So, you want a new Hi-Fi?

DRZ

DRZ

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So, you want a new Hi-Fi?

There has been a spate of threads on here of late asking for help with setups both as AV systems become more mainstream and affordable and people make the move back to stereo from AV once the hype has passed them, as well as those who want to upgrade their kit but are a bit confused as to where to go.

I don’t promise all of the answers but I hope this thread helps a few people! Don’t forget that there is nothing like going to the shops to actually listen to this stuff! Don’t be afraid to go in and ask for what you want!

Amplification

There are really two ways to go here: Stereo amps and A/V amps. It is possible to mix and match between these setups too. I will come to that later.

Stereo Integrated amps

These are amplifiers where the preamplifier and the power amplifier are built into the unit. This is what most people think of when they think of stereo amplification.

Budget Stereo amplification: £80 - £200

In this price range it is easy to get carried away by some of the lesser brand’s obscene claims, designed to baffle the newbie into buying their products regardless of every other factor.

Cambridge Audio A1 v3 - £80

A very basic amplifier but at £80, you really cannot go wrong. Paired with a small and easy to drive pair of standmounts, this makes a perfectly acceptable entry to the world of separates. Lack of a tone defeat option (to totally remove any circuits other than amplification in the signal path) is one thing that is missing but at this price, you cant have everything.

30wpc into 8 ohms isn’t going to set the world rocking but with the right speakers hooked up, it’s more than adequate. It doesn’t have the punchiest delivery ever because it just lacks the current to do that but for more gentle music its pretty much spot on.


Cambridge Audio A5 - £120

The next real point up from the A1. Having owned both the A1 and the A5 I can type this out knowing full well the differences between the two. They are quite a stark contrast to each other and it is all down to the power inside the box. Twice as powerful as the A1 it will let you power significantly more demanding speakers at greater volumes before it all starts to get messy. The difference between the two is the bass delivery. The extra current allows it to control the speakers better and so you get a more precise sound. Treble and midrange are slightly improved but this is predominantly down to the inclusion of a tone defeat button. I strongly recommend that you use this feature – even the tone control circuitry in more expensive amps is still rubbish. Turn it off and leave it off!


Audiolab 8000A - ~£150

Only available second hand at the moment though you will be able to get them (at significantly higher cost) through the better hifi shops very soon indeed. Production of the new units is in China and the quality isn’t expected to be as high as the original series. Not the best looking amp ever, but it isn’t about the looks. Stereo imaging is spot on. Accurate (but to some ears clinical) this amp is one you really ought to demo before you buy – hard to do if you are getting second hand really so find a friendly seller or buy one and be prepared to sell on immediately if you don’t like it. You are almost certain not to lose money on it providing you pay a fair price for it in the first place and you shouldn’t have too much trouble shifting it.

Despite it looking like it has next to no power it packs a hefty punch according to those who really rate these amplifiers (apparently used as reference amps by a few magazines and raved about by our very own Matblack) and is an excellent all rounder. One to think hard about. Buying one of these second hand carries next to no risk as there are so few moving parts inside and most will have been owned by careful, loving audiophile owners.

Arcam Alpha series amps ~£100 – £200

Generally regarded by all as being outstanding amplifiers each series commands a higher price but you should be able to pick up an Alpha 8 in good nick for the top end of the budget without too much trouble.

NAD C320BEE - £180

NAD are a personal favourite of mine and this amp is no exception. It is typically NAD – warm with bags of current but a faithful treble reproduction that doesn’t overpower the sound like the cheaper Rotel amps do, for instance. Seemingly capable of driving speakers that it should be able to drive it might be the one if you are moving from a ridiculously powerful yet rubbish A/V amp to stereo and have kept your floorstanders behind. 50wpc might not do them justice but if you are on this kind of budget and don’t want to buy second hand it will certainly step up to the mark well.

Mid range stereo amplification - £200 - £700

Picking in this price range is hard. Everything has its own style and its what you prefer rather than what someone else tells you that is the important bit. Demonstration time is all important here. Check the bottom of this post, I may well add in a section on demonstrations!

