O11 Dynamic XL On Steroids

Just ordered a 1cm x 11.8cm x 6cm Black Perspex to bolt onto the PCIE Slot Brackets to add extra support for the passthrough. Two holes will need to be cut in addition to the 4 or 6 bolt holes. One for the pass through and the other for the Molex, pump and fan cables. Will hopefully arrive by the end of the week.
 
There's a few options though can't test any of these at the moment
Icue-- not sure it will if your using motherboard
Temperature header though most likely will do if
you have a commander pro
My commander pro isnt installed currently so can't check

Motherboard software
Usually allows control of some sort
But not all will do it based on coolant temperature
My crosshair viii extreme software allows
T sensor
Water in t sensor
Water out t sensor
Wb in t sensor
Wb out in t sensor

Free software simply called fan control
Not a very inventive name lol
Though doesn't seem to work with every motherboard
Last I tried it didn't detect all my stuff
But have heard it does support coolant temperature
Though can't personally confirm it
Ill be looking at installing the 3 temperature probes into the Commander pro.
 
You probably could have avoided drilling holes in your case, when i had the O11D i did this this way to get external tubing runs.

I never knew that existed. I wonder if that lines up with the EK Distroplate. Could you give me the name of thet please. Thanks
 
Last edited:
Yeah its super handy to have, it will fit in any pcie slot on your case so it might do? I don't have the distro or the case anymore to test it for you unfortunately.

KOOLANCE PCI SLOT BRACKET WITH 2 G1 / 4 INCH PORTS​

In stock but i can't link it, its about £20.

I used fittings on one side to connect the tubing in the case then QD's on the other end for easy removal and maintenance. Worked a treat!
Thanks Jay,

Ordered it. Ill stick with the drilled IN port, but this looks like a much better option for the OUT port. Looking at the picture it seems to line up, but can't hurt to find out for sure.
 
Last edited:
In fact I may actually be able to connect it to a 90 degree adapter which will make removing the tube easier instead of being wedged in between each side.
 
Something like this:



Or a micro fitting if you're tight for space.

Yeah, I have a load of old fittings like this I can have a play around with. There will be a solution with his. Its all part of the fun working it out :D
 
Received the PCIE slot pass through today and disappointingly worked out the solution in 2 minutes. Was hoping for a bit of a challenge :cry:

HFI8Nt4l.jpg

FIn8SrWl.jpg

The first method I tried was to use a micro 90 degree to 90 degree. Should have used a flash on the phone for a clearer picture.

2R6xNd1h.jpg

MrKy0Gnh.jpg

The solution I went with was using an offset adapter which lines up well enough. You would have to have an extremely keen eye or measurement tools to work out its not a perfect line up.

lHQDOOWh.jpg

C2kf1qbh.jpg

1vcqAJfh.jpg
Still waiting for the motherboard. In the meantime Decided to change the case fans from the Corsair QL120s to the Lian Li Uni Fan Infinity SL120s. My plan is to control the RGB through the L-Connect 3 software and the fan speed via the Corsair commander pro using the optional fan pass through on the L-Connect controller. Hoping this works as there is no configuration explaining this on the internet. Ill have to do a bit of out of case testing to get the right combo working I think.
 
I'll leave this here...and try not to look smug :p:D Although, to be fair, he does have a distro in there.

You might even be able to swap out the pass-throughs that are in that plate (unless they're a smaller bore to fit the plate) so they look the same as the one in the case.

Unfortunately the pass-throughs are much smaller than the Bitspower one im using below.

ncxrRRrl.jpg

Just ordered this as its a 7mm offset rather than the 5mm Bitspower offset I tested with just now. It should be enough to line it up better. I needed to order another one anyway due to that offset already being allocated for the GPU block to distroplate.

 
Last edited:
Comes in damn handy right lol! Much cleaner too, i would be tempted to spray paint it matte black to suit and blend it in with the rest of your case setup.
I was thinking the same thing! Will have to try find a suitable spray paint.
 
