NEST thermostats

dbmzk1 · 9 Dec 2016 at 12:44

M1k3H said:
But, what about if you pop to the shops for milk for 15 or 30 minutes.. Should it turn off everything for that period of time?

At first I thought the same, however, it makes sense that if you are away for a short time, it might not be economically advantageous to turn the heating regime off.

Yes, it should. Why would anyone want the heating to stay on when they are not in? If you're back then it should turn back on - if you were out for a short duration it wont have cooled anyway, in fact the radiators would still be hot!

Anyway, still no reply from support.

M1k3H · 9 Dec 2016 at 23:09

dbmzk1 said:
Yes, it should. Why would anyone want the heating to stay on when they are not in? If you're back then it should turn back on - if you were out for a short duration it wont have cooled anyway, in fact the radiators would still be hot!

Anyway, still no reply from support.

Because it would not be as economic as if the schedule was left uninterrupted.

In any case, why not set it to away from the app?

dbmzk1 · 10 Dec 2016 at 00:33

M1k3H said:
Because it would not be as economic as if the schedule was left uninterrupted.

In any case, why not set it to away from the app?

Of course it would. It's not using gas when it's off and if you're out for a short duration it won't have chance to cool down. Staying on for 1/2/3 hours "just in case" is crazy and setting it manually all the time defeats the point of the system.

Luckily if you set it to away manually once or twice a few mins after you leave it gets the message and then does it automatically really quickly, or mine seems to anyway.

Still no response from support regarding the temp misreading, I'll phone them tomorrow I think.

sharper9 · 11 Dec 2016 at 10:59

Nest heat link siting.

Just purchased a Nest thermostat!

My plumber who is going to be fitting it is going to site the 'link' in the airing cupboard on 1st floor of the house. He has said it has to go there as the "gubbins" pump and electrics box is already in there.

I'm a little worried that it will be some distance from the the nest in the lounge on ground floor and it will be next to the hot water tank which will further diminish the wifi signal.

I wonder how easy it would be to site it in utility room (ground floor) with it next to boiler and or current programmer?

M1k3H · 11 Dec 2016 at 11:18

sharper9 said:
Just purchased a Nest thermostat!

My plumber who is going to be fitting it is going to site the 'link' in the airing cupboard on 1st floor of the house. He has said it has to go there as the "gubbins" pump and electrics box is already in there.

I'm a little worried that it will be some distance from the the nest in the lounge on ground floor and it will be next to the hot water tank which will further diminish the wifi signal.

I wonder how easy it would be to site it in utility room (ground floor) with it next to boiler and or current programmer?

You should be fine. Exactly same setup for me. Nest is downstairs, link is upstairs in airing cupboard. It will be wired as well as wireless so don't worry about signal.

sharper9 · 11 Dec 2016 at 11:26

Hi
Ta for the feedback.

Why will it still be wired?

The Nest will be moved from where the old thermostat was in the hall into our lounge sitting on my av shelfs.

GeForce · 11 Dec 2016 at 11:29

The thermostat dial requires 12V to run which is supplied by the T1/T2 terminals on the HeatLink.

Axeboy · 11 Dec 2016 at 11:39

Yeah, I think some people are missing that the Nest dial can be powered and wirelessly linked.... or hardwired to the heatlink

sharper9 · 11 Dec 2016 at 11:43

Axeboy said:
Yeah, I think some people are missing that the Nest dial can be powered and wirelessly linked.... or hardwired to the heatlink

Mine will be powered and wireless linked, thus my concerns with the distance and hotwater tank!

Axeboy · 11 Dec 2016 at 11:45

I had some issues but my link was wired really close to the ground. I rewired it at head height and its been working fine across the house.

sharper9 · 11 Dec 2016 at 12:18

Axeboy said:
I had some issues but my link was wired really close to the ground. I rewired it at head height and its been working fine across the house.

I'm not tech enough but it's why I wondered if it could accommodated power/connection wise next to the current programmer or boiler?

