Yeah but yellow does not work so well on it and the wheels would need to be black.
The spec is however superb but it just needs buckets to be perfect and aero-kit, or in a more normal colour to work.
The price however, we will skip on that.
Porsche Owners Thread - If you own one or just like or hate them! :)
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Yeah but yellow does not work so well on it and the wheels would need to be black.
The spec is however superb but it just needs buckets to be perfect and aero-kit, or in a more normal colour to work.
The price however, we will skip on that.
Yeah but as we know, options make a Porsche and can vastly change the way it drives.
C2S that have a more driver/sporty focused spec always sell for far more than a base spec in the same car, simply because some 911 buyers are posers and others drivers. GT3's are insane money so they want a C2S which delivers as close as possible to the GT3 experience and ability, a C2S in the right specification gets close.
But you pays your price!
I shall be advertising my 911 soon maybe, no idea what price to pitch it at yet, thinking 34k, 2006 car (55 plate), 55,000 miles, FPSH, Boroscope inspection and clean, GT3 suspension, X51 power upgrades, ceramics, custom extra leather interior.
Just in two minds, do I leave the remap, high-flow cats and alcantera wheel/shift knob in it or remove them as sell it stock. I am inclined to remove the parts as they will fetch me over a grand selling them and any potential buyer could be scared away with modifications which are not Porsche parts, so think I shall restore and only leave the Porsche upgrades on it.
That 38k C4S 2008 with nearly similar spec looks like it went. The fact GT3's got so damn expensive has really helped boost the value of my car, at this rate I will lose very little in 4 years ownership, can't grumble.
Yeah will remove my bits and just leave the Porsche upgrades and GT3 parts on it.
The end of the day I will be appealing to the person who wants a proper sorted 911 in excellent condition.
Looks stunning car buddy.
You will find once your use to it how capable Porsches are in the wet, the 911 never ceases to amaze me with it wet handling ability.
Looks great and you'll have a lot of fun in that the 981 chassis is amazing.
You will find once your use to it how capable Porsches are in the wet, the 911 never ceases to amaze me with it wet handling ability.
Looks great and you'll have a lot of fun in that the 981 chassis is amazing.
[RXP]Andy;27720859 said:I don't think the colour works very well on that car, I needs to be a lighter colour IMO.
I've done some cleaning today, I did go to get some pictures and then it chucked it down. So put it in the garage quickly.
I did get a few pictures:
I love how when the sun hits the car now its super clean, there is a very subtle hint of blue / grey in the paint.
Love it, perfect spec, how you finding ceramics, bear in mind on cold/wet days or after a wash they do not work on the first couple of applications so be warned. But in dry or after a couple of pedal efforts they are so feelsome and so damn smooth and quiet. You will love the no dust.
If you ever do a track day, with ceramics you need to brake as hard as you can, do not be gentle, it destroys them, I found out the hard way and its a good £5000+ bill from Porsche for new front disc or more.
Ceramics will never fade but they absolutely hate heat, it delaminates them, this is why GT3 boys remove them and put steels on for track days if tracking a lot. Unless they have deep pockets and don't care, quite of a few of them, I met a GT3 owner who changed his front ceramics every few track days as he could not drive and was killing them, but he was like it's only 5k a time and it's only money.....
So if you do a track day keep heat levels down and you will create less heat by braking for less time, so be firm but harsh or as an instructor would say absolutely mash the brake pedal progressively.
Being gentle and not applying the brakes 100% before abs interaction destroys ceramics! leaving traction control on can also destroy them on track usage as well.
So apply the brake pedal smoothly but be at full braking potential within a second and stand on them, they will be better for it and you will be amazed how quick a Porsche will slow from 150mph down to 50mph and do it all day (with breaks) on ceramics without fade, rough pedal or squealing.
Follow the above and if you do just 1-2 track days a year you will find the disc will be good for ten years and the pads will last around 20-30k miles a set.
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Porsche said sub 7:40 they've not released an official time, the new GT3 RS is 7:20, so it's somewhere between, unless there has since being an official update?
Also 10s is a huge amount faster on a lap, F1 drivers make others look slow with just hundreds of a second between them.
Or another way of looking at it means that around every 45 laps the 10s per lap slower car would be lapped.
But in all honesty it seems the 7:30-8:00 lap time is full of very quick cars but little separating them, for instance an M3 CSL is 7:50 from ten years ago on cups, a C2S 997 is 7:50 on normal road tyres and the new C2S is sub 7:40 so I think the GT4 is a lot lot faster than Porsche are claiming I mean surely it's quicker than regular C2S on road tyres considering the GT4 is lighter as powerful and I believe was shod in cup 2 tyres. Either 911's hold quite the advantage over the Cayman at the ring due to better high speed stability or Porsche are being very conservative on the GT4's lap time as they don't want to hurt 911 sales, who knows.
