Sharper low-light images?

~D~

~D~

Associate
Joined
20 Jan 2007
Posts
352
I have Nikon D60 and one of those little desk tripods. It's really not practical for me to carry a full tripod around with me all day nor to go home and come back with a tripod, so I tend to balance the small tripod on bridges (being very careful of course!) and take photos.

However I find that the action of the mirror flipping up in the SLR makes my images soft in low-light, and since the D60 doesn't have a mirror lockup function (for photographic purposes). I was wondering if there were any tips I could use to get sharper shots with the little tripod?
 
You'll find a bean bag better for taking longer exposures without camera shake.

Any cheap/small tripod is going to suffer from camera shake.

EDIT: The problem I found with the gorilla pod types, is that they don't "lock" and the camera will move slowly, blurring your photo's.

Then again, my camera is a lot heavier than a D60, so don't know if you'll get away with it?

Kae.
 
Last edited:
This with your choice of head is the best small tripod I've found. No problems at all with sharpness using my D90 and 105mm lens.

T'other thing is how are you firing the camera? With your finger or an IR remote?
 
If using the shutter I recommend setting it on the two second timer so your hand is well clear from possibly shaking the camera
 
No small-light tripod will work. Ignore anyone who says otherwise. The physics of the system will dictate why a light tripod wont work, even if it is an expensive tripod. And a cheap tripod is just a recipe for disaster. You have a few hundred grams of shutter-mirror mechanism (less weight in DX cameras) slapping at great speed, the rotational torque and momentum are quite profound. You need a structure with enough inherent rigidity to avoid oscillation down the tripod legs. A cheap light tripod will only amplify the motion.

A general rule of thumb is the tripod+ head should weigh at least 1.5X the weight of the camera + lens it is supporting. This quickly pushes you to a 3.5kg or more for a 200mm 2.8 lens. Carbon fiber and modern construction can reduce this, but there is a limit.

The Pro solution is an expensive carbon fiber tripod (usually by Gitzo), and a decent ball head (really right stuff BH-40 for light-weight).

Bean bag would work better than a cheap tripod, but I have never tried. The reason here is that the bean bag instead of trying to produce a solid rigid support like a tripod gives a dampened support which absorbs camera movement. This will only work for smaller lenses.



Hand holding can be much better than a cheap tripod with good technique. Use a 2 second timer so your finger press is stabilised and the mirror slap is not present. Standing in a stable position, preferably leaning on something for support. The usually high iso + appropriate aperture to get a reasonable shutter time is require, VR/IS will help a little.

I know someone who was trained in the army as a sniper, he hand holds giant telephoto lenses to great affect.


The other thing is mirror slap is worse at the shutter speeds of 1s-1/20s . Avoiding these shutter speeds helps a lot.

And Nikon is horrible for not putting Mirror lock-up in the low models.!
 
Last edited:
Thanks for your replies.

Sorry I didn't mention but yes, I am using an IR remote.

At the moment I'm primarily using my 35mm f/1.8 lens, which doesn't have VR and usually within the 1/20-1 second area - which D.P says is worse for mirror slap.

I'll give a gorilla pod a try, it says it can support up to 3kg and the legs are made of individual sections which apparently help to absorb shock (additionally it'll also be useful for other aspects of my photography too), but if that doesn't work I'll try a beanbag
 
Back
Top Bottom