NEARLY 2 YEARS WAITING: New Mustang GT PP is finally mine!
- Thread starter Gibbo
- Start date
I love it.
Wheels will be changed when new tyres are required, inbetween spacers will be used and I shall change the colour of them.
I bet it looks much better in person in fairness, and the spacers will make a huge difference. Have you thought much about which wheels you want once you've chewed through the original tyres?
And I echo the above commends about the sound. It does sound excellent! I'm glad they still make new cars which sound like that!
Choosing a wheel is like choosing a wing, I change my mind dailey, I will post up some of my favourites later, if I go 20" I have the advantage of easily being able to get my favourite tyres, Supersports. If I go 19" tyre options become far less when looking for such a wide tyre. 20" in my view also looks better especially on lowered car, but could be at cost of ride comfort but maybe not as even the larger wheels are still nearly 5kg a corner lighter which would help improve ride quality quite a bit and of course improve performance/handling. But there are so many great looking wheels.
But plan is a 275/35-40/20 front tyre with a 295-305/35/20 rear tyre. I believe any lower on profile looks pretty horrid on the Mustang, it needs some good chunky tyre wall as it is a muscle car end of the day so BMW style skinny tyres really don't suite it and would wreck ride comfort in my view.
I have to say I do feel it looks a little low but I'm sure it is the pictures that do not do it justice. Still awesome though! Love it!
It is the illusion of the front looking higher, Mustangs need rake (muscle car) the lack of spacers actually give the illusion of it looking lower in the rear when it is not. I will probably trial my front 25mm spacers and take some photos so you can see the effect.
Though a spacer in the rear will also stop the illusion of the rear wheels/tyres being tucked in the rear wings, just the 23mm spacers I have cause poke and I HATE POKE! But I shall do a trial fit for looks only if weather permits, I just have no intention to drive on spacers until I have mud flaps.
Wheel / tyre sticking out beyond bodywork.
Yes but I hate poke look, but I also dislike the look of my wheels looking lost as well.
My spacers could be made to work without poke by using more negative camber, so those who love stance go that kind of route, I put drive / ride quality first and that is one thing now the car drives better than ever.
Great read Gibbo and enjoying all the modification updates
Are you considering racing stripes at some point maybe in black to match your decals?
Before I got the car I was all set on stripes pretty much identical to what you posted, as my original image was a modern day Eleanor hence the side decal which I love, but I think racing stripes are now not required, I like the look without.
Just looks too low to me, but then I am all for function rather than aesthetics and this type of car is often bought for the former (fine if that's the aim). If the ride is better now lowered, think what it could be like at standard height
Yes the ride would be worse. Ride height often does not determine ride quality, but damper, spring rate and them being correctly matched does.
Also as you go higher the spring generally has to be stiffer to prevent a vehicle from rolling over I believe.
My bank account pays if it breaks.
Here you go:
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43311
4 people all stating same, 3 had ordered the RS, then changed after seeing a Mustang.
One went to Ford to order an RS, they had a Mustang, changed his mind.
One is a Focus that goes fast and is capable, but still a Focus.
One is a Mustang, a car with more history than most other cars, a true icon, heritage and the quality is way above other Ford UK cars and the value is incredible. But hey don't listen to me, the facts are there.
Here is the PH thread as well where Mustang is getting a lot of love:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=23&t=1569955
Hi there
So do I go black/darker wheels and de-chrome or not?
Car 1
This car has the same suspension as mine, FRPP with Steeda Ultralites but is running 1" (25.4mm) spacers all round:
Car 2
This car is running FRPP but using Eibach sportlines which drop the car around a further 5mm both front and rear. This car only has 5mm front spacer and he is exceptionally good with a camera.
So in car 1 which is running identical setup to myself with the only change being spacers really has quite a dramatic effect on the look. But as mentioned you can see especially in the rear that the 25.4mm spacers do poke out a little bit which I don't like, but in the front 25.4mm seem pretty spot on.
The second car which is fractionally lower as running sportlines I believe remedies the illusion of looking lowing in the rear by adding a 5mm front spacer and having a lower front splitter.
If the rain goes away, tomorrow I shall trial fit my 25mm and 23mm spacers on one side and take before and after photos of the car. As I am running well manner cambers for road driving I suspect that 23mm will definetely poke in the rear and 25mm with be flush, but we shall see.
I have also ordered some 8mm spacers for testing. If 23mm in the front looks good I just need to find a suitable rear size, I shall try 8mm and if not enough look at a 12-18mm rear spacer.
I also have a front splitter here as well for sometime so I might try trial fitting it as well.
Then the question, in my view the car just looks better with darker wheels and potentially de-chroming, the two US cars above looks vastly different and the only difference is wheel colour and no chrome, but will sort spacers first because all of a sudden with spacer the lighter wheels may start to really work.
