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Road Cycling

Discussion in 'Pedal Powered' started by FrenchTart, Jun 29, 2016.

  1. SoliD

    Capodecina

    Joined: Feb 25, 2004

    Posts: 14,845

    Location: Portsmouth

    Has anyone had anything repaired by rapha in the last year or so? I have had a number of requests and everyone is responded to with a voucher. So much for the lifetime repairs.
     
  2. Nursie

    Sgarrista

    Joined: Dec 27, 2005

    Posts: 7,649

    Location: Worcester

    I received a voucher when I requested a repair on a pair of core bibs. Would have needed 2 or 3 panels on the shorts replacing.
     
  3. merlin

    Capodecina

    Joined: Oct 18, 2002

    Posts: 20,665

    Location: England

    Please - need some help from the technicians amongst us:

    Ultegra 6800. When the front derailleur is in small front ring, the RD goes all the way up and down the cassette perfectly, no problems at all. However, when changing to BIG front ring, the RD hesitates slightly going from the very largest rear cog for 3 changes down the cassette (moving from large cogs to small cogs) then suddenly the hesitation is gone after 3 changes and it'll then go all the way down to the very smallest cog no worries whatsoever.

    I could understand if there was hesitation on the RD when in the front small AND the front big rings - but for the RD only to hesitate when the chain is on the big ring at the front has me completely bamboozled.

    I'm absolutely positive the indexing is spot on.

    I'm positive everything is clean of gunk.

    I don't think my chain is worn - it's only done 1700/1800 miles.

    Ideas?! :(

    @Jonny ///M maybe?!
     
  4. Saytan

    Mobster

    Joined: Oct 18, 2002

    Posts: 4,504

    inconsistent behaviour is often a result of a clean being required. slowness to come down the block can be adjusted out with 1/4-1/2 turn of barrel adjuster to the clockwise....
     
  5. merlin

    Capodecina

    Joined: Oct 18, 2002

    Posts: 20,665

    Location: England

    It's consistent behaviour, it's not inconsistent. Exactly what I'd have thought on the cleaning or indexing - but in the small front ring everything is absolutely perfect - all changes are perfect, it's just on the big front ring the rear changes are hesitant, but only for 3 changes, then everything is spot on after 3 changes. It's doing my head in.
     
  6. Saytan

    Mobster

    Joined: Oct 18, 2002

    Posts: 4,504

    generally the chain angle makes it quicker to come off the top sprockets when you're in the big ring.... so it's definitely weird.
     
  7. Jonny ///M

    Capodecina

    Joined: Nov 23, 2004

    Posts: 10,091

    I'd go with a hanger being inwards slightly assuming you've never touched the b screw.

    Try putting an allen key in the mech bolt, pull it up vertically ever so slightly and shift. If it drops smooth then you'll need to actually bend it properly.

    Whilst in the big ring and 4th cog up the block will give you a pretty straight chain line so have a look from the rear to see if it looks bent too.

    Jockey wheels can often cause issues like this but I think this is a new mech?
     
  8. merlin

    Capodecina

    Joined: Oct 18, 2002

    Posts: 20,665

    Location: England

    Thanks Jonny, I'll try that now.

    RD has done probably 4,000 miles, tbh for £35 they go for right now I could just pick another one up, it couldn't do much harm.
     
  9. merlin

    Capodecina

    Joined: Oct 18, 2002

    Posts: 20,665

    Location: England

    here's a pic:

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Roady

    Sgarrista

    Joined: Oct 18, 2002

    Posts: 7,791

    Location: Hereford

    Wow that one hurt. My first ride in the Zwift WTRL race series. Check that avg HR :eek::o

    I'd heard and seen this on a YouTube video about building a while ago but didn't realise it was so quick! Really thought it was more of a manual process to get things really accurate. Do you guys do much stuff through the mail? I've got an old deep rim & 10-speed hub it would be good to get built to just flog on. I'm not going to use it and couldn't seem to sell it as it is (bought from a clubmate with multiple broken & damaged spokes as a project I never followed through).

    How good are the vouchers? I've a set of old arm warmers with a split on them, would be good to replace for minimum costs! ;)

    Could be chain, well worth checking it just to confirm!

    Other thought would be the guide cog being too close to the cassette, so the chainline is harder for the RD to move over, it's 'snagging' on the cassette when the chain tension is higher (when in large ring) but when tension is lower (little ring) it's able to move easier? :confused:

    Can't think for the real/official names for it, but you'll find info on the screw to adjust that difference (how close the guide wheel is to the cassette) and how to measure if you look for info on changing cassettes with differing teeths.