It is time to break away from even contemplating shopping with companies like Richer Sounds. They just don’t offer the range or the service that someone at this point really needs. If we are honest about it, most of the staff don’t really know much about the hifi above the stuff they sell and its only going to get worse as they focus on vision rather than sound.

Superfi are a bit limited too, with some stores being better than others. Do some reading before you go into big chains like this and it will really help you to pick out the most knowledgeable chap in the shop rather than listening to a hail of BS from an incompetent!

Better still, get yourself along to a specialist dealer. Their range should start in this price range though they will sell kit that is ten times your budget. Try not to get put off or distracted by this and concentrate on what you went in for and you will be fine :)

Back to the kit in question…

Rotel RA01 - £250

Depending on the music you listen to you will either love this amp or hate it. Either way, it is crystal clear in the mid range and some very precise treble. Not enough grunt to really hit those low transients, especially when you look at the price tag. This lack of lower frequency accuracy off-balances the sound leaving a horrendous trebly mess (in my personal opinion) depending on how bright the speakers are of course. Not suited at all for rock music or rap music. I had the displeasure of listening to a Lloyd Banks track through this amp and regardless of the speakers that I had hooked up to it, the treble dominated the track and made it unlistenable. It was the same story with Bloc Party and several other CDs I used to test it. For more mellow classical work though, I can see this amp suiting well when coupled with some warmer speakers.

Arcam A65 Plus - £370

Not personally heard this exact amp but the power amp of the same series that I demed a while back wasn’t the kind of amp you would want to pair up to a Metallica CD IMO but was significantly less highly strung than the Rotel. If it follows suit it should be a cracker for softer music but again it is all personal preference so you are going to have to demo it!

NAD C372 - £450

Typical NAD sound – Absolutely masses of grunt while never losing composure when driven hard with the right speakers and always spot on treble and mid range, especially vocals. I have heard this model driving some B&W Nautilus 804 speakers – notoriously hard to drive. It was struggling at the very top end of its abilities but by that point it was way past comfortable listening levels anyway. Definitely a contender if you listen to rock or bass-oriented music. Very hard to beat for the price.

Cyrus 6VS - £650

As ever with Cyrus, an absolutely tiny amp! Typically though, the Cyrus approach to binding posts (there aren’t any) may frustrate those who are dead-set against banana plugs - tough! Very good for such a teeny thing especially considering its 40wpc but it gives enough to fill normal sized listening spaces with reasonable speakers. More suited to classical than anything else but as ever a matter of personal preference. I had an old Cyrus amp in my living room for a short while and I really did like the sound. Cyrus customer service is reputed to be quite good too – they will upgrade this amp to the 8 spec for you apparently (not free though, obviously :p) – just a matter of posting it to them.

Musical Fidelity A3 - ~£350

If you can get hold of one of these (only available s/h now I would assume) it should be seriously considered. Very clean sound, extremely well balanced and being dual mono, the stereo image is absolutely excellent. Should suit you down to the ground if you are using it for rock but it is really designed with the classical side of things in mind and that is where it excels. In my opinion probably the best amplifier I have heard to date this side of stupid money.

Meridian 551 - ~£300-£350

Reportedly excellent amplifier, not sure what else you could really expect from Meridian really. I don’t have the experience with Meridian kit to comment but Im sure there are others here that will chip in with their experiences of this amp. For £300 though, you cannot really go wrong! Second hand only and they do look rather dated but its not about what it looks like it is all about what is inside!

There isn’t any point in me going any further up the price range because I simply don’t know enough about the kit up there to be able to do it justice. It also becomes far more personal preference than anything else I think. Look into that stuff yourself, you really don’t need a guide like this if you are spending over £650 on an amp!

A/V Amplification

Home cinema has really hit the masses. People want the cinema in their front room and A/V amps are the way to go about getting this. There are risks associated with this and a few pitfalls to avoid.

