Motor Auctions

Goumet

Goumet

Goumet

Associate
Joined
4 Jul 2005
Posts
365
I need a cheap / reliable run around, so I keep going to my local auctions, and drawing a blank, everything I have my eye on goes for more than I want to pay.

Any tips?
 
go there when there is less people there! if busy a lot more people to fight!

or when it is really raine. i have notice less people go on horrible days. but that just could be the place i did go to.
 
Never thought of Rainy days.....although I was told never to buy a car when its wet as you can't see any defects?

Is that true?
 
yea it is harder but look harder take your time. just done run in side if you get wet you wont melt and u could get a bargin. but that is my option see what others say.
 
Also, seen lots of people walking around with Dealers price guides?

Are they a good idea? and which one is the best to buy?
 
yea they are very good. tell you the max you should pay very handy. and also what type of money they can make if they get the car for the price they want.
 
Parkers is a reasonable guide, available to anyone.

CAP (Car auction prices) reflects what prices are fetching at auction.
Glasses Guide works on a set of rules. Age, Mileage, condition and a set rule for depreciation.

Glasses and CAP rarely match and both are JUST A GUIDE. They are usually available to the trade only. Most dealers in a part exchange will only offer you glasses bottom book for your car regardless of its condition.

Hence selling privatly will get you more money. Parkers prices reflect this.
 
So what your saying is If I go to an auction with a parkers guide, and expect to pay slightly lower than the 'Private Sale' price in the guide, I'll be doing about right?
 
Please don't go anywhere near an auction clutching a copy of Parkers - the traders will spot you and deliberately try and force you bidding up, traders do not like private punters.

The only people who use Parkers are private punters, it's merely a loose guide.

Get a copy of Glass's of CAP somehow, or don't take a price guide.

Chose the sort of car you want BEFORE you go, learn everything there is to know about it first, then go - give all the potential cars a good looking over before you bid.

DO NOT bid anywhere NEAR private sale price. You are buying a car, as seen, with no warranty, no test drive. You cannot even SIT in it before it goes through. You therefore need to be getting the car at a significant discount to make this worthwhile because there could well be faults.

Decide how much the car is worth to you, and do not, repeat NOT, bid above that amount. Even by £10. This is how you get carried away..
 
Thanks Fox, I'll try and get a Glass's guide.

Its just becoming a pain, thinking you know what a cars worth, then it goes through, for twice the price, and you've missed verything else.

I'll try that approach.. cheers.
 
I live in Yorkshire, I'll tell you the whole story as follows:-

I have just got a new job, which means I can't travel to work with the wife everyday, so will need another car.

I will be driving about 70 miles per day, 5 days a week, so I want something fairly cheap and reliable. I'm not buying another new car on principle.

I wanted a diesel, as my other cars a diesel, and I love the fuel economy.

My budget is about £1500, but I'm starting to think i'm in a dream world.

Hope you can point me in the right direction.
 
You should be fine at that budget, look for something like a 406 diesel or if you dont care about performance, a Mondeo Mk2 Diesel. These are easily obtainable for under £1500.
 
I keep looking a 406 Diesels, but they keep going for £1500+ at auction, thats excluding buyers fee, and V.A.T.

Saying that, that was on a 'W' Plate...What age should I be looking at, for either car?
 
Goumet said:
I keep looking a 406 Diesels, but they keep going for £1500+ at auction, thats excluding buyers fee, and V.A.T.

Saying that, that was on a 'W' Plate...What age should I be looking at, for either car?
Click to expand...

P-W reg, higher mileage cars will be cheaper.

Most cars of this type will be main dealer part exchanges.

You will not pay VAT unless the vehicle was bought for business use VAT-free to start with, which 95% of cars were not.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom