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Madass 155cc Project tidy up

Discussion in 'Biker's Cafe' started by Kermit, Mar 9, 2020.

  1. Kermit

    Mobster

    Joined: Oct 27, 2002

    Posts: 2,794

    Location: UK

    Thanks for replies. A few new updates....I really should take more pics while doing each thing but I get carried away and forget till its done :p

    Fri 27th/Sat 28th March

    Front caliper is looking a bit poor (mainly big chips to other side of this pic) so have decided to spray that. Pic taken mainly for reassembly purposes
    [​IMG]

    At the same time as spraying the front caliper, I flattened the top yoke that had a few pits/poor finish and gave it another few coats and its now fitted. For now I'll put up with the silver/gold bar risers but may replace them in the future with black anodised items if I can find some that suit
    [​IMG]

    I also loosely fitted the front headlight/clocks/switchgear and apprehensively turned the key on....the clocks came on which is good although not conclusive as to whether I have all the wires in the back end correctly connected


    Carb fitted and new air filter fitted. Despite looking at many types, this is the same type as the old one as it was the best combination of fit, style and cost
    [​IMG]

    Thats about if for today as the cooler weather today makes working in the garage less fun :(
     
  2. Kermit

    Mobster

    Joined: Oct 27, 2002

    Posts: 2,794

    Location: UK

    Sun 29th March 2020

    Resprayed Caliper and mounting bracket
    [​IMG]

    Refitted - hoses loose at present, not sure if using current brake line or if I need a slightly shorter on
    [​IMG]

    Kick Starter reattached
    [​IMG]

    New Levers/Master cylinder
    [​IMG]

    Bit of a snag with this one....I didn't realise the old LH switchgear was integral with the lever so for this side I'll need alternative LH switchgear without lever...probably £20-25
    [​IMG]
     
  3. Kermit

    Mobster

    Joined: Oct 27, 2002

    Posts: 2,794

    Location: UK

    Tues 31st March 2020

    Fitted the footpegs & gear lever

    [​IMG]

    Other footrest, kick starter and rear brake.

    Considering the size and only 3 parts (+ a washer) on each footpeg, I'm not going to state how long it took me to figure out the spring orientation to get them pegs to snap down correctly but lets just say >1 hour and more than 5 visits to the garage and checking close ups of some of my previous pictures
    [​IMG]


    Note - battery/electrics cover removed as the loom as about 3-4 inches too far backwards for current RH switchgears connector to reach its connector at the front end of the loom. Had to loosen 2 and remove 2 bolts from the main black suspension/engine mount which just about allowed me to pull the loom forwards a suitable amount...it was tight but my worry was I'd not have been able to move the loom without removing that mount totally (incl rear suspension/engine) as the rear part of the loom is wedged very tight between that black mount and the frames main beam...phew

    Some new parts are due tomorrow, LH/RH switch gear and specific nuts/bolts and 6/9 pin connectors as looks like I'll have to redo the connectors on at least one side of controls to fit it.
     
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2020
  4. deuse

    Capodecina

    Joined: Jul 17, 2007

    Posts: 20,173

    Location: Solihull-Florida

    How did I miss this.

    Looking forward to updates :)
     
  5. Kermit

    Mobster

    Joined: Oct 27, 2002

    Posts: 2,794

    Location: UK

    Weds 1st April

    New parts ordered Mon night, packed and dispatched yesterday, arrived today...not bad given the current situation

    • LH/RH switchgear + 9 pin connector/pins to suit as current loom has 6 pin connector + 2 bullet connectors for RH switchgear
    • lower head race bearing cover (old one was missing) but might hold off on fitting for now as cba to remove yokes again
    • disc bolts
    • top yoke bolt
    • brake banjo/nipple
    • + a new front mudguard (not pictured) given I managed to smash the original one up removing the front wheel

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2020
  6. Yaayuh!

    Capodecina

    Joined: Nov 5, 2010

    Posts: 19,899

    Good work!

    What's the biggest engine these take? I've seen a 190cc 23hp one. Must be a hoot!
     
  7. Kermit

    Mobster

    Joined: Oct 27, 2002

    Posts: 2,794

    Location: UK

    No idea, I haven't checked but I guess 190cc sounds about right for the engine format/layout so I'm quote pleased with finding one with 155cc although as is my customary way when I do a rebuild, I stripped and started the rebuild before riding it :p

    think this will be rebuild #5 although its been 3 years or so since I've done one. If I remember correctly the order of my rebuilds/second project bikes are, Honda VFR400 NC30, an XR250, CRF450R (not really a full rebuild), a Yamaha TDM850 and a Ducati Monster 750. I'll try dig out some before and after pics.
     
  8. Kermit

    Mobster

    Joined: Oct 27, 2002

    Posts: 2,794

    Location: UK

    My current keeper, a CBR929 which I've had about 10 years now although did have a new Red/Blue/White one when they first came out

    As purchased - It was a friends track bike
    [​IMG]

    Transformed it back to road spec within 6 months or so and not had to do much to it since other than new Brembo master and the usual service parts/tyres
    [​IMG]

    Honda NC30 as purchased (needed that spare engine)
    [​IMG]

    NC30 part way through restoration (this was my favourite/best restoration, almost no expense spared)
    [​IMG]

    NC30 getting there, first shake down run
    [​IMG]

    NC30 complete....or so I thought so until..
    [​IMG]

    NC30 I found a red/black fairing
    [​IMG]

    TDM850 - this wasn't so much a rebuild as a getting it running then getting it running well...bought as a non runner
    [​IMG]

    CRF450R - this was similar to above, get it running right and a bit of a tidy up although I did splash out on a nice Yoshi system for it
    [​IMG]

    XR250R - from this
    [​IMG]