My own personal journey through hifi took me from basic stereo amplification to A/V amplification and then eventually back to stereo. If you predominantly listen to music and want to get an A/V amp because you watch the odd film it would do both your music and your wallet justice to just leave A/V completely alone and just upgrade your stereo system somewhere.

If you really want films to immerse you AND you want good stereo there really isn’t any way to avoid buying both a good A/V amp and a good stereo amp. They come close but not close enough to discard stereo completely.

A/V amplification starts off just as cheap as stereo amplification but its absolutely not worth the money at that end of the market. It might seem elitist or daft or whatever but if you are going to spend less than about £200 on a new A/V amp you might as well just not bother. They are that bad at the cheap end and it makes sense that they are that bad too. For this reason, I am not going to bother looking at these cheap amps and start off with something a bit more upmarket.

Pioneer VSXC502 - £250

Budget A/V amp but a reasonable performer. Has all the right decoders and has 3 digital inputs which is enough to connect your DVD player, console and Sky+ box to it. 100w RMS into 8 ohms per channel – take this with a pinch of salt, it might claim 100w RMS but I doubt in practice it will develop more than half that. I doubt the power supply inside could cope with this.

Filmwise it isn’t refined enough to handle something like The Usual Suspects or some of the musical scenes in Hannibal and nor does it have the punch to handle the exploding scene in Swordfish but somewhere in the middle it seems to be reasonably happy. If you are doing home cinema on a budget – stretch it a bit more and get something better!

Denon AVR-1906 - £300

At this price range and in my personal opinion there isn’t a more musical A/V amp out there. The equivalent Yamaha is £100 and still isn’t as good for music. This comes across in films too. For open passages of music in films where you really don’t want the typical A/V amp attack it is mellow but it still has the drive to really give explosive scenes some action. Not as good as the Yamaha for the latter part of that but then in my experience there is more music in films than there is explosions so it might be a case of where your priorities lie.
85wpc x 7 (RMS into 8 ohm)

Yamaha DSPAX757SE - £400

Very capable amplifier and a favourite of many at this price. Not my favourite amp as it is priced between the two Denons and offering neither enough extra over the 1906 to warrant the money or present enough of a saving to buy it over the now departing but excellent Denon AVR-2805. Still, in its own right it has issues reproducing music but in every other aspect it is great for the money

Denon AVR-2805 - £600

When it was not long out I bought this amplifier after a ludicrous amount of time testing every single A/V amp this side of £1000 that I could. Value for money wise, this had it all. It held its own against amps costing double and had features that cheaper alternatives just could not hope to offer. The ludicrous connectivity offered meant you could quite literally struggle to fill even half of the inputs. EIGHT digital inputs as well as a host more analogue connections meant it was unlikely you would ever find something that you couldn’t connect. Composite, S-Video and Component all catered for make for an impressive looking rear panel but the quality is there inside to back it all up. It doesn’t suffer from all of this technology crammed inside it either – It is still the best A/V amp this side of £1000 I have heard either for music or films.

There are others and they fit somewhere around each of the models listed here. Yamaha have that aggressive sound but lack musicality and deftness for quieter passages. Denon have the musicality but some people feel they lack drive and aggression through more active scenes. For vocal clarity, Marantz may have it in the bag but I felt let down by the rest of the package from each of the amps I have heard by them.


Speakers

Perhaps the hardest thing to try and advise people on are speakers. What people actually hear from a loudspeaker seems to vary so wildly from person to person that it makes it almost impossible to write about. Im going to attempt a rough guide.

IT IS PARAMOUNT that you pair your speakers with your amp as best you can. This means taking your amp to the shop or making sure they have one in stock that is identical. The load a speaker presents to an amplifier changes how the amplifier outputs. I cant stress this enough - speakers sound so different on different amps!

Standmount speakers suit small rooms best. Low cabinet volume hampers bass response and they are quite often less sensitive than floorstanding equivalents. They generally tend not to give a full sound in a large room and instead sound “lost”.

