Mondeo cut out/misfiring ideas needed!
- Thread starter ajstan
- Start date
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If i can find anything picture wise on the web, i'll post it up here with arrows & things!
http://www.talkford.com/
I don't know loads about the mk3 mondeo, the above is a very good forum!!. The engine in your car is an evolution of the one that was in mine, a lot of things will be very similar.
Nope, you need an OBD2 diagnostic tool & the software. ScanXL, obd-diag for a laptop or for a mobile mobile phone there's OBD gauge for win mobile or OBDroid for android phones
I have one of these: http://digiobd.co.uk/shop/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=29780
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If i can find anything picture wise on the web, i'll post it up here with arrows & things!
http://www.talkford.com/
I don't know loads about the mk3 mondeo, the above is a very good forum!!. The engine in your car is an evolution of the one that was in mine, a lot of things will be very similar.
Nope, you need an OBD2 diagnostic tool & the software. ScanXL, obd-diag for a laptop or for a mobile mobile phone there's OBD gauge for win mobile or OBDroid for android phones
I have one of these: http://digiobd.co.uk/shop/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=29780
I did actually post this problem on talkford and didn't get a single reply
That diagnostic stuff looks pretty cool, I wouldn't know what to look for though
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My mate has a garage & I'm pretty sure he has the (legit!!) ford manuals, if so I'll pm you the pictures from it for the relevant systems, they should be very well documented on there. From what i can see from web pics, the engine on the MK3 isn't that much different from the Mk1/2
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Deleted member 66701
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Deleted member 66701
Totally different in 1.8ltr and 2ltr guise - Zetecs on the MK1/2's and Duratecs on the MK3's - they share barely any common components.
Get a CPS (Crank Position Sensor) from a scrapper and swap that out - faulty ones can give the same sympotoms as you're having and they sometimes don't thro a fault code.
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the components won't physically fit, but a lot of components are 'common' & do exactly the same job as they did on the mk2!. They both have EGR systems and vacuum hoses for various things, vacuum leaks especially are notorious for rough running problems that don't show up as fault codes.
All cars have alternators, inlet manifolds, vacuum systems etc which are essentially doing the same job they just look & operate slightly different!. Any problems with them will result in similar systems/problems to older/different vehicles.
Looking at the diagrams, from a technical viewpoint of how the systems work on these cars there is little difference between them in a lot of cases. The EGR system in particular, they only differences are the location of the vacuum pipes & a stepper motor actuates the valve instead of a solenoid/vacuum system in the mk2. Plus it's water cooled. But it does exactly the same job, i'm just looking to see how it works because they are a common fault. It was easy to test on the Mk2, you took the vacuum pipe off the solenoid end and sucked on the pipe with the engine running, if it cut out or tried to cut out, then the valve was working o.k.. It was easy to see if their was vacuum going the the solenoid, pull the pipe off & stick your finger over it!. To test the solenoid, disonnect the egr vacuum pipe & put a vacuum gauge between it & the egr valve & check to see if the vacuum changes with throttle position, if it does then it works o.k.
The problem with most people who try and fix cars themselves is to jump in and swap components without looking at things such as the wiring or vacuum pipes first. Often it's very simple things like a bad earth or an air leak that's causing the trouble. Still, a lot of parts sellers won't complain that you're buying parts from them for absolutely no reason and putting money in their pockets!
This crank sensor, how do you go about testing it first then before deciding it's broken??. Generally, if they are duff then the engine will run very badly or won't run at all.
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loooking at the egr valve on your car, it's a bit of a pain to test without pulling it apart afaics! 
i would say to drive the car for 1/2 hour with it disconnected & see if that cures the fault, but it will probably generate a fault code within the ecu. Not 100% sure if you can clear this by pulling the ecu 3amp fuse or if you would need an obd2 reader.
i would say to drive the car for 1/2 hour with it disconnected & see if that cures the fault, but it will probably generate a fault code within the ecu. Not 100% sure if you can clear this by pulling the ecu 3amp fuse or if you would need an obd2 reader.
