I remember being told if you have to do a right hand u turn or turn into a right hand road or junction that's a sharp turn you can put your right foot down and keep left foot on peg,it makes turning a lot easier
New rider do's and dont's
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It's absolutely fine as long as you're paying attention and are prepared to slam on the anchors when some donkey pulls out without checking their mirrors, if you're not paying attention this really hurts. It's also where having a good exhaust comes in handy they've got the chance to hear as well as see you.
On the other hand without filtering my commute this morning would have taken twice as long, it's always a nice feeling just rolling past a massive line of cars stuck in a jam
Although the reaction of some drivers is comical, I was coming past the traffic today plenty of room between the lanes and I drew level with the passenger door of some little hatchback and the driver **** themselves and swerved right over to the other side of the lane.
I know my exhaust may sound a little like the rumble of a good tank but I'm not that wide!!
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Ha yeah I refuse to put a thundering exhaust on a 125 though 
The difficulty came from all of the central reservations, I didn't wanna risk not being able to pull back in.
The difficulty came from all of the central reservations, I didn't wanna risk not being able to pull back in.
Soldato
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No shame in that. Better to stay safe and arrive a few minutes later. I didn't even start filtering until post-Test and I was bimbling along the M25 in rush hour.
Filtering can be hard work, especially when you first start and there are no easy safety rules covering such a rapidly changing scenario.
Even today, there are some times when I really can't be ****** to filter. Sometimes I'm too tired, sometimes you can just tell that peoples' behaviour and attitudes mean it won't be worth the risks.
There is an advanced riding section that covers this - Basically you angle the bike as you come to a stop, check it's clear/safe to proceed, then lean it over a little bit before you move off. This helps tighten up your turn.
Not something I'd advocate for the test, though, unless your instructor specifically covers it. The technique is more riding for real than riding to pass.
Wait so there are actually people who when at the lights are not:
Clutch in.
In first.
Left foot down.
Both brakes covered.
?
You dont have your right foot down because:
A- you cant cover your rear brake.
B- you wont get your right foot run over.
C- You can drop the bike and escape OUT of the path of oncoming traffic quicker.
Clutch in.
In first.
Left foot down.
Both brakes covered.
?
You dont have your right foot down because:
A- you cant cover your rear brake.
B- you wont get your right foot run over.
C- You can drop the bike and escape OUT of the path of oncoming traffic quicker.
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Soldato
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Not as I was taught, no.
Depends on the road and the lane you're in.
Assuming you drop it to the left and your body goes towards the left, if you're in the left lane...
The wind might blow you over, you may be in a different lane with different lights (on the Reading IDR or the A33/J11 roundabout, for example), traffic in the next lane may be moving from behind you, etc etc...
Cover the brakes only in particularly hazardous situations, but this will come with experience
Everything except for the above imo.
I was always told off by my instructor for covering the brake (too many years mountain biking with 1 finger over each lever).
Plus you don't want to be grabbing at the front brake if you've got any steering input.
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Do you know which gear you're in ie. do you specifically count as you go up/down the gears? 1st is a different sort of clunk so that's obvious and it's also obvious when I'm in top- 8krpm @60MPH. But I have found myself kind of caught out by not knowing how many clicks 1st is for example.
nah, but you get familiar with the revs to speed in certain gears.
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Assumed as much
When is the garage yesterday waiting for the service, I was sat opposite this monster. So much want but so little need lol
A lot of nice bikes in there, used bikes don't seem too expensive either IMO, the killer is the DAS
When is the garage yesterday waiting for the service, I was sat opposite this monster. So much want but so little need lol
A lot of nice bikes in there, used bikes don't seem too expensive either IMO, the killer is the DAS
Assumed as much
When is the garage yesterday waiting for the service, I was sat opposite this monster. So much want but so little need lol
A lot of nice bikes in there, used bikes don't seem too expensive either IMO, the killer is the DAS
2.5k will get you all the 186mph hilarity you want
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2.5k will get you all the 186mph hilarity you want
Have you been that fast?
What advantages do 6/700's have over 1000cc+ Even if the smaller bikes are as fast surely the 1000cc's are less effort?
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Erm... none.
for IL4 engines a typical 600ccc bike will be around 90-110BHP, whereas a 1000cc bike can be anywhere from 140-200bhp. 600's tend to have not much power low down, say under 6k rpm where as 1000cc bikes have bags of power and torque low down.For v-twins - 750cc (the equivalent of 600cc in an IL4) they'll have a fair bit of low down torque but less top end, but a 1200cc v-twin (again, equivalent to a litre IL4 engine) will have insane amounts of low down torque, and bags of top end power.
Oh and 1st gear redline on a litre bike will be anywhere from 70-90mph.
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So the 6's are faster or just more drama?
Edit, just seen TallPaul's post...
Edit, just seen TallPaul's post...
the thou's are verynice for sheer grunt and torque,i managed 170mph on mine but didn't really push it,its just effortless to ride
a 600 gives you more to do in thinking about what gear to be in approaching a corner as if its to high it will bog down,a thou you don't have to worry it will just pull in any gear
you have to keep the speed/momentum going on a 600
a 600 gives you more to do in thinking about what gear to be in approaching a corner as if its to high it will bog down,a thou you don't have to worry it will just pull in any gear
you have to keep the speed/momentum going on a 600
one key thing to rember
"it's more fun to drive something slow fast, than to drive something fast slow"
lot of my mates are moving from their liter super bikes to old 400cc sports bikes for the hilarity off racing up an down the gears in the twisties instead of just sitting in 2nd/3rd the whole time
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No no, 600cc is smaller than 1000cc. less capacity generally means less power. A litre bike isn;t a wise choice until you have a year or 2 experience under your belt, a 600cc and 1000cc bike will both do 0-60 in around 3-3.5 seconds, it's the torque where they differ.
Stop thinking engine size and think more of power being the difference.
Stop thinking engine size and think more of power being the difference.
Have you been that fast?
What advantages do 6/700's have over 1000cc+ Even if the smaller bikes are as fast surely the 1000cc's are less effort?
nah fastestet was my r6 which topped out at 160.
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one key thing to rember
"it's more fun to drive something slow fast, than to drive something fast slow"
lot of my mates are moving from their liter super bikes to old 400cc sports bikes for the hilarity off racing up an down the gears in the twisties instead of just sitting in 2nd/3rd the whole time
Yep - (as a 400cc rider myself
) you can't ride litre sports bikes anywhere near the limit on the road, 2nd gear redline would be jailtime if caught.800-1200cc v-twin's and 400-600cc inline 4's are where the fun is at