But also who cares, drive a front wheel drive turbo well setup hot hatch. Then drive a mid engined rear wheel drive NA car. Sorry one will feel good the other will feel absolutely amazing by comparison, lap times are not everything.
P.S. The Type R which did the ring time was not production either, rumours of cage, blah blah so production car potentially slower, naughty from Honda if so. Who knows what else they changed which the production car now does not have?
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Dude are you for real? A 911 looks dated, absolute rubbish. All 911's are iconic and have not aged in last 50 years, only questionable one was 996 with yuck headlights.
Dr house is spot on buy a 997.2 C2S with a sporty spec, 45k would get you an incredible car for the money and the 997.2 is arguable a better drive than the newer larger 991 variation.
Also Boxster or Cayman 2.7 version although are huge fun and you have to absolutely thrash them which is part of the fun the lack of performance quickly can become an issue, if your doing Cayman for the money your spending either get a 987.2 Cayman S or wait another 12 months and see if the new generation Cayman drops into your budget as the 981 Cayman and Boxster are a huge step up from the previous gen. Essentially the previous gen was handicapped on purpose by Porsche so the 911 had a big edge, with the new 981 they allowed it to get far closer to the 911 if not on parr.
But I'm with Dr House, a 911 at 45k is the ultimate buy and in 5 years you can bet a decent 997.2 C2S with right spec won't depreciate much, infact most good ones are appreciating, whereas a Cayman will keep dropping.
Yes at 2k more it's a far superior car buy that, but not a 2.7!
I like the cayman's as I think they are beautiful and modern, great looking inside, fast with sensible running costs. As I intend to use it daily and I do around 20k miles a year it will be cheaper to run than a 911. MPG, Servicing and insurance will be less. I also feel the Cayman is light and simple to handle which is good as my old man will drive it sometimes and he hates sports cars
Coupled with the fact that I'm after a huge spec there is no way id get a new 911 anywhere near my 45K budget.
The 2.7 blue Cayman iv found really does have the perfect spec and I LOVE the blue and beige interior. Just a shame its the standard Cayman not the S. Im concerned that after a few months il wish Id brought the S.
To be honest my brain is telling me get the 2.7 iv found as it seems a great buy and I love the spec and colours. Heart keeps telling me to buy S just for its 0-60 stats!
Forget the 0-60, the actual 2.7l is fine 0-60 won't feel slow at all. The problem with the 2.7 is when you boot it at 50mph upto 100mph it was be considerably slower than the 3.4l S version. Also the S has a lot more torque so has far superior in-gear acceleration.
Never compromise on the engine, that should be the most important aspect of your purchase.
I've done over 170mph on public roads, was perfectly safe and legal, it felt brilliant.
Point is 2.7l is slow, full stop, the 3.4s is hugely faster everywhere and very noticeable.
My point also is everyone breaks the speed limit, everyone and people in fast cars do it often if not daily if conditions allow.
1. I am not being an ass but you will want more power from first month, the 2.7 is a slow car, I mean come on 0-100mph is like 15s area, pretty much every hot hatch on the market is faster and the big power luxo barges are faster again. 40-80mph in a Cayman S is effortless in any gear, in the 2.7 you need to rag it and even then it is slower.
Avoid the 2.7 or even better still why don't you go and get extended test drives in both Caymans with different engines, Porsche are very accommodating, when I was buying my 911 I test drove several and dealerships were happy for you to try a couple of cars and most the time they just scan your license and hand you the keys.
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That will feel quicker than the 2.7 to be honest due to the torque, though the 2.7 is quicker car, but if you want to feel faster as well you need the 3.4S.
P.S. My 911 is my first Porsche, for me the crucial points for purchase was aerokit, sports chrono, PSE, 2006 build car or newer.
[TW]Fox;27737931 said:
Having driven a 2012 C220 and a 2.7 Cayman admittedly 987 the torque gave the Merc a false feeling of being much quicker than it was, I did say the Cayman was the quicker car and the new 981 more so. But to the point the 3.4s is a far far quicker car than them both in both feel and reality.
Not really.
Seriously stop looking at 0-60 it's the worlds worse benchmark for cars as you hardly ever do it. Look at the imprezas of old, 5s to 60 and everyone was like omg these are so quick, yet Honda Civic Type R's with 6s or slower 0-60 were overtaking the imprezas in real world driving conditions and Toyota Supra twin turbo with same 0-60 time as Impreza but I reality the Impreza was not remotely close.