Now just hope the weather goes away, had a drive today but roads are very wet and heavy rain, so hard to push but the cars balance and dynamics are much improved, sideways is a lot more progressive and the car never feels like it is floating or bouncing any more. Ride comfort is for sure improved with no downsides.
So do I go black/darker wheels and de-chrome or not?
Car 1
This car has the same suspension as mine, FRPP with Steeda Ultralites but is running 1" (25.4mm) spacers all round:
Car 2
This car is running FRPP but using Eibach sportlines which drop the car around a further 5mm both front and rear. This car only has 5mm front spacer and he is exceptionally good with a camera.
So in car 1 which is running identical setup to myself with the only change being spacers really has quite a dramatic effect on the look. But as mentioned you can see especially in the rear that the 25.4mm spacers do poke out a little bit which I don't like, but in the front 25.4mm seem pretty spot on.
The second car which is fractionally lower as running sportlines I believe remedies the illusion of looking lowing in the rear by adding a 5mm front spacer and having a lower front splitter.
If the rain goes away, tomorrow I shall trial fit my 25mm and 23mm spacers on one side and take before and after photos of the car. As I am running well manner cambers for road driving I suspect that 23mm will definetely poke in the rear and 25mm with be flush, but we shall see.
I have also ordered some 8mm spacers for testing. If 23mm in the front looks good I just need to find a suitable rear size, I shall try 8mm and if not enough look at a 12-18mm rear spacer.
I also have a front splitter here as well for sometime so I might try trial fitting it as well.
Then the question, in my view the car just looks better with darker wheels and potentially de-chroming, the two US cars above looks vastly different and the only difference is wheel colour and no chrome, but will sort spacers first because all of a sudden with spacer the lighter wheels may start to really work.
Now just hope the weather goes away, had a drive today but roads are very wet and heavy rain, so hard to push but the cars balance and dynamics are much improved, sideways is a lot more progressive and the car never feels like it is floating or bouncing any more. Ride comfort is for sure improved with no downsides.
Don't think you read what I put.
Car one is on 25.4mm all round.
I have 25mm and 23mm to try, but in the end I believe I will end up with 23mm in front and try 8-18mm in the rear, trial and error required.
Well if you read my replies you would see I posted links to the references.
I have no need to make things up.
Hi there
Well the sun made an appearance today, so I trial fitted the spacers.
First photos are no spacer, then followed by many with spacers.
NO SPACER!
23mm Spacer front & rear!
The poke or lack off
Front Wheel
Rear Wheel
Trust me after seeing car with 23mm spacers fitted I did not want to remove them, what a transformation, but for now they are off until my mud flaps arrive.
I think 23mm is absolutely spot on for the front, there is no poke and it looks just right, 20mm would also look spot on I imagine as well and 25mm will also work just fine in the front. So am happy with 23mm!
In the rear for me 23mm is too much, that is quite a lot of poke and I am sure they would also rub on bumpier roads or aggressive driving though a lot of US guys report no issues as such. However I shall grab myself some 15mm Eibach hubcentric spacers for the rear as I think 15mm will be pretty much spot on.
Absolutely love the look, cannot wait to get the spacers and mud flaps as it transforms the look from a heavy looking car to more what is should be a muscle/sports look. The rear also looks higher as well now, though I think if it was possible to get it 5-10mm higher would be absolute perfection, maybe possible with spring pads, but clutching at straws here. It is why we mod cars to get them looking how we want them to look, some will appreciate it and others will not, all that matters is the owner is happy.
After seeing the car like this I am now unsure about de-chroming and going darker wheels, it just looks so good now and how I had it pictured in my mind before I got the car.
So hope this helps others, front spacer 20-25mm and rear spacer 8-15mm will give a great look that is nearly flush with no poke.
I also measure ground clearance at the sides, after front wheels is 4.75" and just before rear wheels is just over 6", this car definitely has some rake going on.
Well the sun made an appearance today, so I trial fitted the spacers.
First photos are no spacer, then followed by many with spacers.
NO SPACER!
23mm Spacer front & rear!
The poke or lack off
Front Wheel
Rear Wheel
Trust me after seeing car with 23mm spacers fitted I did not want to remove them, what a transformation, but for now they are off until my mud flaps arrive.
I think 23mm is absolutely spot on for the front, there is no poke and it looks just right, 20mm would also look spot on I imagine as well and 25mm will also work just fine in the front. So am happy with 23mm!
In the rear for me 23mm is too much, that is quite a lot of poke and I am sure they would also rub on bumpier roads or aggressive driving though a lot of US guys report no issues as such. However I shall grab myself some 15mm Eibach hubcentric spacers for the rear as I think 15mm will be pretty much spot on.
Absolutely love the look, cannot wait to get the spacers and mud flaps as it transforms the look from a heavy looking car to more what is should be a muscle/sports look. The rear also looks higher as well now, though I think if it was possible to get it 5-10mm higher would be absolute perfection, maybe possible with spring pads, but clutching at straws here. It is why we mod cars to get them looking how we want them to look, some will appreciate it and others will not, all that matters is the owner is happy.
