Road Cycling

I was going to say ask Roady about chains, he must get them straight from factory the speed he goes through them :p

I have the GP4 IIs 28s on the ultimate, lovely stuff! Like riding on air haha
 
Last edited:
Well, my GF has taken the wheel to the LBS and they seemed to have fixed it!

They said it was wear and tear and I'd need to look into a new cassette and chain soon.

Next question, these are the two items on there at the moment, any mileage in upgrading?

SRAM PG1130 11 Speed Road Cassette 11-32

SRAM PC1130 11 Speed Chain
 
Last edited:
Maxeh said:
Well, my GF has taken the wheel to the LBS and they seemed to have fixed it!

They said it was wear and tear and I'd need to look into a new cassette and chain soon.

Next question, these are the two items on there at the moment, any mileage in upgrading?

SRAM PG1130 11 Speed Road Cassette 11-32

SRAM PC1130 11 Speed Chain
Click to expand...

like for like will do the job, upgrade stuff is just lighter really.
 
Dooksy said:
It's the rear I adjusted, two little screws. I now can't get it in the top cog which made climbing Birdlip much harder.

I'll have a go tonight.
Click to expand...

Push the derailleur in towards the wheel and turn the H/L screws until you start to get movement. You want the jockey wheels inline with the largest cassette cog.

Run the chain up the block and turn the remaining H/L screw to achieve the same with the smallest cassette cog so it's again aligned with the jockey wheels.

Release the shifter cable at the derailleur and turn the barrel adjuster so that it's screwed in almost completely save for a turn or two. Pull tight & tighten the shifter cable.

Shift up and unscrew the derailleur adjuster barrel until it jumps up a gear. Keep shifting up all the way to the largest cog. If it struggles to jump up increase tension (unscrew), if it won't fall down release tension (screw in). Just a case of finding the sweet spot. You shouldn't need to touch the H/L after this.
 
randomshenans said:
I was going to say ask Roady about chains, he must get them straight from factory the speed he goes through them :p

I have the GP4 IIs 28s on the ultimate, lovely stuff! Like riding on air haha
Click to expand...
Pffft! I'm getting ~1500-1800 miles out of SRAM chains (PC1130 & X1 11). The KMC's wouldn't last for 1000 miles! The Shimano CN-HG701 I had before the current PC1130 lasted ~1500 miles so they're good too. ;)

I like the feeling of these 28mm tyres, so comfy (with the bike having zertz too), although I do notice a slight squish when really stamping on the pedals. Maybe too much beefcake+power.
Maxeh said:
Next question, these are the two items on there at the moment, any mileage in upgrading?

SRAM PG1130 11 Speed Road Cassette 11-32

SRAM PC1130 11 Speed Chain
Click to expand...
Upgrading? To what and why? If they're worn and you're happy with the mileage and feel of them, just get some more!

:D
BennyC said:
You shouldn't need to touch the H/L after this.
Click to expand...
Great advice and guidance Ben!

Don't think I've ever touched my H/L (after fitting new derailleur).
Dooksy said:
Cheers, I'll be having a go tonight, hopefully I'll sort it out.
Click to expand...
Goodluck! See if you can get your H/L back to how they were first, before you start indexing :)
 
Lethal` said:
Only ~1500-1800 miles? What do you do?! :eek:

I've got over 4000 so far out of this Ultegra chain.
Click to expand...

I abuse them in all weathers and all conditions! I really don't treat my chains that well in the winter, they're put away wet after rain and dirty after mud!

Tend to only big dog it when commuting. Also WATTAGE^BAZOOKA (sweet KOM at lunchtime with marginal effort). :rolleyes:;)
 
So, H/L limits and indexing.

Well I ended up following the park tools site and once I'd finished the rear, I knew one issue was with the front. So I started doing that and I gave up after about 90 minutes as I need to do the cable tension. Haven't had dinner yet and I'm usually in bed by 9pm so I had to call it an evening.

Pretty frustrating as I've just been on holiday eating and drinking anything and everything and have put on 2.6 kg in a week, so I really wanted to get out! :(

I'll have another go tomorrow using the experience I gained tonight!

I think the original problem could have been achieved by adjusting the in line adjusters which I didn't even know my bike had!
 
Front mech is a little more difficult but just as simple, frustratingly.

Set the H/L limit screws (again on both rings at either end of the cassette and release the cable, screw the barrel adjuster all the way in.

Pull the cable as tight as you can and clamp.

Shift on to the big ring unscrewing the in line adjuster to increase tension if needed to get it to jump.

Then it's a case of tinkering to reduce/eliminate rub on the small ring & largest gear and big ring & smallest gear. Anything else is cross chaining where you should really change rings and gears as the ratios are the same/similar.

The GCN video is worth watching.
 
And it's built! 'Budget' TT bike!

Took it up the road and back after the morning bunch ride, brakes and gears work, saddle needs to be pushed back and the pads need widening on the aerobars.

Then I need to ride the thing and get comfortable and confident with the low front end, totally different to the road bike (super heavy too!).

5D6E464B-5D6B-425F-96E0-B4899EB68432_zpsudjxpayz.jpg
 
Off to Newcastle in an hour or two in prep for the 24 hour ride.

...and, as predicted, utterly cack weather has set in after a week of sunshine. Argh.
 
That Cervelo needs some Enve deepness!

How do you find the Archetypes? I've been considering them for my single-speed commuter but at more than double the cost of a cheap wheelset I'm not sold.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom