MODZERO JUICE - NFC SYSTEMS S4 MINI #80 (FINISHED 13.12.17)

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I think there may be a case of mistaken identity here?! I have not done any vinyl for you. Maybe its Davedree you're looking for, similar username?

Thanks for the software name though, I'll check it out :)

Sorry buddy, It because I cant see the avatars when replying, for some odd reason my brain decided you were Davido_Labido.

I'd be interested to hear what you think to the software.

J.
 
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Getting on well with ArgusMonitor so thanks for the recommendation. Synced all case fans to GPU temps and its performing well. I was stuck with a strange combo of 2x intake fans on the cpu opt via a splitter and synced to CPU temps, then 1x exhaust fan on a sys fan header (no idea what temp was being monitored) which never really got very warm so I couldn't control its speed easily.

Will probably end up buying it once the 30days are up :) Its a shame the Gigabyte boards we have don't talk to speedfan but at least you found another option!
 
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UPDATE 3.0

Things have moved along a little further so I'm back again to share my progress. A few things have happened since update 2.0. NFC hooked me up with a couple extra side panels for whats coming up next, I bought some EK Monarch blocks for the RAM (not they'll be WC'd) to provide a little extra height between the DIMMs and the PSU.. lets start there, RAM.

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I'd never removed the heat spreaders from RAM before... years ago back when all RAM came naked, I added heat spreaders a time or two but never this way round. It was easy enough, I used a low temp on my heat gun and gently warmed up one side of the RAM at a time. Once warm I slid plastic card (like a gym or library card) in under the heat spreader. Repeated that a few times and off they popped.

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They look much better now.

The majority of my free time over the last couple weeks has been spent on the wiring. I mentioned last time I'd intended on replacing the stock (thinner AWG) wires with new cables made with thicker 18AWG black wire. Well that turned into an epic battle between the function vs aesthetic gods..

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Oh, I put the cooler back on the GTX1060, it's a much tighter fit but the cooling (mainly noise) is so much better for it. I'll look at tarting it up a little down the road. The odd thing is.. the orange on the cooler matches the orange on the 960 EVO drive. As they are, the only two components you see on that side of the chassis, it sorta works... as is... But I guess we'll see.

But anyway, you can see the 6PIN GPU cable. The stock HDPLEX cable is yellow/black 21 AWG (not sure...) wire with a single 8-PIN at the PSU end and a 6+2 x2 at the other. Strapped up, fitted, you could barely see the new cable.

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But then things started to get complicated, well, crowded. I made the 8PIN EPS which turned out okay considering it had to bypass the 24pin to be routed correctly. However the 24pin is where the battle truly begun. The thicker AWG added a lot of bulk compared to the stock HDPLEX cable (if you were to simply cut the stock cable to length). I reassembled the build and booted her up. everything worked a treat. But they really ain't much to look at..

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So the war begun.

I don't know who struck first, wire or sleeve. But we know that is was me that scorched the ends

Bare black wires certainly look better then the HDPLEX cables but it's not much of a build without some sleeved goodness. Firstly, I had decided I had plenty of room to sleeve the EPS and GPU cables. I also took the HDPLEX power connector cable desoldered the stock wire, replaced with new wire and sleeved them.

ATTEMPT TWO:

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I hated this when I did it*. the EPS cable looked smart, clean, the cable combs made a color combo work and pulled your focus. But the 24pin looked fat and untidy. I didn't like that the power switch red cables popped as they were much shorter then the others. I knew I didn't have enough room to sleeve all 24 but felt as the positioning would hide the others, sleeving a few would add something.

*annoyingly, looking at it now. I kinda like it.


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The EPS was different, half the wire needed to remain bare in order to pass under the 24pin to get to its PSU connection. It was the pattern I didn't like. I love the colors, the chassis pulls cues from certain 'M' class BMWs with it's estoril blue paint job. The sleeve was picked to highlight aspects of the motherboard (the red DIMM and PCI slots) and to further that BMW scheme connection. The colors are a combination of the brand logo and the 'M' logo. So first time round It looked like this, a repeating pattern. But with only 8PINs it's too much and with only 6PINs for the GPU and 4PINs on the power cable.. I could not repeat the same pattern.

So it didn't last.

ATTEMPT THREE:

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I swapped the red switch sleeve for black and took the color out the 24pin. I went with 3 black to cover the bare wire beneath and one gray to pull in the Noctua Redux fan. I also redid the EPS wire (I didn't take a better photo...) I needed a pattern based on 4 wires, something I could repeat on the GPU and power cables. So I did. The EPS became gray, blue, light blue, red. With the remainder in black.