    Just a thought... If you've changed cassette size it might be that, or if the RD is junked up a little so isn't moving as freely, so is adding more tension, etc etc
     
  11. merlin

    Capodecina

    Joined: Oct 18, 2002

    Posts: 20,665

    Location: England

    Is my first jockey wheel too far away from the cassette perhaps:

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Roady

    Sgarrista

    Joined: Oct 18, 2002

    Posts: 7,791

    Location: Hereford

    Yes it does look a little far, that's in big chainring looking at the arm & slack (looks ok)?

    How is it at the other end of the cassette? If you still have a large gap then close it up a bit and test it. Think its the screw on the 'top' of the RD, near the hanger, not the H+L on the back.

    I don't know what the correct distance/procedure is, but move it around a bit and see if it makes things better/worse. Certainly easier than bending the hanger which is really scary! ;)
     
  13. Jonny ///M

    Capodecina

    Joined: Nov 23, 2004

    Posts: 10,091

    You don't check and adjust the B Screw tension in that gear, the main thing that changes that angle are chain length and how tight a loop is on the rear derailleur cable loop. B Screw adjustment is done in the lowest gear.

    Giant TCR is really short so the spring of it holds the mech further away from the cogs slightly.

    I'd say if you back of the tension a quarter to half a turn and it helps it drop but then the problem is moved to the downshift i.e you click and it doesn't jump up then you have a bent hanger.
     
  14. Roady

    Sgarrista

    Joined: Oct 18, 2002

    Posts: 7,791

    Location: Hereford

    Jonny, he's not adjusting in that gear, just trying to show/see why it seems to happen around that gear. :D

    Got the Castelli ROS cap as a bit of a test as it was a deal (£20). Neat idea, but only really suited to spring/autumn. It's not a thick enough material to provide warmth and only a little wind protection, but is 'boil in the bag' enough not to wear in summer even with the front open. Some shower protection but not from real british rain. It's good this kinda weather when it's not cold but you need 'something' with a little protection.

    A general cotton cap is similar but gets wet, this one provides a little more protection and although 'clammy' feels like it dries out. It's comparable to the Sportful NoRain hat, but tighter fit and less rain protection (that one keeps more moisture off). They're both overpriced at £30 but at £20 (what I got the ROS for) they are both ok purchases when you want more from a cap.

    Annoying orange colour doesn't match any of my kit, but the grey one wasn't on special... :rolleyes:
     
  15. Jonny ///M

    Capodecina

    Joined: Nov 23, 2004

    Posts: 10,091

    Sorry @Roady was skim reading whilst working away and drinking coffee.

    I've ordered a Arione R5 from Wiggle as the R5 manganese was £35 which seemed pretty good so cheers for the offer of yours.

    My mtb for just eat is comfier than my road bike, maybe I'm just a pussy now but we'll see.
     
  16. Roady

    Sgarrista

    Joined: Oct 18, 2002

    Posts: 7,791

    Location: Hereford

    Argh I'd got them out but then with everything else moving around I hadn't taken you any pictures. Sorry, should've reminded me! That's a great price for one anyway.
     
  17. SoliD

    Capodecina

    Joined: Feb 25, 2004

    Posts: 14,845

    Location: Portsmouth

    Anyone seen any Uberbike black friday codes?
     
  18. Roady

    Sgarrista

    Joined: Oct 18, 2002

    Posts: 7,791

    Location: Hereford

    Seen very little so far but not had a good chance for a look prior like previous years.
     
  19. #Chri5#

    Soldato

    Joined: Feb 27, 2003

    Posts: 6,904

    Location: Shropshire

    I'm tempted by the KICKR offers as an upgrade over my Kinetic dumb trainer but then I had a thought...

    If I got a power meter, I could use "proper" power instead of virtual on the TT but I'd also be able to use it on the road. Pretty easier decision to go for pedal based as I could put them on the Synapse in the summer, then come the winter move them to the Planet-X on the turbo. A crank based meter would mean faffing around with BB standards on the Synapse, whilst a hub meter would also suffer on the portability / compatibility side.

    The single sided Vector 3s are ~£385 with double sided Assioma and Vectors £699. As I have an antique Edge 800, I know I won't get some features like Cycling Dynamics but the essential bits should be there.

    Has anyone had single sided power pedals before? They are obviously a fair wedge of cash cheaper but is it inevitable you end up upgrading to a dual sided setup later?

    I know Garmin have had quality issues with the Vector 3s, so I'm not buying them from eBay or Europe in case they need to go back!
     
  20. XE11

    Gangster

    Joined: Sep 26, 2013

    Posts: 326

    Location: London

    merlin cycle is doing 25mm GP5000 non-tubeless for 29.99 each.