    XR250 - to this
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  9. Kermit

    Mobster

    Joined: Oct 27, 2002

    Posts: 2,794

    Location: UK

    So all in all this simple Madass should a breeze but I'm concerned about my ability with the electrics :p
     
  10. Kermit

    Mobster

    Joined: Oct 27, 2002

    Posts: 2,794

    Location: UK

    Sat 4th April 2020

    New Front Mudguard Fitted
    [​IMG]

    Exhaust Fitted
    [​IMG]

    LH Swithgear Needed 6 Pin Connector removed and swapped for 9 Pin - before
    [​IMG]

    LH Swithgear Needed 6 Pin Connector removed and swapped for 9 Pin - Midway
    [​IMG]

    I forgot the final pic with crimped ends inserted into 9 pin connector

    It runs....amazingly :D
     
  11. Malt_Vinegar

    Don

    Joined: Oct 20, 2002

    Posts: 15,173

    Location: In a house

    Good.work!

    See, electrical stuff is not that hard :D
     
  12. tom_e

    Man of Honour

    Joined: Dec 26, 2003

    Posts: 26,834

    Location: West mids

    Nice work :)

    I don't mind electrical stuff in general it's trying to get wiring neat and tidy that I just can't handle, when I used to build my own pcs it always looked like a rats nest never mind how much I tried :o
     
  13. Kermit

    Mobster

    Joined: Oct 27, 2002

    Posts: 2,794

    Location: UK

    I'm not out of the woods yet as now it doesn't start :(

    But this is only because I've started and am currently failing to fit & re-wire new RH switchgear which came with 9 pin (+ 1 bullet connector wire) instead of the old one which had 6 pin connector and some loose wires....this is where I struggle, 3 wires I could probably cope with, 8/9 + diagrams and my brain starts to frazzle :p

    RH Switchgear

    Started to put wires in place but fairly sure I'm wrong already
    [​IMG]

    Explanation of RH Switchgears Wires
    [​IMG]

    Wiring Diagram
    [​IMG]

    Is anyone good at this sort of thing and could help me create a GR -> GR, B/W -> B/W type for each of the wires?
     
  14. Malt_Vinegar

    Don

    Joined: Oct 20, 2002

    Posts: 15,173

    Location: In a house

    Happy to give you a hand. Pinged you an email with my number for WhatsApp. :)
     
  15. Kermit

    Mobster

    Joined: Oct 27, 2002

    Posts: 2,794

    Location: UK

    @Malt_Vinegar - I appreciate the trust message and offer to help but perhaps not tonight as I have some help on another bike forum from a regular on there whose sorted me out some pen and paper Gr/W -> B, B/W -> G typing wiring to try out (with some caveats about having some spare fuses handy :p) so I'll go over that first, give it a go and see how far I get. Had a busy day at work (from home lol) so I don't think it'll be tonight but will likely give that a go tomorrow after work, see how far I get and if I get stuck or perhaps close without the cigar, I'll get be touch :)
     
  16. Kermit

    Mobster

    Joined: Oct 27, 2002

    Posts: 2,794

    Location: UK

    Sunday 26th April 2020

    Progress at last as I've been stalled a few weeks with the electrics for the LH and RH switchgear but pretty much got that sorted now and I expect to be done within a week now :)

    This picture taken Saturday as I did intend to roll it outside to work on the electrics in the sunshine but didn't get much past the rolling it out, faffing around for an hour or so and rolling it back in
    [​IMG]

    I did however find the time to take a couple of nice shots of it
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Today, after a good amount of faffing about I managed to finished the connectors and get the headlight on
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Have one small issue and can't figure out the cause but with the clocks small bulb for the indicator light (one for both sides) fitted, when putting on left or right indicator, both side flash like with hazard warning. If I remove the bulb the indicators work properly again in relation to the switch. I can see the clocks indy warning bulb has both O(range) and LB (Light Blue) wires to it on the wiring diagram and these along with common GR(ey) are the same wires that go to the indicators so can't figure out why both started flashing both together. For now I've rectified the issue by removing the bulb as I don't really need it anyway
     
  17. Katoom

    Wise Guy

    Joined: Jul 29, 2006

    Posts: 1,730

    Sweet.

    Same engine as my old pitbike.
    A good carb like a 4T keihin pe 28.
    64mm BB kits are easy to fit. (177cc on that bottom end)
    V2 heads are great.
    Easy to waste money! lol
     
  18. Malt_Vinegar

    Don

    Joined: Oct 20, 2002

    Posts: 15,173

    Location: In a house

    I suspect that you have a system where the dashboard indicator light is designed to be incandescent as the indicators were also designed to be incandescent.

    Incandescent bulbs work both ways (electronically speaking) and I think my old cbr125 was the same. When I had LED indicators, an incandescent bulb in the dash broke the circuit by allowing flow in both directions.

    I made it work by soldering two smaller LEDs together with a shared earth, and adding a third dedicated earth cable to the bulb connector to solve the issue.

    Take a look at the second half of this post on my CBR rebuild to explain it in more detail :)

    https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/posts/32516919/
     
  19. Kermit

    Mobster

    Joined: Oct 27, 2002

    Posts: 2,794

    Location: UK

    Thanks, I will look into that although I have bought a LED specific relay which itself makes my indicators flash correctly
     
  20. Malt_Vinegar

    Don

    Joined: Oct 20, 2002

    Posts: 15,173

    Location: In a house

    Yup, that's right, but the dash bulb being designed for incandescent breaks the way it's supposed to work :)
    If you do something similar to what I did in the past above you get to keep the dash light working as intended :)

    You essentially make led 2 bulbs in one housing, one for left and one for right work separately with a shared earth, as they only work in one direction (as they are a diode)