Good standmount speakers need good stands. You have to place them somewhere and that somewhere must be at eye level of a seated listener. Good stands can make or break a pair of bookshelves. If you really must put them on a desk though, put blue tack underneath the corners. This will help to stop them vibrating about and sounding awful.

Budget Standmounts - £60 - £150

Gale Silver Monitor - £60

If you need speakers on an exceptionally limited budget these are probably the speakers for you. They aren’t going to be the best sounding loudspeaker but if you are just making the move from a midi system you should notice the improvement.

Mission M71 - £100

Beautiful sound for the money and even if price is disregarded they are still nice speakers. Couple well with Cambridge Audio and Denon amps in particular they are a very good pair of speakers to start your voyage into hifi!

Mourdant Short 902 - £150 (£120 in black)

Never heard a pair in my life but a few people have mentioned them when discussing budget standmounts.[EDIT: Actually, I have but it was aaages ago, I just didnt remember!] Here is what Hifichoice.co.uk have to say

Conclusion

This gorgeous little speaker sets new standards for style at any price, never mind a beer budget £150 a pair. One wonders, however, to what extent the cosmetics have dictated the performance, as the sound quality is not quite as impressive, being a little thin, forward and shiny. But it doesn't disgrace itself by any means, and this 902 will probably sell by the shed-load just because it looks so good.

Apparrently, these work well when coupled with the Mourdant Short 308 sub. Subs arent the best solution to bass problems but if its the only way, go for it :)

Mid range standmounts £150 - £400

I use the term mid range loosely here – I know that speakers go up to ludicrous money and that in comparison, £400 is still relatively “budget” but for the purposes of the scope of this thread, it shall be considered mid range! I have decided not to write about each of these speakers – the differences in personal taste are too great for me to colour your judgement. I have picked out some speakers I think it might be worth going and hearing side by side though.


B&W DM600 S3 - £200

KEF iQ1 - £230

Mission V61 - ~£200 (I think?!)

KEF iQ3 - £280

B&W DM602 S3 - £300

Dynaudio Audience 42 - £400


Floorstanding Speakers

Floorstanding speakers generally need a larger room in order for them to sound comfortable

Typically, floorstanders give a much more accurate reproduction of the source and are also usually more efficient, meaning they are louder for the same power.

I would go and have a listen to:

Mission V62 - £200

KEF iQ5 - £400

B&W DM602.5 S3 - £400

KEF iQ7 - £600

B&W DM603 - £600

B&W DM604 - £800

KEF iQ9 - £800

Dynaudio Audience 72 - £1100

B&W 704 - £1400


What to do when you get to the shop

A lot of people are scared of going to the shop for a demo. They don’t know what to ask, what shops will or wont do and how to act in there.

The first thing to remember is that they are there to help you. They will have heard it all before from lots of people before you. If it is a shop of good repute they will also know what you are likely to like just from what you say to them.

Shops usually would be grateful of some notice – if you know you are going to be free one day in a couple of weeks, pop in and ask if it would be alright for you to come in and have a chat about what you want and if it would be possible for you to hear that kit when you came in. If you plan on bringing down some of your own kit tell them in advance and they will be expecting you and are likely to be able to offer you some help if you need it.

The single most important thing to remember to do is to take as many CDs as you think you need to take in order to get a good feel for how it is going to sound with your collection. One CD isn’t going to cut it but taking 100CDs with you is a bit silly. Try and cut it down to perhaps 2 or 3 CDs from every genre you like. This is to let you hear different things from the same genre if you think it isn’t going to represent your collection well from one CD.

Do ask them questions – ask them if they think it suits the music well and if they could show you something else in budget that may do it better.

Only change one thing at a time – say you had three pairs of speakers and three amps to demo – get a feel for the speakers first and then change the amps. Knowing the characteristics of each amp and pair of speakers before you get there will help with this.
 
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Soldato
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Not convinced by your comments on the Rotel at all, but i'll know for sure when i actually get my demo's sorted :)

Oh and i assume from what you've said that if not going for an integrated stereo amp i'd need a pre and power amp?
 
