato
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Norfolk, South Scotland
If you want to change the alignment then it may need shimming. It‘s the easiest thing in the world if the have a box of shims and two experienced people to do it. Get someone in. It’ll be £50 tops.
 
Soldato
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shims are not the tool for the job with modern hinges, just like wd40 isn't appropriate
they have internal adjustment you could make yourself, & like mine, if the door locking is stickier when in the frame you just need to know how to adjust them
 
Soldato
Joined
13 Jul 2005
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19,286
Location
Norfolk, South Scotland
shims are not the tool for the job with modern hinges, just like wd40 isn't appropriate
they have internal adjustment you could make yourself, & like mine, if the door locking is stickier when in the frame you just need to know how to adjust them

It’s not the hinge where you put the shim. Its not the door that has changed shape, it’s the frame because the house moves. But please, explain to the OP how to do it and we can all learn.
 
Soldato
Joined
1 Mar 2010
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21,906
door outside is black closing towards the viewer into the frame

52112352469_28950caf96_o_d.jpg

eventually found a thread discussing these hex head, for door trueness in frame -
they give just 180degrees of rotation and the dot, on bolt head at 3oclock is mid point point, 12oclock is max door movement left & 6 inwards ...
however trying to adjust mine they are very stiff and some of bolts heads already crumbling from previous owner, may try some plus-gas easing spray.
 
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