Should I set center speaker to small or large?

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I don't have a subwoofer. I have the tannoy precision 6.4 floostanders with matching centre.

Just wondering while doing AV receiver setup

Thanks
 
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Ordinarily I would suggest with the combination of speaker sizes and the 3ch power amp in place of the Marantz receiver output to drive the front sound stage that the centre be set to large. However, this is a @Helen Barber thread, so whatever we suggest will probably be ignored :D:D:D LOL
 
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always set your speakers to small during setup was what I got told by my setup guy and mines a big set of floor standers and centre I would've always put them to large and he said small always. He calibrated my system just before Xmas and it's unbelievable now.
 
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always set your speakers to small during setup was what I got told by my setup guy and mines a big set of floor standers and centre I would've always put them to large and he said small always. He calibrated my system just before Xmas and it's unbelievable now.

That will be because you have a sub?
 
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I've always had minx min 22 @80hz, but from researching they should be at 120hz.... I've always thought they lacked in sparkle, is that maybe the effect of setting them wrong at 80hz?
 
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The Minx 22 need to be set higher than 120Hz. That's the bottom of their range, but they don't quote a roll off figure e.g. -3dB or -6dB etc.

You'd be safer setting at 140Hz.

The crossover frequency doesn't affect the sparkle though. That's a limitation of the BMR drivers.

Although the.Minx 22 has two drivers, the second is to add more bass weight. The upper frequency driver still lacks some of the top end extension of a dome tweeter. That's the trade-off for the driver having such a wide frequency range; it goes much lower than a traditional tweeter, and has far wider dispersion characteristics too.

Try the channel EQ if the NAD has it.

Also, what cable are you using with the Minx speakers?
 
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Thanks, great reply, will do. The runs are 15m to each speaker

I just thought that @80hz it might of been effecting the clairty, with the bottom bass driver being over worked... Will test tomorrow at @140hz
"
KabelDirekt – Pure Copper Stereo Audio Speaker Wire & Cable – Made in Germany – 2x2.5mm² – 15m – (For Hifi Speakers and Surround Sound Systems, Pure Copper, with polarity markings)

 
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Thanks, great reply, will do. The runs are 15m to each speaker

I just thought that @80hz it might of been effecting the clairty, with the bottom bass driver being over worked... Will test tomorrow at @140hz
"
KabelDirekt – Pure Copper Stereo Audio Speaker Wire & Cable – Made in Germany – 2x2.5mm² – 15m – (For Hifi Speakers and Surround Sound Systems, Pure Copper, with polarity markings)
So you shouldn't be losing any top end sparkle due to roll off because the cable gauge is too small.

I don't know first hand how the Minx 22 would sound if significantly overdriven. I think you'd really have to be pushing things to extremes though to overwork the mid/bass drivers. You're unlikely to do that by frequency alone i.e. driving the Minx 22 with a crossover point of 80Hz. The speakers won't respond much below 120Hz, so whether the crossover point was set at 120Hz, or 100Hz, or 80Hz or even 20Hz won't matter from the speaker's point of view. However, it probably will change how much power the amp is allocating to the channel, and that will have an effect on the sound. This is why THX recommends 80Hz. It's less about the capabilities of the speakers and more about working around the current delivery limitations of multichannel AV amps and receivers.

Where you will start to hear the speaker changing is when you alter the crossover frequency at a point within the speaker's response range.

In the case of the Minx 22, the speaker will probably sound cleaner at 140Hz than 120Hz. In systems where all the bass below the crossover point is directed to the sub, then there's always a need to look at the sub's upper roll off point to see if it can fill in the remainder. A sub with say a 10" diameter bass driver might well go as high as 140Hz-160Hz. Something with a 12" or 15" driver would struggle.

In your case all your bass below the crossover points for the surrounds and the ATMOS speaker should be directed to the front speakers rather than a sub. The LFE track should be going there too. You should probably check this.

Once you have, then any perceived loss is more likely to be down to the characteristics of the speakers (the voicing) compared to the main speakers, plus the effects of room acoustics (first point reflections for the mains and centre usually) and any EQ applied by the receiver's room processing.
 
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I'm looking to move house in 6 months, I will tinker myself and then get you in to work your magic, I need projector calibration, TV calibration, Dirac etc etc etc.

I've got your details from Linkedin

:)
 
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