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DRZ

DRZ

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Matt said:
Not convinced by your comments on the Rotel at all, but i'll know for sure when i actually get my demo's sorted :)

I would be very interested to hear your experiences when you get round to listening :)

I went from the shop where I demo'd the Rotel to another hifi shop and got talking to the manager there - I mentioned that I had listened to the Rotel and he asked me if I found it was too bright and instantly recommended the NAD - confirmation that it isnt just me that doesnt like it :) Your experiences may well be different and hence why I would like to hear back from you :)
 
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Excellent thread dude - 5stars! Can I add a few things if you dont mind?

Cables

A topic of much discussion and argument, but ultimately I've heard the differences cables can make, and a good guideline is 5-10% of your budget. The great thing about cables is that they are a cheap upgrade, so if you blow all your cash on the main components of your system, you can buy better cables when you save a bit more :)

Try to keep your cables as short as Possible, but this matters more in interconnects than speaker cable. Keeping your interconnects as short as possible is a good idea for quality and expense!

Biwiring

Certain speakers come with 4 posts on the back of each unit. Biwiring refers to connecting a cable to each of these posts, i.e connecting the treble and bass separately. It is a controversial subject, many people recommending spending more on a single run of cable and just using the bridge that comes with the speakers to join the top and bottom posts. If this route is chosen, it is often better to replace the bridge with speaker cable.

This may explain better:
Untitled1Conventional.jpg
Untitled1Bi_Wiring.jpg


Interconnects:

QED Qunex 2 - £25
Cambridge Audio Pacific - £30
Van Den Hull "The Name" - £40

Higher End - Nordost - £70+

Speaker Cables:

QED Qudos Micro - £1.75/m
QED Silver Anniversary XT - £5.50/m

Higher End - Nordost - £90+

Amps:

I'd like to recommend The Arcam Delta 290 Integrated amp which is similar to the Arcam Alpha 9 but available for about £150.

NAD C340/350/370 - excellent used value and similar to the current NAD range .
NAD 3020 - well regarded older amp - many reviews on the net!

Bit more info on the Arcam Alpha Range
Arcam Alpha - Alpha One
Arcam Alpha 2
Arcam Alpha 3 - replaced by Arcam Alpha 5 - replaced by 5+ - replaced by Arcam Alpha 7 which was replaced my the Arcam Alpha 7R (comes with a remote and some internal changes)
Arcam Alpha 6 - replaced by 6+ - replaced by Arcam Alpha 8 - which was replaced with arcam Alpha 8R (changes & remote added)
Alpha 9&10 were improved and higher power versions of the 7/8 - both with remotes.

Speakers:
The previous Series of the B&W 600series as they are only very slightly inferior and much cheaper second hand.
 
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DRZ

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Not being the biggest believer in cables I didnt even think to put in a section on cables but as its a thread to educate, feel free to add in whatever you like :)

Perhaps if people could post their own opinions on some of the kit they have heard that is available today, especially things like CD players and stuff like that. It could become a useful resource to help people into the world of hifi!
 
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My dad wasnt the biggest believer in cables either - now he has Nordost blue heaven throughout when he heard the difference (got to borrow a demo box full of cables :) ).
They wouldnt be the first thing I'd spend my money on, but they do make a difference, be it good or bad :)
 
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After having worked in hifi, i know as do most you you that the worth thing you can do is bottle neck your system cables are just as important as every other component. You wouldn't use bell wire to connect a nice Primare / PMC system would you???
 
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woodsy2k said:
After having worked in hifi, i know as do most you you that the worth thing you can do is bottle neck your system cables are just as important as every other component. You wouldn't use bell wire to connect a nice Primare / PMC system would you???
:o
My dad was using bellwire to connect a Linn/Meridian/B&W system for about 15years...

Now he has a few grands worth of Nordost, as he heard the difference they made :)
 
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Amplification.

As well as integrated amps, there can be big improvements to be had by using separate pre/power amps. I started out with an Audiolab 8000S integrated, upgraded that with an 8000P, which improved all aspects of the amp.

