Mondeo TD "screw mod"?

Caporegime
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Caporegime
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attachment link doesnt work.

http://www.fordmondeo.org/forum/showtopic.php?tid/546541/tp/1/ that one?
or

http://members.lycos.co.uk/plandesigns/tuning.htm this one?

Both work fine on 3 different PC's here :confused:

Edit: This is the image!
1179570496-fuel_pump_adjustment.jpg



A quote from the Lycos link...
MONDEO 1.8TD ENGINE TUNING MODIFICATIONS GUIDE (ENDURA-DE & 1.8 TURBO DIESEL)



AIR FILTER MODIFICATIONS – I originally tried a K&N Panel filter replacement, but didn’t see any noticeable difference in throttle response. So then I fitted the K&N 57i induction kit from www.filterpower.co.uk – it consists of a cone filter, MAF bracket and cold air feed and costs over £100. When I removed the standard air box to fit it, I extended the existing cold air feed to reach nearer the new cone and also fitted the K&N cold air feed. It did make the car feel more responsive, and give a nice sound.

However, I wanted a larger cone so have fitted a BK Racing item from www.powerandperformance.co.uk which worked out a lot cheaper than buying a K&N 57i kit (because then you could make your own bracket very easily and get some duct pipe from B&Q or an old hoover to make the cold air feed). Then I got a custom heat shield for the cone filter from Mondeo Sports Fabrications.

The cold air feed can be any type of plastic or metal flexible duct pipe, fix it in place under the cone so its not touching, and route it to the lower grill in the bumper. Fix in place using cable ties.

Its worth cleaning the MAF sensor while you have got the airbox off, inside the MAF housing you will see a small round tube with 2 small wires in it. Give them a spray with carb cleaner, taking care not to touch them.



INCREASING THE FUELLING AND TURBO BOOST– I have had the Turbo boost advanced to 18PSI from 15PSI (standard boost) using a bleed valve. This can be done on the mk2 by adjusting the actuator on the turbo, but I preferred having the bleed valve (costs approx £30) for future adjustment. And the actuator is quite difficult to access. 18PSI is a sensible amount to increase it to, more than that and the turbo is going to start struggling because it’s a small low-pressure turbo. Also, higher turbo boost may cause head gasket failure or other damage. The pipes for the bleed valve replace the single small thin loop pipe on the turbo, fix them on with jubilee clips and then fasten the whole bleed valve to the adjacent pipe going into the brake servo using cable ties to prevent it flopping about.

It’s a good idea to fit a boost guage to keep an eye on the boost level, if you find the boost suddenly goes sky high its because the pipe has come off the bleed valve. If its running too low or crept up, its simple to adjust the bleed valve (clockwise turns down the boost and vice versa). When adjusting, use very small turns. The boost guage fits easily into the coin holder area in the upper dash panel of the mondeo (alternatively mount it on the dash top, in an A-pillar pod, or in a panel replacing the ashtray). The boost guage pipe can tee into the long (boost) pipe from the turbo to the fuel pump, then run it through the grommet in the bulkhead just behind the fusebox which is behind the glove box. The wiring for the illumination can be spliced into the clock illumination wiring.

I tried silicon hose for the pipes to the bleed valve, and soon learnt they split all the time. So now have used heavy duty braided pipe and that has been fine.

No matter how much you increase the turbo boost, the car will not actually go any faster unless you have the fuelling increased on the fuel pump aswell (believe me I have tried it, and because no extra fuel is there to use, there is no performance gain at all). If you run the boost above 20PSI it splits the intercooler u-bend pipe, and will start blowing coolant pipes etc. Run it regularly at 23-25PSI and the turbo will not last very long and the head gasket blows.

The “on-boost” fuelling is what you need to make the turbo boost increase worth your while, and it is turned up on a screw inside the fuel pump, unfortunately I don’t know exactly which screw but from what I gather it needs doing by someone who knows their stuff because damage can be done otherwise. This will also mean more smoke will come out of the exhaust when on full throttle and at cold start, which is unburnt fuel.

I had the “on-boost” fuelling turned up, and the bleed valve fitted at www.dervdoctor.co.uk (near Derby) which is the same principle as chipping the car - but it has to be done mechanically on the 1.8TD because it has no ECU.

