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Rust prevention.....

Discussion in 'Motors' started by Scania, 16 Feb 2021.

  1. Scania

    Capodecina

    Joined: 25 Nov 2004

    Posts: 24,988

    Location: On the road....

    Having just had my 16 year old Volvo MOT’d the tester advised that I got some rust prevention treatment applied to the underside of the car,although this wasn’t listed as an advisory as such, something akin to oil spraying, just wondering if there’s a better option other than just using old oil (as I have done so in the past albeit on a different car) , he said there’s nothing worse than surface corrosion but treatment now will significantly prolong the life of the old tank.

    Any recommendations appreciated. :)
     
  2. VaderDSL

    Capodecina

    Joined: 18 Oct 2002

    Posts: 15,769

    Location: Manchester

  3. pugheaven

    Mobster

    Joined: 22 Apr 2008

    Posts: 3,599

    Location: Bryn Celyn Wales

  4. BUDFORCE

    Mobster

    Joined: 3 May 2012

    Posts: 4,105

    I've been thinking about doing something like this for a while, my Volvo is only 7 years old and actually really pretty good underneath and id like to keep it that way.
     
  5. Thebug

    Wise Guy

    Joined: 17 Feb 2007

    Posts: 1,926

    Location: Walsall

  6. Scania

    Capodecina

    Joined: 25 Nov 2004

    Posts: 24,988

    Location: On the road....

    Actually, he specifically warned against Waxoyl, I immediately suggested using it and he advised against as over time water gets behind the waxoyl and rust starts to form unseen, by the time it's an issue, it's too late. I had an old '84 XR3i that had been wayoyled from new - which was such a selling point back in the day - and it passed every MOT with no corrosion issues, then came the day it turned out it was actually riddled underneath , neatly hidded by the layers of black stuff....

    @VaderDSL I've seen that stuff used on commercials, swaying towards this option, thanks.
     
  7. Cookeh

    Sgarrista

    Joined: 21 Jan 2010

    Posts: 8,382

    Location: Ceredigion

    I used Dinitrol 4941 on my 850s wheel arches and boot floor plan. Preventative more than anything, but its stood up well for the year since I've done it, with 5-6 pressure washes/APC applications. Only used the one can, so fairly economical too.

    BH is also great, and has added benefit of having clear options.
     
  8. Duke

    Man of Honour

    Joined: 29 Jun 2003

    Posts: 33,963

    Location: Wiltshire

    Another vote for Dinitrol, used it on my MX5.
     
  9. dale1uk

    Wise Guy

    Joined: 15 Nov 2005

    Posts: 2,216

    Location: Newcastle

    I found the Bilt Hamber Dynax stuff great when I did my mx5. The UB brushed on nice and easy without any real mess. The S-50 for inside the box sections come with a 360° spray Lance and coats inside box sections very well. I had before and after pictures using an endoscope and everywhere was fully coated. I did my 5 in 2016 and it's still going strong with the current owner and not showing any signs of rust (which for a MK2 is very rare, although it was a fresh import in 2012)

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  10. Nasher

    Capodecina

    Joined: 22 Nov 2006

    Posts: 21,834

    If you want something you can just spray/brush on quickly on vulnerable spots: ACF-50 or XCP rust blocker. XCP lasts longer but is more expensive.

    Apply 1-2 times a year and that should stop it, keeps salt out too. They take a very long time to wash off (as you'll find out if you get them on your hands :p). You can actually do the bodywork with ACF50 and water/mud won't stick to it for ages lol

    For the more perminent coatings I think they are designed to be put on before rust appears. Or after it's been 100% dried and removed. Otherwise it can make it worse. So don't do it at this time of year.
     
    Last edited: 17 Feb 2021
  11. silverblack

    Wise Guy

    Joined: 8 Jun 2007

    Posts: 1,675

    I work in the Oil Industry and the guys use Rust Veto to protect subsea equipment that has been shot blasted.
    Equipment can be stored outside for years and still look as if they had been recently shot blasted.
    All of them use that on their cars.
     
  12. Agent_Smith357

    Wise Guy

    Joined: 20 Apr 2004

    Posts: 1,424

    Location: Somerset

    What's with the metal plates on the chassis rails?
     
  13. dale1uk

    Wise Guy

    Joined: 15 Nov 2005

    Posts: 2,216

    Location: Newcastle

    They are P5 frame rails and are designed to increase the rigidity of the shell. They also help protect the rails from damage from speed bumps or from jacking.

    If I'm honest they didn't make a huge noticeable difference, mk1s are supposed to benefit more. The added protection to the rails made them worth it though.
     
  14. Cyber-Mav

    Capodecina

    Joined: 30 Jul 2005

    Posts: 16,329

    Location: Midlands

    sand to bare metal or get loose rust off, use rust converter then epoxy primer and then use stonechip on top. can pain on top of stone chip if you want it to look better.
     
  15. jsmoke

    Capodecina

    Joined: 17 Jun 2012

    Posts: 10,832

    Por-15 is the best you can get, mixed reviews about waxoyl and the like, tends to chip off eventually.