Later I added a couple more 8000P's and a second hand Tag AV32R, which many people rate as better than the Audiolab 8000Q as a stereo preamp, with the bonus of being a full DolbyDigital / DTS decoder, which can also act as a high end DAC for a CD player as well.

Now im looking to get some 8000MX's (second hand english built in 'black') to finish my dream audiolab setup :).

Thats the only downside of Audiolab, you may love it so much you'll end up upgrading all the way to a magazine 'reference' system. (Im sure the same can be said for Naim systems too)
 
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damn u DRZ i now want to get a NAD C372 and some b&w 601s. (currently have an A1 and old, but good, technics speakers)

Do you mind me asking how the A1 seems to produce a whole lot more power than the A5. For example mine on 1/2 volume is the same as my mates a5 on full and it sounds no worse (for me at least)

?
 
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My dad was using bellwire to connect a Linn/Meridian/B&W system for about 15years...

Although bellwire is never going to challenge the best speakerr cables, it does have a surprising amount going for it, a single solid core conductor and low capacitance for two. It is often let down by the insulating material and the quality of copper. Many of the audio jewellery cables out there do tend to be a little high on the capacitance side (many interwoven strands of signal and ground wound together make a little capacitor between the amp outputs that rolls off high frequency), which can potentially be used to tame an overly bright system, or in worst cases make the amp unstable but that's quite rare. You can do a lot worse than build cables from good Cat5 cable, as a lot of it is single core high quality OFC with a PTFE dialectric/insulator. I like cables to be as transparent as possible, influencing the sound as little as possible. Unfortunately many of the expensive cables don't, they change the sound, which is often heard as an improvement.

my 2p's worth :)

Steve
 
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commited said:
:o
My dad was using bellwire to connect a Linn/Meridian/B&W system for about 15years...

Now he has a few grands worth of Snake Oil, as he heard the difference they made :)
There - fixed that for you.

I knew the speaker cable myth was just that, after seeing a Quad engineer using Lawnmower cable to demo the ESL 989s at a hi-fi show (he had left his 'real' speaker cable back at the ranch).

He reckoned that as long as it was well-shielded enough to reject RF and had lots and lots of copper, it would pass any double blind test.

I swapped between my posh speaker cable, and some CAT5 cable for a laugh recently. Four of my friends (and myself) reckoned it sounded *identical* in a blind test.

Bellwire is shoddy because it's usually thin and there aren't many strands of copper.

Power-cable or CAT5 is just fine though.

BTW - I can't believe the Wharfedale Diamond series don't get a mention in the great guide above. They're one of the better hi-fi bookshelf speakers around :)
 
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I'm in agreement on the cables, tbh my Supra rondo looks exactly like mains wire, I have my suspicions thats exactly what it is, with Supra cables written on the sheath.
I have had various cables in my system over the years and hanf on heart I can honestly say none of them have made any difference at all. When I switched from single to bi-wire on my old biwirable speakers I thought it sounded different, but bh its just what I told myself because I had just spent out on new cable.

Nowadays I run the cheapest good quality cables I can get, if only for better RF shielding.
 
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Good stuff but most of the stuff mentioned in this thread is mostly low-mid range. Here's a brief guide to hifi for those with deep pockets.

Here's some points from me:

  • Listen to anything before you buy it! Most dealers will let you do home demos so you can see what gear sound like in your house before you drop the ££££'s
  • If you are upgrading, target the source 1st (CDP/TT), amplification second and speakers last. Your speakers will only sound as good as what they're being fed.
  • Don't buy new. With exception of CD Players anything half decent will last for at least 10 years so buying 2nd hand is a no brainer. £2000 systems can be had for £1000 etc.
  • Don't waste your time at R*cher Sounds- go to a proper local hi-fi dealer who actually has a clue about hi-fi.
  • New equipment requires a run in period- especially speakers. Speakers can sound completely different to out of the box after a good 20-30 hours of playing

Some suggestions for those looking to listen to some great music:

=============================================
Integrated Amps & CD Player solutions (under £1500
=============================================

Cyrus- 8vx & CD8x- Neat little package that can be had for not much money. Cyrus stuff is decent bang for buck, and is easily upgradable should you wish to go that route. Lots of stuff on popular auction site.