The “pre-boost” fuelling (fuelling before the turbo kicks in) can be turned up using the screws around the throttle mechanism. This can be done whether you have turned up your turbo boost or not, because it makes the car much quicker off the mark at launch before the turbo actually kicks in. I will post a picture of which screws to adjust at a later date.

See here for details and photos of which screws to adjust.

Another tweak which can be done in this area is removing the throttle mechanism shock absorber, this allows the engine to rev free-er, and back off the throttle quicker. There is a nut on each end to undo to remove.

Please note, with the fuelling and turbo boost advanced in this way, the car will be much quicker but also it will inevitably wear out engine components quicker if the car is driven hard all the time. I have noticed since these modifications, the car still uses no oil and doesn’t use any extra fuel. But, if I drive “lead footed” then it will use more fuel because more is going in to burn than ford ever intended. It is worth changing the oil more frequently than the specified intervals with these modifications done and use a high quality oil. Changing fuel filter and cambelt more frequently would also be advisable.



UPGRADE TURBO:

Essex Turbochargers, and Turbo Force in Preston do a hybrid turbo conversion for the 1.8TD and uprated actuator (£400 - £600). Its not cheap but will give a massive hike in power (the standard turbo is very small). And then the turbo would be able to take higher boost.



DUMP VALVE:

Custom made Collins twin piston dump valve with Spec-R box, electronic controller, EGR solenoid, micro switch and Samco hosing. Its arguable that a dump valve does nothing on a diesel power-wise, but it does sound very good! Derv Doctor will fit you one for about £300 if you don’t want to tackle the job yourself.

SERVICING AND MAINTENANCE – I use Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic Oil. The oil filters, sump plug washers, fuel filters and pollen filters I use are all from Ford Parts department (no different to Halfords prices and the Ford/Motorcraft components seem to be of a higher quality). I have noticed it’s a good idea fitting a new sump plug every other service because they become worn and difficult to remove. Changing the oil filter is easier if the drivers side (RHD) front wheel is removed, and the small section of arch liner going over the drive shaft.

Check if the intercooler is dirty, they become choked up with muck and flies etc. 2 x 10mm bolts on each side of the intercooler and one jubilee clip from the LH pipe is needed to be taken off, to remove the intercooler. Then you can clean it in a bucket of hot soapy water/detergent/engine bay cleaner etc. On mine it was seriously choked so I used thin wire to rod out between all of the fins being careful not to damage the fins.

Check adjustment of throttle cable, over time they stretch and when the pedal is fully pressed, you aren’t actually on full throttle.

Check the thin pipes around the turbo area and on the long (boost) pipe to the fuel pump to see if they are beginning to perish and crack. Mine were, so I replaced them with heavy duty braided pipe. Do not use silicon pipe for this purpose, it will split.



ENGINE BAY VENTILATION – I have remove the engine undershielding and fitted escort cosworth bonnet vents to aid engine bay ventilation. I removed the bonnet sound deadening to stop any heat soak which is going on in there. This sound deadening must remain if you keep the standard intercooler position.



SHINEY ENGINE BAY BITS –

all from Mondeo Sports Fabrications

Polished Cam cover

Chromed OMP Front Strut brace – it was a red OMP strut brace for a mk1 mondeo zetec, but fit my mk2 TD with no problems. I then got it chrome plated.

Bonnet lifters – made for a Corsa B but fit the mk1 and mk2 mondeo

EXHAUST UPGRADES – I have had fitted a twin exit stainless steel Powerflow made exhaust custom cut into the rear RSAP bumper, to look like the ST200 but with larger oval exits. This was done at a powerflow dealer ( www.powerandperfornance.co.uk near Norwich) and has made the car more responsive, and gives a nice sounds. I have had the rear section (with no boxes) and the centre section (with a smaller box) all done in larger bore pipe (57mm). There wasn’t much point getting the front section done because little gain is to be had. But I am considering getting a decat next because some of the Pug and VW TDi tuning guys have had good results from decatting theirs. The Powerflow systems come with lifetime guarantee which is an added bonus.

I have known other people fit Mongoose systems (made for a mondeo V6), and remus backboxes etc onto the mondeo TD and all seem to work well.