Last edited:
Barrow do a 6mm offset....just in case the sweet spot lies right between the two you have.
The other thing you could do is drill a hole in one of the blank PCI plates for the case - assuming they're not too flimsy. That way you'd only have the one hole, it'd be where you need it to be - at least left to right - and it'd already be the right colour. Depends if you have a step drill of the right size for the pass-throughs though.
Someone recommended Wilko's satin black spray paint as one of the best matches. It's worked quite well for me on various bits (a rad for example) and it doesn't clog after the first time you've used it. Primer would definitely be good under it if the surface is as shiny as it looks.
I think its at least 2mm off so Im hoping this will do the trick.
Im not too fussed about matching pass throughs as the back of the case can't be seen and only one of the pass throughs will be visible when looking through the front panel.
Unfortunately I don't have access to Halfords and they won't deliver to where I am, so will look into the Walk Black Satin. Will I need a Primer too? I haven't ventured into the painting side of things.

My radiators could do with a freshening up too so will be an interesting project while I wait endlessly for this Apex to arrive.
 
Got some spray painting going and ended up with this. Not the best, but will do for a first try. Covered the tops as I didn't want any paint internally.

ulQMn8rh.jpg

PdjEvxPh.jpg
Currently re-working the MO-RA as the NZXT AER fans do not play well in PWM with the Active Splitty9. So changing them out with the spare Corsair QL120's I have. Ill go for a push pull this time with 18 of them.
ill post picks of the progress.
 
18 fans? I'm not sure you're really getting into the overkill spirit! ;) :p :D
The QL120s aren't the best radiator fans, plus I have them so may swell use them. Main reason I didn't go for a 420 as I have so many 120mm fans lying around in the loft collecting dust.
 
Thanks for the offer mate. I think im on an overkill of cooling now as it is :cry:.

I won't be turning any of the RGB on in the MO-RA. Part of the challenge with those fans is hiding the RGB cables as they'll be 36 of them to manage!
Will see about the 10m tubing. I may only need 3m on each side, plus I have a fair few spare pumps to use if necessary. It will all be temporary anyway as day to day use Ill be using those sleeved one which run fine.
 
Last edited:
Back to the drawing board with the Mo-Ra3. The good News is most of the parts have arrived to update it and finally the Z790 Apex has been dispatched!.

Back to square one!

mvzUtp5l.jpg

Just testing the fans today.

UlOjwQCl.jpg

OLhThIfl.jpg

MaIntnel.jpg

quick comparison between Corsair QL120 and Phantek T30

OzCXogql.jpg

9 working fine with PWM on an active spltty9. I will use 3 of there splitty9 headers per 9 fans and 2 active splitty9s over 18 fans in total.

VxBpv21l.jpg

I did get it working daisy chaining 9 fans at 3000 rpm onto one header, but felt unsure about the safety of it so split it to 3 per header.
Overall Ill have 9 fans per splitter connected to 1 molex which can handle 150+ watts so should be fine.
 
Last edited:
From a purely logical point of view, when would it make sense to be controlling say three of the fans out of 18? Surely the logical grouping is either 'all 18’ or two banks or 9?
Can't be certain from the pic but I think only the Aquaero 6 came with a blue LEDs option, and that can take all 18 daisy-chained off one header by itself, let alone with Splittys. Were it me, I'd be more relaxed about whether it can handle it (it can) and decide based on the logical control groups you want to achieve and what makes wiring the simplest/neatest.
However - unlike how I did it - I'd suggest that you try to keep a standard tail on each fan. Partly to avoid the work in the first place but mainly because if you get a fan failure (and you're statistically more likely given your 18 to my 4!), you want to ve able to just drop in a replacement rather than dig out a soldering iron or pin crimper!
The grouping is only for power. They're grouped into 3, daisy chained as this is the fans design. By default they're meant to be daisy chained. Im not modding anything here :cry:
Im using 2 splitty9s as 1 Sata power connector is capable of around 55 watts and 18 of these will draw over 70 (on startup). The Aquaero is only being used for testing purposes. I won't be using it in my main build and its purely controlling the PWM. All 18 will be controlled by 1 PWM connector since no power is being used here and all fans will operate at the same speed.
 
Back
Top Bottom