Opinions on Mitsubishi FTO
- Thread starter Mr_T
- Start date
Not as fast as it would appear and stupidly expensive to insure for what it is iirc. Was tempted to get one but insurance was a joke. They're all imports (bar a few later models) which is why they're so bad on insurance.
I'd only look at Mivec's and manuals if possible.
There's a couple of owners who I'm sure will be able to give more details.
I'd only look at Mivec's and manuals if possible.
There's a couple of owners who I'm sure will be able to give more details.
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As TripleT said, insurance is ridiculously high on them for their relative performance - Skyline/Evo insurance costs for Prelude/Celica performance levels.
They do look nice - and I'd still like one, but only the 2.0 V6 with MIVEC, and a manual. The auto/tiptronic boxes take too much of the power.
Have a look at a Prelude VTEC as an alternative for similar performance but much lower costs!
They do look nice - and I'd still like one, but only the 2.0 V6 with MIVEC, and a manual. The auto/tiptronic boxes take too much of the power.
Have a look at a Prelude VTEC as an alternative for similar performance but much lower costs!
Ok, are the Autos that bad? The reason I was looking at an auto is because 60% of my driving is stop start traffic 
This is the motor I'm going to see...
http://atsearch.autotrader.co.uk/ww...category=CARS&channel=CARS&id=200720285297264
This is the motor I'm going to see...
http://atsearch.autotrader.co.uk/ww...category=CARS&channel=CARS&id=200720285297264
TripleT said:Who's the policy under? Isn't it your Mum? Going to be a huge difference in price for the OP. My mum or dad can insure near enough anything for sub £500
Yea, its my Mums. Which is great becuase it means I can drive it under DOC on my insurance
Or at least I could if it hadn't been sitting in the garage with a broken alternator for months.
My dad can fully comp insure my car for £182 with favourable mileage on a 10 month bonus acceleratorTripleT said:Who's the policy under? Isn't it your Mum? Going to be a huge difference in price for the OP. My mum or dad can insure near enough anything for sub £500
Ok, well I'll go and have a look at this one too, its a bit higher mileage though.
http://atsearch.autotrader.co.uk/ww...category=CARS&channel=CARS&id=200723105459125
http://atsearch.autotrader.co.uk/ww...category=CARS&channel=CARS&id=200723105459125
The mileage on most FTO's is inaccurate. They are all (With the exception of a small number of GPX's brought over by Ralliart in 1999-2002) imports and will all have begun their lives counting up in km.
They are converted to mph when they imported but the existing reading on the speedo remains, and simply counts up in miles instead.
So, if a car has 50k on it when it comes into the country, thats 50k kilometres. If it then covers 50k miles, it will show 100k on the speedo but it hasn't covered 100k miles.
They are converted to mph when they imported but the existing reading on the speedo remains, and simply counts up in miles instead.
So, if a car has 50k on it when it comes into the country, thats 50k kilometres. If it then covers 50k miles, it will show 100k on the speedo but it hasn't covered 100k miles.
My girlfriend bought a 95 GPX mivec manual a month ago.
If i'd have know half of what I know i wouldn't have even bothered taking it for a test drive
check out www.ftooc.org there are a few "what to look for" threads which are well worth checking out.
The one we bought had not long been through the Isle of Man vehicle test (one off for cars being brought to the island, like an MOT) so we took that as a good sign plus i was buying it off a supposed mate of 10 years.
I have found some rot in the rear chassis legs where the upper arm connects on both side which we have been quoted £600 to fix, its pretty bad and is an area where they are prone to rusting.
Go see http://www.ftooc.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=54296 which is the ftooc buyers guide.
Quick checklist from my experience
Exhaust, check front flexi pipe, any slight blowing and you're looking at £300 for the parts for just that bit.
Central locking, there is a cheap fix using a pair of motors from ****** which i had to do to ours.
Oil leak around rear cylinder head and down onto the sump. this is the rear cam carriers which are a pig to fix. i've been quoted min £300 to fix ours.
Anti roll bar drop links, the ones on ours had just been done, however the caber/toe bolts at the rear were seized (which i found out from a garage the previous owner had been told needed sorting) which are on my "to do" list.
Rust in the engine bay on the left and right side (top of the wheel arch) this seems to happen to them all.
Drivers seat bolster, it will be worn
These are a few of the probs i've had and hope it will give you an idea so you dont end up with a new car you love which you end up hating after a few weeks and facing a bill which is nearly what you paid for the car.
On the good side it goes like stink, handles well and get lots of admirig looks
Love to hate it
If i'd have know half of what I know i wouldn't have even bothered taking it for a test drive
check out www.ftooc.org there are a few "what to look for" threads which are well worth checking out.
The one we bought had not long been through the Isle of Man vehicle test (one off for cars being brought to the island, like an MOT) so we took that as a good sign plus i was buying it off a supposed mate of 10 years.
I have found some rot in the rear chassis legs where the upper arm connects on both side which we have been quoted £600 to fix, its pretty bad and is an area where they are prone to rusting.
Go see http://www.ftooc.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=54296 which is the ftooc buyers guide.
Quick checklist from my experience
Exhaust, check front flexi pipe, any slight blowing and you're looking at £300 for the parts for just that bit.
Central locking, there is a cheap fix using a pair of motors from ****** which i had to do to ours.
Oil leak around rear cylinder head and down onto the sump. this is the rear cam carriers which are a pig to fix. i've been quoted min £300 to fix ours.
Anti roll bar drop links, the ones on ours had just been done, however the caber/toe bolts at the rear were seized (which i found out from a garage the previous owner had been told needed sorting) which are on my "to do" list.
Rust in the engine bay on the left and right side (top of the wheel arch) this seems to happen to them all.
Drivers seat bolster, it will be worn
These are a few of the probs i've had and hope it will give you an idea so you dont end up with a new car you love which you end up hating after a few weeks and facing a bill which is nearly what you paid for the car.
On the good side it goes like stink, handles well and get lots of admirig looks
Love to hate it 