Resurrecting the ZS: With pictures

Some more progress!

Cam carrier back on:
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Fuel pump sprocket locked, ready for timing:
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I also dug out some interior pictures, it's the same now as it was then. The interior really isn't that bad for a car that had literally pennies spent on cosmetics:

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All done, and running fine. Got to get new brakes fitted, then job done! :cool:
 
Just a bit of an update.

Car has done over 4,000 miles since the work was done, in that time it's had:

- 2 new alloy wheels (I had a slightly sideways incident a long time ago, which buckled them slightly)
- New brake set-up, with refurb calipers and EBC pads
- High flow SDI injectors, rebuilt and ultrasonically cleaned
- Turbo boost adjusted via controller to 19psi

I'm also currently building a few 'home-brew' circuits using Bread Board at the moment, namely:

- Cruise control. This will tap into the throttle potentiometer (the engine is drive-by-wire) to physically set the % of throttle opening via a second potentiometer mounted in the cabin. I tried to design a circuit to hold the current opening, but it just wasn't possible with my knowledge.
The circuit I'm making will cut out as soon as the clutch or brake pedal is pressed, and will not re-activate unless the switch is pressed again. It will also be connected to the EGR valve to open this whenever cruise control is activated.

- 5v secondary loom. This will provide power to the variety of devices I'm looking to integrate into the car. I'm fitting 2 constantly looping video cameras (front and rear, hidden), and a proper mount for my Desire Z. Fed up of having wires everywhere, so will be totally hidden.

Other possible future additions:

- GT17 turbocharger. The current GT15 is a little stretched at current power levels, so this is the logical upgrade. Easy to fit too!

- FMIC. Quite badly needed, when I did 3 dyno runs the power was 3bhp down on the previous and the intercooler was pretty toasty.

:)
 
dalin80 said:
I would have thought ditching the EGR would have been high on the list of things to do as it does little but make a mess of the engine and controls a emission that isnt even tested here.
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Quite a lot of consideration has gone into this.... prepare to be bored! :p

The later Rover diesels have the addition of a water-cooled EGR valve, which is literally straight after the exhaust gases leave the head. What this means is on cold mornings, it takes literally 2-3 minutes to get the heaters warm, and about 5-7 minutes to get the full water temperature of 103 degrees.

When unplugged, this literally doubled. The EGR has a network of tiny exhaust gas channels through a heat exchanger, so the gases entering the manifold are pretty cool.

I have disconnected the crankcase breather and vent it to air, which means the soot in the EGR doesn't mix with the oil vapour, and hence doesn't clog anything up. Every 20k or so I take off the EGR to clean the channels out, and get it back to optimum efficiency.
 
You will also want to keep an eye on the inlet manifold then, the carbon from the EGR also likes to add a lining inside there. Polishing the inside of the inlet can help more on a diesel thanks to the higher air flow and that a shiny smoother surface doesn't allow the carbon deposits to stick as easily.
 
What power is the engine giving at 19psi? At least with the re-build the engine will last another 5,000 miles :D
 
It was taken off and cleaned out when the head was done, it does seem to build up. I will keep an eye on it, cheers. :)

The main issue was always the crankcase breather oil and soot mixing, since disconnecting the breather I've not noticed nearly as much.

The manifolds and charge pipe are quite small, so I'd imagine the airflow is quite high in there, not allowing it to stick if there is no oil.
 
GinG said:
What power is the engine giving at 19psi? At least with the re-build the engine will last another 5,000 miles :D
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1,000 miles to go before the next one then... :p

I estimate based on previous figures that it'll be at about 150bhp. Quite a nice round figure for a car weighing about 1250kg, it goes well enough but it isn't a rocket by any means.

It feels much better now, and hasn't lost a drop of water since the new waterpump and head were fitted.

To say I'm chuffed in an understatement, it's doing 50mpg, costing nothing to run and finally feels like a good, solid motor.
 
mattyprice4004 said:
I'm also currently building a few 'home-brew' circuits using Bread Board at the moment, namely:

- Cruise control. This will tap into the throttle potentiometer (the engine is drive-by-wire) to physically set the % of throttle opening via a second potentiometer mounted in the cabin. I tried to design a circuit to hold the current opening, but it just wasn't possible with my knowledge.
The circuit I'm making will cut out as soon as the clutch or brake pedal is pressed, and will not re-activate unless the switch is pressed again. It will also be connected to the EGR valve to open this whenever cruise control is activated.

- 5v secondary loom. This will provide power to the variety of devices I'm looking to integrate into the car. I'm fitting 2 constantly looping video cameras (front and rear, hidden), and a proper mount for my Desire Z. Fed up of having wires everywhere, so will be totally hidden.


:)
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Fire extinguisher handy for the resulting electrical fire? :p
 
GinG said:
Not bad, bet it feels quite nippy. What figures would it go to with the potential new turbo?
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Maximum power without looking at head studs would be about 160bhp, after that problems such as head lift tend to show up, which is what caused my original failure. I'd consider head studs, but of course more fuel is needed when over 160bhp, which needs very high flow injectors and consequently things get a little smoky. It can already blot out the headlights of cars behind me. :p

It doesn't half shift for a dag dag dag diesel, I'm pretty impressed. Shame about the interior build quality... :p

Berger said:
Fire extinguisher handy for the resulting electrical fire? :p
Click to expand...

Definitely, it's going to be 'interesting'. :D
 
Turbot indeed, I think I did make a comment a while back about a blue haze. Yesterday it got quite bad, not stupidly so but bad enough to warranty a replacement. £45 later and one from a 55,000 mile Rover 25 diesel is in the post to me. :)

To be fair, it's done 122,000 miles and 20,000 of them were at nearly 2 bar. Not had an easy life!
 
Least it's a cheap fix, water and oil cooled turbot?

Remember to buy new gaskets, studs, nuts and washers for the oil and water lines.

Changed my turbo twice now and that little lot comes to £70 each time from VW.
 
Only oil cooled, I'm surprised they last like they do - mine has died in it's infancy compared to others who have 200,000+ on the same unit.

Will do, luckily it's silly easy to change thanks to the fact the oil feed is actually via union - no gaskets or seals to mess with, just a copper washer.

At least this is a cheap fix. :p
 
Nope, shame I can't afford the turbo upgrade though!

I think this one has been goosed for a while, there has always been epic play in the shaft (up and down movement) which I think is causing my sporadic boost issue - when flat out, it'll fluctuate between 16-19psi. The turbo centre I've been to think it's the play in the shaft allowing it to move about, and of course friction on the shaft changes as the shaft moves, causing the boost changes... :eek:
 
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