Setting Up New Bungalow Home Network

[Quartz]

So actually, had the insects got into your airing cupboard, you would have had the same result?

It's a lot easier to get to an airing cupboard than an attic. And insects are far less likely to be present in an airing cupboard.

It's nonsensical and irrational

It is the voice of experience.

 

[Deleted member 77746]

It is the voice of experience.

That doesn't count only the fairy voices count.

 

[WJA96]

It's a lot easier to get to an airing cupboard than an attic. And insects are far less likely to be present in an airing cupboard.


It is the voice of experience.

I was a volunteer fire fighter for Lothian & Borders for 17 years. And I have plenty of experience of house fires. Believe me, the only flammable material in a loft space is the junk people put up there. Look at the pictures of houses after fires. The roof beams are impregnated so they don't burn. The insulation doesn't burn. The roof slates/tiles don't burn. Even if you had a plague of insects there is no fuel to sustain a fire in a switch unless you've stacked flammable materials on top of it.

 

[Quartz]

I was a volunteer fire fighter for Lothian & Borders for 17 years.

Good for you. Seriously. But I used to look after the IT for my county fire brigade for nearly 8 years. I am not speaking from ignorance.

 

[WJA96]

Good for you. Seriously. But I used to look after the IT for my county fire brigade for nearly 8 years. I am not speaking from ignorance.

But you are. Just because I once washed Jackie Stewart's Ford Granada doesn't mean I know anything about racing driving. Please, reach out to your local Fire Prevention Team and ask them what the risks are of putting a switch in the attic actually are. And as I stated in my pretty extensive post above, if you're worried about fire, put a smoke alarm up there. The insects didn't go into your loft looking for 48V 802.3af - they went there because there was access, warmth and something to eat. And only one of those involve a PoE switch.

As for it being easier to put all the cables into a closet, I disagree. In most houses I work in the roofspace is a straight run up from all of them. Cupboards not so much. You generally have to run across the house to pull cables into cupboards. And people do love to stack things in cupboards. If you're worried about heat build-up is it better to put your equipment in the effectively ambient attic (which is, incidentally the same area as the house and a pretty decent volume of air or a small cupboard with the door shut where the heat will not be able to vent anywhere?

And your advice about having a separate PoE switch because you might feed 48V to a client is bizarre. As far as I'm aware it's impossible to feed power to a non-POE device from a PoE switch. You can feed a 24V device with 48V but that's a configuration error and as far as I'm aware, the OP isn't looking to buy any 24V kit anyway.

 

[Hyburnate]

Hi all, I've been doing lots of reading and gathering of information the last few days trying to see the best way of setting up a new bungalow I'm in the process of purchasing.

It's quite large over 3000 square feet so I've been trying to work out the best way to provide full connectivity throughout. I am in the early stages but hoping to get some advice on the direction before going into too much detail if I'm on the wrong path.

I am looking to put in at least 14 ethernet access points to various faceplates dotted throughout, and then potentially 12 POE devices such as cameras and AP's for full WIFI coverage.

All walls are solid inside the bungalow so I am looking to put WIFI AP's in pretty much all rooms, hence the larger number of POE devices.

Is this really required I would strongly tell you not to do this. You will be very surprised, I'd be happy to send you a theoretical heatmap survey if you send me some building plans over PM, you will encounter massive 2.4GHz co-channel interference doing this.

I'm planning on putting everything in the loft space and monitor the temps especially in the summer months.

A few thoughts I have been mulling over that would be great to hear anyone's feedback or experience.

1) Should I split the POE and non POE connections across two different switches, one POE and one non ? Daisy chain switches OK any issues bottlenecks etc

Split them for the simple fact of cost

2) Should I use Cat6 or Cat6a cabling purely for future proofing - all devices will work well over Cat 5e, but as all new cabling will be laid use the opportunity to do it.

Comes down to construction and how many runs you're putting in but Cat6 is going to be a lot easier to work with. Cat6A has a ridiculous CSA and to be honest Cat6 will probably do 10G should you need it to in the future at the lengths you're looking at.

3) I am looking at rack mounting a keystone patch panel, switch (ideally fanless as I want noise kept to a minimum) and the standard ISP modem/router in the same rack.

If anyone has any recommendations for any of the components that would be great as I've literally scanned 100s of different ones looking at Amazon reviews and other reviews, a lot are US based so I was hoping for more of a UK opinion with link to UK suppliers.

Switch recommendation - TP Link for a domestic dwelling - Lifetime warranty, or if you want to get something a little nicer, Ubiquiti
Patch panel recommendation (if keystone any preference on jacks, some are wider some are angled some are lite - does it make a difference which ones I go for) Big buyer of Excel Networking, angled make patching easier but to be honest probably won't cause much issue
Rack recommendation RackyRax are crap, they're from Connectix, still with an Environ WR. 600 Deep to ensure you future proof.

I'm looking at setting up an NVR and using HiKvision POE cams as the CCTV solution.

Thanks

 

[dapoodle]

All walls are solid inside the bungalow so I am looking to put WIFI AP's in pretty much all rooms, hence the larger number of POE devices.

Is this really required I would strongly tell you not to do this. You will be very surprised, I'd be happy to send you a theoretical heatmap survey if you send me some building plans over PM, you will encounter massive 2.4GHz co-channel interference doing this.

Thanks for the reply

Can I just clarify your point that having too many APs i.e one in each room would cause interference between the signals of each AP so I should only have them where the signals don't cross too strongly ?

Thanks for the switch recommendations I've been looking at both of those you mention - is there any need for a managed or smart switch ? I'm leaning towards 'no' but if there's any major benefits to a home install happy to go managed.