Another annoying headwind on the way into work today. Any tips on mitigating the effects? My front pannier (Brompton) acts like a sail but I don't really like the thought of wearing rucksacks. My bike doesn't have a rear pannier either.
Road Cycling
- Thread starter FrenchTart
- Start date
front panniers are apparently more aera than rear, but neither is good
the only thing i can think on a brompton is to try and replicate a TT position by gripping the bars close to the middle and dropping your body by bending your elbows
mayb e look at some pics from the Brompton world championship and see what they're up to?
like this, from Michael Hutchinson? http://keyassets.timeincuk.net/insp.../2012/09/blenheim2012_Blenheim_30-551x830.jpg
Last edited:
Try and see. 16g inflates 23c to 120psi supposedly. So should think it'd do a 28mm tyre to 90-100psi no problem.
If you carry a pump on you then I'd pump to 20-30psi and top up with CO2 if it's not enough on it's own. Trying to top up by hand and using CO2 first would be foolish
In other news my 'F-oakley' just arrived... That address though... $20 and just under 2 weeks. Will investigate fully on lunch & report
Linky?I was watching some YT vids and found Phil Hindes and Callum Skinner casually chatting about hitting 2450 watts. Freaks
They're not T4's/T5's?
Wearing a rucksack will probably be fine for you, you're not exactly putting in a huge amount of effort as you are riding a brompton after all...! Or are you?!
It's also probably the easiest/cheapest/quickest thing to try. If you really can't get on with a rucksack, would a satchel/shoulder/musette style bag be better (depending on how much you're carrying). Big jersey pockets, a toptube bag and saddle bag are your only other real option, apart from changing bike!
Someone here used to do that I think? Who had a 'pursuit brompton'?!
Only way I can think is similar to what I did for SPD-SL to Look Keo's recently.
Took pedals off bike and fitted to cleat (on shoe). Marked the angle and area the pedal axle intersected the side of the shoe. I then used the cleat to measure from the centre line forwards and backwards in a straight line intersecting the toe/heel area to get the angle and fore/aft of the cleat centre. This effectively left me with an + on the bottom of the shoe where to fit the new cleat, I did this, then fitted the pedal to the shoe to determine how close and any tweaks.
Tips: Removing pedals from cleats fitted to shoes is a nightmare (without them on your feet and cleat attached to pedal!), I found best way was to lever the clip backwards and then twist the shoe away with my hand. The forces involved mean you really do need to mark the shoe with a pencil/pen first. If you're worried about marking your shoes with pen, then stick some electrical tape on them, then draw on that.
I've done 1500+ on mine so far on crappy roads in all weathers and they're hardly worn. Not that I can remember what they looked like, but they're not down to the wear indicators by a long way (there are little round dots cut out, here and there) - them's your wear indicators. When you can't see them, it's time to replace.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331688969...49&var=540811923940&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Also load of bars turned up today from wiggle for my TT bike. One odd one out though. Who can tell what's wrong with this picture....
Email received from Wiggle saying the other bar is being sent out and should be with me tomorrow.... I got 4 sets of bars to have a look, whoever packed them must have 1 brain cell.
Will give it a try. I could just follow the usual guides but I'd like to mirror it as I have zero comfort issues with my current SPD setup besides a general desire for less float and a more secure fitment to the pedal.
That reminds me of the time a cleat bolt ejected itself from my shoe and I could not remove the shoe from the pedal while out on a ride... I ended up stealing a cleat bolt from the other shoe and putting it into the shoe through the bottom of the sole then snapping it out. Protip: tighten your cleat bolts well! So glad I realised there was an issue before I tried to unclip on that side and inevitably topple.
I would just see a CO2 cartridge as a one hit thing TBH and just get the size suitable for your tyres. I'd only go bigger than 16g for MTB tyres and smaller if you are running something super skinny <23mm. My other tip is to keep a couple of old inner tubes and cut them into sections to put over your cartridges. Gives an added layer of protection from the frost bite effect when you use them, helps grip the foam jacket and stops the other one rattling against things.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/vitus-bikes-razor-road-bike-2016/rp-prod135380
Could be a good winter bike option. Claris, carbon-bladed fork, rack and pannier mounts with clearance for 25mm tyres - £350
Could be a good winter bike option. Claris, carbon-bladed fork, rack and pannier mounts with clearance for 25mm tyres - £350
DA 9000 cranks for £290 on Wiggle, only 50x36 and 172.5mm in stock.
ProBikeKit have these at the same price or 52/36T for £270 and you can get 10% (upto £25 off) as a new customer too.
CRC had them at a similar price a while back and British Cycling membership gets 10% off too.
Quidco on top yada yada...
90psi in 28s is probably too much.
http://cyclingtips.com/2016/08/cycl...ethinking-road-bike-tire-sizes-and-pressures/
Long but a good listen.
http://cyclingtips.com/2016/08/cycl...ethinking-road-bike-tire-sizes-and-pressures/
Long but a good listen.
So me blindly ordering 16g cartridges for 700 x 28c was okay then.
I tend to ride at about 120 psi as I'm fat (96 ish kg), once a few kg are off I will drop to 110 I think.
That sounds pretty high. At that weight I'd be running 100 rear and 80 front on 28's, probably a touch less.
Yeah I found 90psi a bit harsh on these Pro4E's, dropped them down to 80/85 f/r and seems better. Have a feeling they'll go lower but I wanted to gradually reduce, not suddenly get some pinches! The 25x28 Roubaix's it came with were down at 75-80psi which felt very soft, but they have a bigger air volume (think they can be run tubeless to go even lower). Very supple tyres too, makes the pro4E's seem 'hard' in comparison! (and I know they're not!)
120psi is incredibly harsh, even on 23mm's & 25mm's, can't imagine how much it hurts on 28mm! Drop 20/30psi Dooks and save your mini^dooks some bruises!
'Bike Club' with the usual suspects later. Lets see if I've recovered some form & don't get dropped like a ginger baby again (3 times!).
Sneaky KOM at lunch (was an equal 42s KOM before. Happy Ross?)
Last edited:
120psi is incredibly harsh, even on 23mm's & 25mm's, can't imagine how much it hurts on 28mm! Drop 20/30psi Dooks and save your mini^dooks some bruises!
Will give it a go.
Yeah I found 90psi a bit harsh on these Pro4E's, dropped them down to 80/85 f/r and seems better. Have a feeling they'll go lower but I wanted to gradually reduce, not suddenly get some pinches! The 25x28 Roubaix's it came with were down at 75-80psi which felt very soft, but they have a bigger air volume (think they can be run tubeless to go even lower). Very supple tyres too, makes the pro4E's seem 'hard' in comparison! (and I know they're not!)
120psi is incredibly harsh, even on 23mm's & 25mm's, can't imagine how much it hurts on 28mm! Drop 20/30psi Dooks and save your mini^dooks some bruises!
You'll be going well to get a pinch at that psi unless you're about 300kg!
85-87 psi front, 92 rear for my 25s, unless I'm TTing in which case I'll chuck them up to 105-110 on the front although rear I try to get up to 140 although it's only 21mm. Different pressures for different conditions. Try to get bit lower if it's wet.