After seeing the car like this I am now unsure about de-chroming and going darker wheels, it just looks so good now and how I had it pictured in my mind before I got the car.
So hope this helps others, front spacer 20-25mm and rear spacer 8-15mm will give a great look that is nearly flush with no poke.
I also measure ground clearance at the sides, after front wheels is 4.75" and just before rear wheels is just over 6", this car definitely has some rake going on.
Looks 10x better, very nice
No idea why car companies are so conservative regarding this, regulation thing?
I suspect to protect paint, as with no mud flaps the stone rash would be insane, hence for now I have removed them.
Already got 8mm spacers on way and mud flaps, doubt I shall use them but at £20 were worth a shot. I am going to try and find some specific Eibach 15mm for my car, so perfect fitment and safe like the ones I have now.
I think 15mm in the rear will be perfect!
Where have you being?
I had the car up in the air days after getting the car.
A few video clips a few pages back.
Mate!!!!
I think you just sold me, wow that looks amazing and it still works so well with the chrome, clear lights, chrome emblems, really like it. Guess I shall be visiting wheel shop soon.
This:
Corsa Sport: Maintains American muscle sound, deep rumble that is not obnoxious loud upto 3500rpm. High RPM full throttle hold american deep V8 growl with a touch of nascar rasp, again tone and volume holds, it does not just become noise at high RPM. Zero drone at any RPM!
The above is what I have.
Corsa Xtreme: Similar upto 3500rpm, but above this its a lot louder and very raspy/exotic sounding, it is like a further 15db louder than Sport. Zero drone at any RPM.
The other exhaust which is highly rated is the Borla ATAK system, which sits right between the Sport and Xtreme.
A lot of people went FRPP Sport/Race system, it sounds very similar to Corsa Sport but at higher RPM it loses tone and just becomes loud, a lot of people who got the FRPP system ended up changing to the Corsa system. I wanted to get it right first time round.
Hi there
As I plan no engine modifications for a while, though trust me a remap is so tempting when 40BHP is on the cards for £400, but for now I shall ensure my engine is getting maximum potential power stock.
So this arrived today:
The stock cold intake track on our cars does not have a ram air effect as it is located back from the grill behind the blocked area.
What this little device does is bring the intake cold tract right upto and more or less sealed right behind the open part of the grill (similar to Roush CAI), though you do have to cut out some of the honey cones for maximum potential, see next image:
So this little device does a great job of directing the cold air directing into the air box. Even more so the stock design collapses at higher speeds really starving the stock intake of air and as such limiting horsepower when it does collapse which is a 50/50 chance as the stock design is poor (rubber). As the part inserts into the rubber not only is it directing the cold air direct to the air box but it also means the entrance won't collapse as well ensure maximum ram air effect.
I did this on my M3 with the CSL intake, using hoses to force cold air directly into the air box and the difference was noticable, both improved throttle response and of course the car pulled more eager/harder at motorway speeds.
Will get this fitted at weekend hopefully as it does mean partially removing front bumper to get it in place and I am sure it can be adapted to work with other CAI's on the market as well which are not as well thought out as the Roush or 350 intake.
As I plan no engine modifications for a while, though trust me a remap is so tempting when 40BHP is on the cards for £400, but for now I shall ensure my engine is getting maximum potential power stock.
So this arrived today:
The stock cold intake track on our cars does not have a ram air effect as it is located back from the grill behind the blocked area.
What this little device does is bring the intake cold tract right upto and more or less sealed right behind the open part of the grill (similar to Roush CAI), though you do have to cut out some of the honey cones for maximum potential, see next image:
So this little device does a great job of directing the cold air directing into the air box. Even more so the stock design collapses at higher speeds really starving the stock intake of air and as such limiting horsepower when it does collapse which is a 50/50 chance as the stock design is poor (rubber). As the part inserts into the rubber not only is it directing the cold air direct to the air box but it also means the entrance won't collapse as well ensure maximum ram air effect.
I did this on my M3 with the CSL intake, using hoses to force cold air directly into the air box and the difference was noticable, both improved throttle response and of course the car pulled more eager/harder at motorway speeds.
Will get this fitted at weekend hopefully as it does mean partially removing front bumper to get it in place and I am sure it can be adapted to work with other CAI's on the market as well which are not as well thought out as the Roush or 350 intake.
All in good time, spacers and mud flaps first. Then I shall consider a gunmetal/anthracite dark grey for wheels, don't want black and if I go grey I think it will look better and well be completely unique.
Then I can look at wrapping the chrome in 3M black wrap and consider change 5 badges to black but they will probably still work quite well. No rush, really enjoying just driving the thing.
I love the fact it does the GT side so immensely well, but also does the sports car thing pretty well, but certainly a lot better now since I changed all the suspension haha!