Originality versus Full Restoration

Gamefreak501

Gamefreak501

Gamefreak501

Soldato
Joined
7 Aug 2003
Posts
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Location
Bedfordshire
Hi everyone,

I have owned my 1980 Spitfire 1500 for some six or seven months.

Only recently, (a week) has it been kept in a garage.

Sadly, the rust has taken it's toll and the poor car has serious cancer in places.

I also managed to knock little chunks off the rear left wing and the right front wing in a low speed collision with jutting pieces of garage I didn't notice as I was putting it in. However, it seems those panels may be rusting from the inside out anyway.

Anyway, I have been advised to keep it as original as possible - i.e. keep the standard mild steel exhaust, keep the rusty panels but do the whole 'remove rust, fill in holes in and then respray thing' instead of replacing all the affected panels which is they way I would prefer. I have been told that in the next few years, should I decide to sell it, this will keep the value more.

I will post some pics of the damage in a day or so when I get the anti-freeze in the car tomorrow morning.

Thanks in advance!
 
it seems those panels may be rusting from the inside out anyway.
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If they're rusting from the inside out, that's bad news as it's hard to treat. I'd simply bin the panels and get new ones.

Anyway, I have been advised to keep it as original as possible
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Unless you want to keep it standard, DON'T. There are plenty of Spitfires out there and most buyers will be looking for suitably modified, reliable and gently tweaked cars suitable for modern traffic. Very few people give a toss if it's got an 'original mild steel exhaust'. Things like this are easily put back anyway and it's the condition of the shell, interior, chassis and paint that is more important.

They will buy the car on these four basic elements as they will well know that everything else can be undone. In instances like this also, a well modified car can attain more money than a standard one.

keep the rusty panels but do the whole 'remove rust, fill in holes in and then respray thing' instead of replacing all the affected panels
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As you say, put new panels on. No one is going to care unless they're really being picky. I'd prefer straight, clean, solid panels as opposed to bodged, filled and damaged wobbly original stuff. So will prospective buyers. Once you start tearing stuff off you'll only find more corrosion so for best results and to guarantee some decent life from the car the best option is to just bin any damaged stuff and start from scratch :)

A Spitfire with straight, fresh presentable bodywork is going to be worth more than one that's been hacked about, fiddled with to get right, had fresh metal put in and so on. Also, with new panels you have less chance of rust reappearing around the repairs.

Just my 0.2c :)
 
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Lashout_UK said:
If they're rusting from the inside out, that's bad news as it's hard to treat. I'd simply bin the panels and get new ones.



Unless you want to keep it standard, DON'T. There are plenty of Spitfires out there and most buyers will be looking for suitably modified, reliable and gently tweaked cars suitable for modern traffic. Very few people give a toss if it's got an 'original mild steel exhaust'. Things like this are easily put back anyway and it's the condition of the shell, interior, chassis and paint that is more important.

They will buy the car on these four basic elements as they will well know that everything else can be undone. In instances like this also, a well modified car can attain more money than a standard one.



As you say, put new panels on. No one is going to care unless they're really being picky. I'd prefer straight, clean, solid panels as opposed to bodged, filled and damaged wobbly original stuff. So will prospective buyers. Once you start tearing stuff off you'll only find more corrosion so for best results and to guarantee some decent life from the car the best option is to just bin any damaged stuff and start from scratch :)

A Spitfire with straight, fresh presentable bodywork is going to be worth more than one that's been hacked about, fiddled with to get right, had fresh metal put in and so on. Also, with new panels you have less chance of rust reappearing around the repairs.

Just my 0.2c :)
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I am in full agreement with you there!

The 'quick' job has been quoted for £1500 but that's a hell of a lot of money to come up with. Panels are like £55-£400 each but will be 'pristine' I suppose. Although, the panels are normally welded together and bolted to the chassis, I don't know how to weld and I don't have the equipment either :(
 
At the end of the day it depends on two things: Time and money. If you have time then by all means repair the original ones yourself with new steel. It'll take a long time but not cost much. If you have money and are paying someone else to do it then it will almost certainly work out cheaper to use new panels, unlss the panels are ridiculously expensive.

You'll never get your money back in classic cars unless you do the work yourself.

I tend to repair anything that is out of view and buy new for external panels as they are harder to get looking nice. Don't forget about repair sections, like say the back edge of the wing rots out they normally supply just the rear 4" section.
 
Sort the chassis rust out, get it mint underneath and keep the panels as they are for the time being.

Spray this on the driver's door:

pinupstencilhj7.gif


Then, when you get bored, fit new panels.