Deleted member 66701
D
Deleted member 66701
Well, you'd generally hook it up to an osciliscope and check for an appropriate sqare wave signal and missing tooth registration - if that checks out you'd check for correct PIP and SAW signals on the ecu and check for correct vref (5v I believe for a CPS sensor on a Duratec), but as that is no doubt beyond the scope of the OP it's easier (and cheaper) just to get one from a scrapper for £12. If it doesn't fix it, sell it back on ebay for £12 and you're not out of pocket.
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Sounds like I would have to get someone to do it for me so I would have to pay labour. To be honest though, I just don't think it can be that - seems like an odd thing to go wrong. Obviously I don't know for sure but problems with vacuums seem much more likely.
It's looking like I'm going to have to get another car
It's looking like I'm going to have to get another car
Just an update to this thread:
I had the car serviced (it's overdue, I've been looking at getting new cars so I hadn't bothered) and the problem went away completely! At least it did for 2-3days - then it just did the odd misfire and now on the 4th day its back to misfiring as it did before.
Does anybody know what on earth is happening? Are the spark plugs getting ruined somehow?
I had the car serviced (it's overdue, I've been looking at getting new cars so I hadn't bothered) and the problem went away completely! At least it did for 2-3days - then it just did the odd misfire and now on the 4th day its back to misfiring as it did before.
Does anybody know what on earth is happening? Are the spark plugs getting ruined somehow?
Caporegime
This sounds exactly like my e39 when i got it, intermittent slight miss on 1 cyl. (but was not sure which)
I found & replaced one coil that was suspect, but the miss fire seemed to then migrate!
Replacing all 6 coil packs has cured it completely - and transformed the engine from flat & lifeless into very much better than I'd expect given its age & miles!
I don't know if your car has individual coil packs per cyl as mine does though, so this is probably useless.
I found & replaced one coil that was suspect, but the miss fire seemed to then migrate!
Replacing all 6 coil packs has cured it completely - and transformed the engine from flat & lifeless into very much better than I'd expect given its age & miles!
I don't know if your car has individual coil packs per cyl as mine does though, so this is probably useless.
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So it's been about 1.5months since the problem has been fixed, thought I'd do one final update on this thread with some pictures to show what's wrong (I found it fascinating).
I took it to ford for one final last check on it and after an 'advanced diagnostic check' they said there was a problem with inlet manifold, but unlike any other ones he had seen my one wasn't rattling at all.
Then 3days later it sounded like this:
Obviously I had to make a decision fast, so I decided to get it fixed and asked Ford to keep the old parts (my Dad offered to pay because he felt sorry for me)
When I got it back, engine sounded new, car felt quicker and there are no misfires!
Here are some pics of the part:
You can see on pot 3 the yellow butterfly flaps are damaged and on pot 4 its gone all together.
The thing on the left I assume is connected to the throttle so when I put my foot down, fuel either flooded into the engine and caused a misfire on pot 4, or didn't get enough petrol because the butterfly flap is jammed half open on pot 3.
But anyway I'm so pleased its fixed
I took it to ford for one final last check on it and after an 'advanced diagnostic check' they said there was a problem with inlet manifold, but unlike any other ones he had seen my one wasn't rattling at all.
Then 3days later it sounded like this:
Obviously I had to make a decision fast, so I decided to get it fixed and asked Ford to keep the old parts (my Dad offered to pay because he felt sorry for me
)When I got it back, engine sounded new, car felt quicker and there are no misfires!
Here are some pics of the part:
You can see on pot 3 the yellow butterfly flaps are damaged and on pot 4 its gone all together.
The thing on the left I assume is connected to the throttle so when I put my foot down, fuel either flooded into the engine and caused a misfire on pot 4, or didn't get enough petrol because the butterfly flap is jammed half open on pot 3.
But anyway I'm so pleased its fixed
@ajstan
First of all, thank you for posting the solution. I have the exact same problem with my Mondeo 1.8 -01.
The images above doesn't work after all these years and I just wonder, if you still have them, if it's possible to post them again or if it's possible explain the solution "in words".
Did you have to replace the whole inlet manifold or was it possible to exchange the defective parts?
Kind regards
First of all, thank you for posting the solution. I have the exact same problem with my Mondeo 1.8 -01.
The images above doesn't work after all these years and I just wonder, if you still have them, if it's possible to post them again or if it's possible explain the solution "in words".
Did you have to replace the whole inlet manifold or was it possible to exchange the defective parts?
Kind regards