Thx

GeForce · 11 Dec 2016 at 12:20

sharper9 said:
I'm not tech enough but it's why I wondered if it could accommodated power/connection wise next to the current programmer or boiler?

Thx

It's possible to put it anywhere you like, it's more a question of where is easiest.

If the desired location is going to involve running cables through/in walls/plaster, then it's going to be more expensive

Axeboy · 11 Dec 2016 at 12:36

Yeah, as above, its all possible

If the existing programming unit is there though, it "should" be simple enough I would have thought.

sharper9 · 11 Dec 2016 at 12:43

Axeboy said:
Yeah, as above, its all possible

If the existing programming unit is there though, it "should" be simple enough I would have thought.

That's my take, but are the power/cables needed also used by the programmer?

Then it could be spured off those wires.

Non tech remember :confused:

Amos91 · 13 Dec 2016 at 08:41

I recently bought a 3rd Gen Nest after the sales pitch from Nest staff at a recent show, however it looks a little more complex than I originally thought.

Would anyone be able to kindly provide some guidance on the wiring situation? Otherwise I best get a Nest Pro in

My current system is a boiler with hot water tank. The CH is split in to two zones (downstairs and upstairs). The upstairs thermostat works completely independently of the programmer, it switches the zone valve and turns the CH on.

Programmer

The current programmer is a Danfoss FP715SI

Thermostat x2

Danfoss RET230P

Wiring Centre in airing cupboard

Nest Installation

•One thing I'm not sure is what is best to do with the two lives, split between L & 3 on the Link?

•Will I need to bridge the existing thermostats? As they are 230V I will be powering the Nest via USB.

•To make the upstairs zone redundant, is it best to remove the wiring to the zone valve and manually keep it open?

GeForce · 13 Dec 2016 at 09:10

Amos91 said:
•One thing I'm not sure is what is best to do with the two lives, split between L & 3 on the Link?

Put both lives into the L if possible, rather than one in L and one in 5. Functionally identical but this is more typical.

Amos91 said:
•Will I need to bridge the existing thermostats? As they are 230V I will be powering the Nest via USB.

Yes. Do so at the wiring centre. Find the two cables that run from the 'stats, each will have 3 conductors. I believe this is terminals 7 and 8 in your wiring centre, where the SL from the stats (blacks) connects to the valve demand (browns), but please verify this. Find where L for the stats is currently connected (for downstairs, this will be CH ON from programmer; for upstairs, this will be permanent live).

Amos91 said:
•To make the upstairs zone redundant, is it best to remove the wiring to the zone valve and manually keep it open?

I suggest you put both valve browns into CH ON from the Nest (HeatLink terminal 3). This will effectively make the whole house one zone controlled by the Nest. Do NOT put valve brown into permanent live - if you do this the upstairs heating will be on permanently.

Amos91 · 13 Dec 2016 at 09:32

Thanks for taking the time to write those bits up GeForce.

I think on reflection wirth what you've written I best pay someone to fit it for me! Wouldn't know where to start verifying connections etc.

GeForce · 13 Dec 2016 at 09:39

Amos91 said:
I think on reflection wirth what you've written I best pay someone to fit it for me! Wouldn't know where to start verifying connections etc.

Certainly, if you're not confident about it, don't do it. I wouldn't ever try to convince someone to do this who doesn't think they can.

Normally it's just a case of bridging out the room stats, but it's a bit more complex here because one zone is programmer controlled and the other is not, meaning bridging the upstairs room stat alone won't work.

Edit: Make sure you make it clear to the installer that you want the house to become one zone, Nest controlled. Otherwise he/she may leave the upstairs as its own zone controlled by the existing stat.

Amos91 · 13 Dec 2016 at 09:44

Cheers will do. Its a right pain at the moment with it being separate and manual.

Buckster · 14 Dec 2016 at 20:14

daft question - as was considering a Nest or equivalent Thermostat

why 24V - and not 230V that could be connected directly in place of current Thermostat ?

ok without hot water - but my system has hot water on permanently

seems a lot of faff to wire up a separate box near boiler - just to effectively convert from 240V to 24V ? or am I missing something ?