;)

*n
 
Racing spots are also amazingly effective at hiding bad panels and distracting the eye from rust :D
 
Hey everyone,

As promised, I have some pics of my car. These are the 'worst' bits. There is rust on a lot of the car though.

http://www.dpw-photography.co.uk/PoorSpitfire/

I am thinking of restoring it from the chassis up to be honest. Of course, that doesn't make much sense financially, but I feel like the challenge! Plus I will be well pleased to get it to 100% :)
 
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It's not that bad! I've seen newer cars in worse condition.

I can't see this "rotting from the inside" on these pics. It looks like it wants a few welded patches and a whole rubbing down and prepping followed by a good respray.

The undercarraige of my 2002 Pug 206 looks rustier than your undercarraige. Reminds me of when my mother used to drive a gold and black Mk1 Fiesta with panels you could see daylight through! "Don't put your foot near that hole" "No! we're not The Flintstones!"

I can see why you would want to strip it back and start from there. You never know what's lurking behind the bodywork. I would be the same. It may cost you money and a lot of time but the satisfaction and unique touches you could get from the end product are always worth it.

I'm waiting for my girlfriend to get tired of her 22k J reg Metro so I can do naughty things to it.
 
replacing panels will not affect it's price, as long as there the same material. Ie not fiibergalss. Once rust gets to a certain stage it is MUCH easier to replace the complete panel otherwise you end up cutting half of it away. Just to get back to clean metal. Trust me I'm a rust expert now :p...

If I could, I would have replaced whole panels/sills ect. Unfortunately the one year and sub model I buy there's no direct copies you can buy :(.

The important things is matching numbers on engine/chassis, original interiors, no mods.
 
Hey everyone,

An update!

I have worked out that I will be replacing the following:

Rear Wings
Front Wings
Door Skins
Outer sills
Front 1/4 Valances

I think I am going to start with the front 1/4 Valances as they will be the easiest to replace and are in bad shape, before going to the front wings, outer sills, door skins and a rear wing.

I am not sure if I will be able to create an even finish, so perhaps I am better off priming each panel and then when it's all been replaced, spray the whole lot?

I will need to learn how to mig weld and spot weld for all but the Front 1/4 valances replacement, Fun!

I want to also take the body off the chassis, before all this, so I can recondition it.

Do you reckon I am going about this the right way? I recently got a Restoration manual specifically for my car by Haynes that goes through full mechanical and body restoration and has a little on paint work. Another manual I am expecting soon is going to go into painting into much more depth.
 
Learn to weld on bits you can't see rather than starting on any exterior panels - panels also tend to be thinner gauge steel which is easier to warp.
 
Hey everyone,

Cheers for your responses.

There is an 'art' to welding and spraying...just hoping I am up to it. Welding is very important for the MOT - I have read about that a few times already, but I wouldn't mind doing it myself but another part of me wants a professional to do it, although it will probably cost in the region of £400 which might be better spent on my rear wings or my boot lid (I forgot to mention that one!), but I don't know really!

Tomorrow I am going to remvoe my front 1/4 valances I reckon, they're just bolted onto the chassis and the other panels and I have a spanner and some screw drivers lying around and some WD-40 in case something is a bit stubborn. I will practice the rubbing down, spraying/priming on my old valance so I can get some practice for the other panels :)
 
well I'm trying to learn, I still can't do anything other than hidden panels eg floor.

visible body panels really do need to be neat, thin panels are easy to warp even with a mig if your welding to semi solid metal you will also burn a lot of holes though it. Then anything structural needs to pass MOT..

Welding really isn't easy. Really do consider weather you have the time and skill to do it, otherwise spend the money.
 
I am going to start by rubbing down some of the panels.

Especially the left wing, door wing and outer sills. Any tips on getting a good finish going?

Is an angle grinder the best way (I haven't actually used one before!) then is it just a case of getting to the bare metal, priming it, priming it again, rubbing it down a little to get it really smooth so it's ready for spraying?
 
Gamefreak501 said:
I am going to start by rubbing down some of the panels.

Especially the left wing, door wing and outer sills. Any tips on getting a good finish going?

Is an angle grinder the best way (I haven't actually used one before!) then is it just a case of getting to the bare metal, priming it, priming it again, rubbing it down a little to get it really smooth so it's ready for spraying?
Click to expand...

Personally I wouldnt start thinking about prepping for paint until you have done all the bodywork repairs.
Ive always used an orbital sander for paint prep, though have used an angle grinder on welds etc - I think a sanding disc on an AG would be a bit rough!!
Are you spraying yourself, if not it would be wise to make sure whatever you prime with is compatible with the top coat.
 
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