FRONT MOUNTED INTERCOOLER CONVERSION:

Parts include several samco hoses, modified RS turbo crossover/charge carrier pipe, 2 lengths of 55mm steel pipe (450mm and 550mm), Mikalor hose clamp required on turbo to stop pipe blowing off, cam cover bracket, Renault 21 turbo intercooler (soon to be replaced with large Saab 9000 intercooler which fits perfectly in front of rad).

It has made a massive difference to the power on mine and now its less smokey, better on fuel, and needs less turbo boost to sit at 70mph.

There is no lag whatsoever, considering the fairly long lengths of pipework to the I/C.

CO2 or mist onto the intercooler would help aswell. If you want to keep the I/C up the top you could fit something like a subaru scoop above it, but remember its got the exhaust manifold and red-hot turbo right under it so theres massive heatsoak especially if your running higher boost.

I have done a how-to with diagram labelling all the parts required, to see it, click here



CAMS:

Piper cams list a upgraded cam for the 1.8diesel ford, but I rang them and they said it definitely does not fit the 1.8TD. The only thing which could be done cam-wise is have the standard one re-profiled for higher lift/duration etc.



MANAGEMENT:

Piggyback ECU cannot be fitted or anything like that, it’s a totally mechanical fuel pump so it cant be done.



TRANSMISSION:

Different gear ratios would make the car much quicker. There is no uprated clutch available, but the standard flywheel could be machined to lighten it.



INJECTORS:

Unknown if any bigger injectors will fit but I need to find out at what power the stock injectors become “maxed out”.



NITROUS:

Works very very well on a diesel engine (more progressive), helps burn up some of the unburnt fuel you normally see as black smoke when on full throttle. Unfortunately nobody I know of has put *** on a 1.8TD so I am wary of trying it, my car has high miles which also puts me off fitting it but I may have a dabble with 25bhp jets on it. LPG is another possibility for increasing power on a TD.



ENGINE INTERNALS:

Obviously lightened/balanced internals could be done, gas flowed/ported head, bigger valves etc but I don’t know anyone who has done it yet.



ENGINE TYPES:

Mk1 Mondeo 1.8TD engine is called “1.8 DIESEL” as printed on cam cover, and “TURBO” is written just above it. Early Mk2’s also had this engine and then it became the “ENDURA-DE” for the rest of the run of the mk2. Very little difference apart from Endura has smaller turbo (less lag) and different fuel pump and other minor differences. Early Mk1’s had no catalyst.

Edit #2 image file won't work now :)confused:) so I uploaded it to photobucket ,but, its a bit small - image was 1600x1200.... Weird!
 
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Caporegime
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Soldato
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Surely you never bought a 1.8TD old Ford lump for performance? I guess it was for economy which isn't that great anyway but screw modding it wont do the economy much good will it?
 
Caporegime
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Surely you never bought a 1.8TD old Ford lump for performance? I guess it was for economy which isn't that great anyway but screw modding it wont do the economy much good will it?

Probably not do the economy a lot of good, no. And, no, I did'nt buy it for its performance!

But, reading the mondeo.org thread (here http://www.fordmondeo.org/forum/showtopic.php?tid/546541/tp/1/ ) it seems economy isn't greatly altered unless the screw is turned too much and the engine starts to over-fuel.

That said, I can't see the MPG dropping to sub 20's which I often got with my previous car, so I'll still be happy. :)
 
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Caporegime
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I'm only being snobbish about the utterly horrible engine Ford saw fit to use. I'm sure you could find something with a proper diesel engine like the XUD in it for the same money.

Given that my GF has an XUD engined Xantia, I can honestly say the "Endura-e" engine in my Mondeo isn't any worse by comparison, if anything it seems smoother & has alot more torque by back to back comparison - I hav'nt bothered to google the respective engine outputs, I'm just going by seat of the pants feel if you will.

Anyway, I have the Mondeo!

Edit: Xantia 1.9TD 145lb/ft torque @ 2,250rpm, Mondeo 1.8TD 131lb/ft Torque @ oh, its don't say! :o there you go, the Xantia has more torque, but, my GF's example feels as if it has considerably less - its a nail, I'm not surprised!
 
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Soldato
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Probably not do the economy a lot of good, no.

But, reading the mondeo.org thread (here http://www.fordmondeo.org/forum/showtopic.php?tid/546541/tp/1/ ) it seems economy isn't greatly altered unless the screw is turned too much and the engine starts to over-fuel.