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I repeated the same for the GPU to match the EPS. At this point, had gone with 2x blue 2x grey on the power cable. It was getting there, but I still didn't like it. The 24pin still looked fat and untidy, I liked the use of combs on the GPU cable and was happy I'd found a pattern I liked but by matching the EPS it meant that you mainly saw the grey, red, black wires on the GPU cable when really you could only see the grey, blue, light blue on the EPS. So they looked totally different.

So it wasn't to be.

ATTEMPT FOUR:

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I had to do something about my fat untidy 24PIN. The main problem I was/am having is the 24PIN sits higher on the mobo then it's bottom edge on the PSU. So the cut lengths have to allow for a bridge type bend in the middle, A: to allow the PSU end to connect lower then the mobo and B: to run that 8PIN EPS under it.

So this time round I thought I'd sleeve four cables all black on the 24PIN to hide the wires underneath. I also trimmed a few to drop the high point on the cluster of wires. I bound them to pull them in tight under the sleeved cables above.

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Which worked (for the most part).. it dropped the 24PIN cluster enough to make the 4PIN power cable (now grey, blue, light blue, red pattern) sit above it.

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I also took the GPU cable and flipped it, so the pattern would show more of the blues. Added more combs to the GPU and power cable then reworked how the power cable routed through the chassis to the PSU.


and that's where I'm at... do I like it? no. Do I like it better then the previous attempts? sure. I don't really like the look of cable combs and don't feel my runs are quite on point. But I keep telling myself it's not finished.. I've got the back plates coming and the frame side panel to come, then a glorious tempered glass pane to finish it off. So for now, I'm leaving it. I need to move forward with those two bits. Once they are in, If I still don't like, I'll try again. It's all a process.

Thanks for checking it out. What do you think? Should I go back to bare wire? try a different color combination? rework the lengths? or do you like it?

J.
 
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Things could be far worse than what you have right now, but after 4 attempts I think it's a woods-for-trees situation, so come back to the wires once the project as a whole is further along.

The only thing I can think of is to go totally opposite thinking and make more the cables. Rather than trimming and tucking them away, run them across the length of the board, flowing around the CPU cooler and back up into position, and it shouldn't conflict with the EPS you already have in place. That 4-pin can then sit more neatly next to the RAM then without being squished into a mass of black.
 
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That's a good point. To hide the wiring it's either got to be invisible (or blend in) or hide in plain sight - ie be made a feature of.
For me I'd either ditch the red or the blue - though I understand where the colour theme came from. Ditching the blue would mean respraying the panels so that's likely a no go but if you ditch the red, you probably need to paint some of the red things on the board like PCI-E retention. On the other hand, I known nothing about colour....my wife tells me so every time she wants to re-paint/decorate/arrange things. Maybe it's the red and grey that don't go together.

I was going to suggest not sleeving the hidden cables but you've already got that covered. Is it worth looking at the amp ratings for each wire and seeing if any can be thinner without detriment?
 
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UPDATE 4.0

Back again with another little update. Not a great deal has progressed over the last couple weeks (mad how quickly these weeks seem to fly by) my other half is unwell, and caring for her is slowing things down. Which, in this moment, made me think of this scene from Monty Python the Holy Grail... start at 0:50.

https://youtu.be/grbSQ6O6kbs?t=55


Hahaha, so, whats cracking. well, a few things. Firstly, I'm redoing all the cables. But I'm doubling up rather then starting over. Which meant another visit to E22.

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I've bought enough terminals and wire/sleeve to make a second 24pin. I had an idea to separate the two rows of 12 wires, dropping one row down, to run along side the other. It's difficult to visualize but I think the end result could be good. keeping the bulk of the 24PIN down at the floor of the chassis. It's just an idea, we'll see how it turns out. If it's a success and I'm left with enough supplies I'm going to make a second (third if you count the factory HDPLEX cables) set of EPS and GPU cables. I'm pretty happy with those as they are, but whilst I'm waiting on some of these other bits (I'll cover them a little further down) it's nice to stay busy. Plus, I'm going to drop the red from the sleeve pattern and maybe the lighter blue too.

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The extra two side panels turned up (Thanks again Josh) in a textured black powder coat (which I really like). But it's gotta go. A buddy has a homemade sand blaster set up in his garage (he uses it to engrave and sell slate souvenirs), he thinks he can strip the powder coat with relative ease (I'll take some pictures when he goes it, let you know how it goes).