Naim Nait 5i & CD5i- Absolutley wonderful. If you haven't heard the Naim sound yet, check it out. This combo is powerful enough to drive difficult speakers and is amazingly musical. Again check auction sites for discounts- age doesn't matter as these things are built like tanks!

Musical Fidelity A3.5 Amp/CDP- Haven't heard this but MF are fairly consistant so I'd wager that it's great for the money.

I would also check out seperates from Rega- their kit is nice across the board, with some particularly amazing budget stuff (their budget CDP and TT spring to mind).


===================================
Speakers (under £1000)
===================================

Standmount/Bookshelf:

PMC DB1+- All can say is :D These little monitors are amazing and despite being tiny, they have physics-defying amounts of bass (due the the transmission line design). Coming from a company that produces professional studio monitors has to be a good thing too!

EPOS M12.2- Cheap and chips and unbeatable for the price. Use with the matching hollow stands- they really do need them to sound their best. If on a budget, nothing really compares to these without spending at least 2 or 3 hundred more.

Naim N-Sats- Tend to depend on what gear you are partnering with. Needless to say, they sound very good with Naim kit. Some people find these harsh but they are quite dependant on the room- they don't go too well with big airy rooms.

Linn Katans- Good match for Naim and Linn gear. They tend to sound very warm and laid back- which may be perfect for the type of music you listen to. Not sure about running these with a valve amp- might be too smooth.

I will add some info on floorstanders and pre/power amps later. Perhaps DRZ might like to explain a bit better than me.

Personally I have forked out a fair bit of cash for some Naim gear which I'm getting within the next few weeks. If you sit down or lie back and just listen to music a lot I suggest forking out the few thousand it costs for a good system. The smile on your face will more than justify the price and the difference between them and a cheap system is more than the price difference would suggest. Theres a big difference between listening to music on el cheapo hi-fi and high end kit- the biggest being that you actually hear the music how it was recorded. Live music is also stunning- on a well produced live track you can place where abouts a particular musician is on a stage.

EDIT- edited to sound nicer ;)
 
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Corasik said:
Thats the only downside of Audiolab, you may love it so much you'll end up upgrading all the way to a magazine 'reference' system. (Im sure the same can be said for Naim systems too)

Lol, so true! Once you get the bug its hard to stop. Naim kit is cleverly marketed- theres many different tiers, on each one a pre/powe amp, psu, cdp etc. Some people go all the way up to reference stuff. I thought my CDP, pre and power coming to £4.5k was borderline insane, but you've got people dropping £12k on a NAC552 pre, another £10k on a NAP500 power, £15K on CD555 and then another £12k on some active DBL speakers.

The sad thing is people upgrade for the sake of upgrading and kinda forget what its all about- actually *listening* to the music.
 

DRZ

DRZ

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Noopz said:
Good stuff but most of the stuff mentioned in this thread does not say 'hi-fi' to me! Excuse the hi-fi snob in me.

Apologies for not satisfying the hi-fi snob in you but someone coming from a JVC Midi system looking for a "proper" hifi is going to be a bit lost "getting a £2000 system for £1000".

I know of several people personally that found the more balanced, flatter sound of a good hifi hard to listen to (fatiguing) compared to their one-box system because of a few psychoacoustical issues/nuances of the brain). Think of it like thinking a Fiesta was the best thing ever then going to a race-prepped Kart.

I wrote this gude for a fairly large variety of budgets but really for those entering this confusing world for the first time. To cover the whole range in detail is not only beyond my intended scope but beyond me and my experiences.

Having said all of that, your contribution is appreciated and I am sure it will help some people out. Wouldnt have said a Nait 5i was the penchant of a hifi "snob" though ;)
 
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