That said, I can't see the MPG dropping to sub 20's which I often got with my previous car, so I'll still be happy. :)

Yes but if it's sub-30mpg you may aswell get a 2.0 Petrol Mondeo as it will be cheaper! (petrol cheaper than diesel still?). Also, the petrol is a nicer drive and better performance.
 
Caporegime
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Yes but if it's sub-30mpg you may aswell get a 2.0 Petrol Mondeo as it will be cheaper! (petrol cheaper than diesel still?). Also, the petrol is a nicer drive and better performance.

I'm currently getting circa 45mpg, and the "performance" isn't that bad (given what it is! )

I've pm'd a couple of the guys on the mondeo.org forum to see what mpg they get with the mod done.
Don't do it, will have enough torks to spin the earth the wrong way :p


I probably won't bother with the mod tbh,I'm most likely to get it wrong & blow my head gasket or worse! - I was surprised to discover this mod whilst browsing, and as I say,was surprised it had'nt cropped up here before.
 
Soldato
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Given that my GF has an XUD engined Xantia, I can honestly say the "Endura-e" engine in my Mondeo isn't any worse by comparison, if anything it seems smoother & has alot more torque by back to back comparison - I hav'nt bothered to google the respective engine outputs, I'm just going by seat of the pants feel if you will.

Anyway, I have the Mondeo!

Edit: Xantia 1.9TD 145lb/ft torque @ 2,250rpm, Mondeo 1.8TD 131lb/ft Torque @ oh, its don't say! :o there you go, the Xantia has more torque, but, my GF's example feels as if it has considerably less - its a nail, I'm not surprised!

I'm comparing back in the mists of time when they were pretty box fresh. I had a 306 DT when they were respectable in the late 90's, and spent a couple of weeks in an Escort TD as a hire car through work. After 120 odd miles and many hours on the M6 back from Birmingham in the hire car of the week it was nice to get back in the 306 and go home. The 'scort didn't get the award for nastiest hire car tho - that was shared between a Daewoo Lanos and a Datsun Almera...
 
Caporegime
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I'm comparing back in the mists of time when they were pretty box fresh. I had a 306 DT when they were respectable in the late 90's, and spent a couple of weeks in an Escort TD as a hire car through work. After 120 odd miles and many hours on the M6 back from Birmingham in the hire car of the week it was nice to get back in the 306 and go home. The 'scort didn't get the award for nastiest hire car tho - that was shared between a Daewoo Lanos and a Datsun Almera...

The Mondeo TD & Escort TD are different (which I had'nt realised until I was told on here) apparently,iirc, the pump is different on the Mondeo (somebody'll know) back to back, the Mondeo feels considerably smoother & pokier than the Escort, as I've found myself, at work we have a few Escort TD Vans, the engine "feels" completly different - in a bad way - in the 'scort from behind the wheel.
 
Soldato
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£1k for a decent Mondeo TD is still a good deal, and it's new enough not to count as bangernomics. Even tho it sounds like a bag of spanners the engine will last for ever, so it's bargaintastic motoring. I doubt you could say that about anything French. :D
 
Caporegime
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£1k for a decent Mondeo TD is still a good deal, and it's new enough not to count as bangernomics. Even tho it sounds like a bag of spanners the engine will last for ever, so it's bargaintastic motoring. I doubt you could say that about anything French. :D


Prior to my GF buying her Xantia, I'd have probably gone for one over any Ford diesel, now that I've experienced her Xantia over 2 years, I'd never consider one again!

My GF scared me tonight, she came in from driving my Mondeo (I can't drive atm due to an operation I had the other day) saying "the petrol light is on" thankfully she had'nt gone to the garage, but was surprised when I told her it was a diesel!!!

Given she's had her Xantia TD for 2 years, you'd have thought she'd know what a diesel sounds & drives like !!!! Women! :rolleyes:

Anyway, I still await any Oc/Uk users that have tried this mod out.......... :)
 
Soldato
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It has made a massive difference to the power on mine and now its less smokey, better on fuel, and needs less turbo boost to sit at 70mph.
I'm surprised you have to use ANY turbo to sit at 70.

No wonder the economy isn't that great.
 
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