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Once stripped, I'll be sending both panels down to the wonderful B-NEG for some special attention. Dan is going to CNC the middle section of the panel and and cut the mounting points for the glass. I'm currently working on the CAD for this, although it's not going that well. Fingers crossed, the blasting will happen next week and I'll be able to get the panels off to NEG in time for his next visit home.

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I had been on the fence with this one.. originally I'd wanted to fit a small 12x2 display into the Alu wrap-around of the chassis. The inner chassis frame has a perfect cut out for this directly behind the GPU and if you were so skillfully inclined you could pull it off. Only I've gone with a GPU that is at the upper limits for the S4 Mini to house comfortably and to mount such a display directly behind such a GPU, whilst possibly, maybe, possible... it would certainly have a knock on effect to your thermals, perhaps damage the display too (pretty sure they are rated <60'c).

So what to do..

Well, I bought a bigger one. THIS ONE to be exact. I know I've already mentioned it, but if you're in the UK, the guys over at Kustom PCs do a bang up job. They have a truly great selection of products. I used one years back on a build I'd done in the Silverstone FT03.

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They are great little displays and very easy to program. I was looking at the layout of the motherboard and spotted the internal USB header is placed just below the PCI slot (the display is USB), and once I've put the glass side panel on it's not as though this build has lots of epeen watercooled glory to behold. so I thought..

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The USB header is directly beneath it, making connecting it simple and clean. The module is the exact width to nicely fill that space between CPU and GPU too.

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Mounting it should work out pretty well too. I plan to use the 120mm fan mounting holes above the IO. I'm working on the design atm (I'll share my designs in the next update). The plan is to frame the display, with the mount also framing the the Noctua cooler (on two sides). That should nicely hide the IO and cover the nasty green PCB on the display. I'm working on the mount being made from 3mm ALU which I'll powder coat along with the side panel frame to match the rest of the internal powder coating. If it all goes to plan the mounted position of the screen will run flush with the GPU once that has it's custom back plate.

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That's it for now. I'm hoping as my other half continues to recover I'll be able to put more time back in to this, I'm pushing to have the CAD work finished in the coming week so I can finalize dimensions for the mounts on the glass. I'm attending Insomnia 60 in April and this is coming with me.. so ultimately that's the completion goal.

Hope you enjoyed this little progress report, I'll come back soon with designs for you guys to give me some feedback on.

Cheers

J.
 
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UPDATE 5.0

Nothing too exciting folks, life has been hectic but I wanted to touch base and share the little news I've got. With Insomnia 60 (LAN) just a couple weeks away it seems I'm not going to finish this build in time. Which is disappointing but fine. I'm not letting anyone down, it's not a show piece and it'll still be coming with me.

I'm still to send the side panels down to B NEG for some CNC love and until I do that I can't finalize dimensions for the glass. But it's all in hand and we'll get there.

So what have I gotten done.

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Ricardo over at COLDZERO (check em out if you've not already) hooked me up with the backplate mock up (top left, above). Which I'm pretty much happy with. Think I'll drop the NFC logo from the backplate and put it elsewhere. Maybe add a little 'sponsored by' or 'powered by' to proceed the E22 and GIGABYTE logos.

You can also see, I've pretty much finished the bracket design. The original was intended to be ALU (and it may go back to being so if this doesn't work out) but I had a thought, why not have it match the backplate. So I reworked the design and sent it over to Ricardo.

All being well it'll have the same design vents as the backplate running along that chassis mount side (to help clear the air kicked up from the CPU heatsink and should fit just about flush with the GPU. Fingers crossed those two bits will be with me before LAN.

In other news, we've finalized the design for MODZERO JABBA (the next project), that'll be coming this summer. Can't wait to show you guys!

This weekend I hope to remake my cables, so I'll report back then. :thumb:

J.​
 
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these small cases are getting really small now. love this, it reminds me of the JR23 watercooled custom parvum case thing.

expensive aswell... £200...

this looks awesome and 2 months ago i might have considered getting one apart from the waiting time.
 
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UPDATE 6.0

Multiplay Insomnia Gaming Festival 60 is but days away! JUICE was always earmarked for competition in time for this event. It is after all, primarily my new LAN rig. That wasn't to be, with a number of speed bumps along the way, sadly JUICE won't be finished in time for LAN. But it will be coming..