30-130mph is best stat, but no one does that as Illegal but 30-70mph and 0-100mph along with 1/4 mile give a far truer representation of a cars performance.
If you want incredible A-B progress, sure footedness and insane performance, you will buy it!
In fact I'd go as far as saying 996 Turbo and 997.1 Turbo with manual were the best 911 turbo's in recent years, though 993 Turbo is also truly fantastic.
For me the 997.2 I found it very insanely fast, bonkers infact but I never one bit felt scared, challenged or like I was going to die, this is not how a 911 should feel.
[RXP]Andy;27803844 said:I was at my local OPC today, as the clock (hour hand) on my sports chrono has stopped working and also had a few odd messages come up on the MFD. So they are going to get that replaced for me and checked out all the other stuff. They even washed the car for me, so pretty happy with that. I also asked about retro fitting the home link and reversing camera which unfortunately they can't do.
While I was there I was having a look around and they have a GT2RS and a GT3 side by side. WOW. They have soo much presence in real life it's unreal.
Also next to Porsche is Ferrari / Maserati which I had a quick nose about and some lucky person is collecting a 15 plate F12.
I have been meaning to write a complete review on the car but I'll give it a little bit more time yet. However, what I do need to do is record the sound this car makes as it's soo god damm addictive. The car still brings a smile to my face every time its driven about, as it feels alive to me. I am also shocked how much attention the car gets.
Why I wanted a 911, the presence on the road is on another scale, even more so with GT 911 cars. Plus I also enjoy the 911 driving experience more even though its not to everyone taste. But admittedly I do love jumping in a Boxster or Cayman from time to time as I find I become a complete hooligan in those due to the mid-engine and balance of the car, just lets you do very naughty stuff that the 911 does not I find.
You will love a 996 or early 997 then, they do that with ease but at the same time still have great feel.
The 997.2 and newer almost seem invincible, you can do silly silly things even in the worse of road conditions and it stays on black stuff. Of course though no car is crash proof if your an absolute moron behind the wheel.
The 2.7 is slow but has incredible handling and is a pretty solid all round motor, IMS failure is incredibly rare and even though it suffers from bore scoring it does not to anywhere near the level of the bigger 3.2/3.4 version. Apart from that check condition of radiators and when coil packs were last changed.
If going to the S variant, highly recommended by the way then of course the risk of IMS/Bore scoring increases. IMS is very rare, Hartech reckon IMS failure effects something like 0.2% of cars and generally any car with over 50,000 miles if very unlikely to ever suffer such a failure as the seal would have worn down by then and will be lubricated by engine oil, for a more in depth explanation give them a call.
Bore scoring is the worse enemy of the gen 1 cars, particular the 3.2, 3.4 and 3.8l engine but engine you can avoid it, by getting a boroscope before purchase, any competent garage can do this, just need the car on a ramp, take the plugs out and stick a camera down the holes, also good for viewing spark plug condition and coil packs whilst at as a spark plugs condition can tell you a lot about an engine and how it was driven. Most owners should be accommodating of such an inspection, especially an enthusiast as long as your paying for the owners petrol and cost of the work even if you don't buy the car I think is fair.
Once you have a car that is score free I feel I have pretty much discovered how to prevent it:
- Change oil with Porsche Spec Mobil One 0W-40 every 6000 miles
- Only fill with Vpower, Nitro, Optimax whatever Shell call it
- Keep revs under 3000rpm until water is nominal temp
- Keep revs under 4000rpm until oil is upto 90c (nominal temp)
- Use the car at least weekly, daily if possible
- Drive it how Porsche intended (when warm)
- Avoid flooring it from a standstill if you have being sat in traffic
- Change plugs every 10,000 miles and coil packs every 20,000
- Improve the cooling system if you can, some cars support an additional 3rd radiator, DO IT, DO IT NOW!
Probably a bit OTT but my car was score free when I got it at 24,000 miles and is still score free now at 56,000 miles.
I think Porsche biggest issue with scoring is from their 20,000/2yr service intervals and the fact most people who buy them never actually drive them and just drive around at 30mph or sit in traffic jams.
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I went with your recommendation, stick with the Porsche approved oil, because like you said why change the oil when my engine is clearly not suffering any scoring.
So whereas it might be recommended by specialist who might be getting marketing interest/kickbacks from Millers it is clearly apparent the Mobil One is doing my engine no harm at all.