Oh yes, I present, MODZERO JUICE STAGE 1.0...

or at least I will present it a little further down... sorry.

JUICE is running off a single 960 PRO 256gb NVMe drive, I'd not intended to add anymore storage. But will all my games installed on two 250gb SATA SSDs in my main rig and LAN being so soon, I thought about how best to make use of those SATA SSDs.

So I bought one of these..

I thought, I'd pull the two drives from my other rig, label them and hot-swap between the drives as and when. But, I had visions of losing a drive or disconnecting it when in game. So I went a different route.

The NFC S4 MINI can mount two 2.5" drives in front/behind the GPU. Yet I'd previously written this mounting option off for three reasons.

  1. Knowing I was putting a toasty GPU in there I'd always thought the SSDs would get cooked
  2. The HDPLEX molex/sata power connection on the PSU was tucked in tight at the back of the chassis partially under the motherboard.
  3. I'd not seen anyone else fit the drives and do a cracking job of the power/sata cable routing.

Challenge accepted.. :rock:

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Firstly I took my two drives (two different drives) and covered the backside in matt black vinyl. Mounted them on the cage then proceeded 'to throw all the toys out the pram' when I couldn't find the two last screws... (They were holding my power connection in place... why I used two of the screws for this job I've no idea...)

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It was almost a none starter.. not only is it tight, but the cables actually foul the clear CMOS pins on the board. I'd had to be sure the wires ran between the pins... the whole build would have to be dismantled to sort that, had it been the case.

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With a sizable gap between the CPU cooler and the PCI riser (where my Matrix orb will be fitted) I planned to run the SATA power cables directly down to the PCB and across to the PSU.

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I'm not a huge fan of heatshrink cables and SATA (at least this choice of connector) is level leet when attempting the heatshrinkless approach, alas I'm not pOpe so I rolled with it (I'm already planning to redo it when I move on to Stage 2).

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Not a flattering angle, but you get the idea. I'd just been training the bends and had sagged the sleeve. :rolleyes:

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With it fitted to the SSDs, now came the PITA. I'm not all too confident with soldering, but how else am I going to get any better. With the harness in place and the PSU in there too, I had a lot of already short cables to shorten and solder... with the prospect of starting over if I messed up (I only had the exact number of SATA terminals) hanging over me, a mistake at this point would have been a rage quit. haha..

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Done, all the connections were solid, the heatshink suffered as the wires heated up but with that end of the loom being down running along the PCB I wasn't too concerned.

Next was the bloody 24PIN, well, all the other cables really! If you've been following along you'll remember I've not been a huge fan of my pervious efforts. I loved the colors... individually, but struggled to make them work once fitted in a combination that really blended with the color scheme.

I touched on it a couple updates ago (I think) but I'd bought more sleeve in just the blue and the grey. So the plan was to re-sleeve the GPU, POWER and CPU. Then make a new 24pin.

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The old one was just a little too long in many of the wires which caused it to push up against the RAM more then I'd like.. I took my time, dropped the partial sleeve from last time and it worked out much better IMO.

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This time round i was able to have the PSU end come up from the bottom, which would enable to power adapter cable to run flush over the top, much better then before.

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Lastly I used more of the matt black vinyl to mute the silver/red motherboard stickers.

SO....

It's not finished....

But.

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What do you think?

J.​
 
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Looks fab. The obsessing over the details is paying off for sure. Love the colour scheme

It's working out for sure. I'm so impressed with the NFC S4 MINI, those SSDs sit happy around 42'c when the system is under gaming load (GPU @ 70'C) while the CPU idles at 17'c (currently 15'c) and maxes at 44'c (gaming load). it's both quiet and plenty powerful enough for LAN times.

looks great

Thanks

Thats one of the best builds I have seen. So slick!

Dude, cheers.

J.
 
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I've been building rig's for years but when i see stuff this good still blows me away!

Your a 1st class modder mate, really nice work.

Thanks buddy, I don't bang out the builds, the specs are never top end, but I love building them and the when they're finished I'm hungry for the next.

Black vinyl to cover a motherboard's red and silver stickers, eh? Sounds familiar ;)

Seriously though, this is just sick. Absolutely stunning work, love it.

Cheers buddy, wasnt sure what you were getting at.... checked out your link. Dude, you've done a much better job with the vinyl.

Fantastic dude.looking forward in seeing it this weekend

Great seeing you over the weekend. Glad I didnt get your man flu! haha

J.
 
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