Spec me a clutch

Soldato
Joined
21 Jan 2010
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22,219
Thanks for replying. This Astra is a 2007 model and it already has several seized bolts which I've had to work around to do normal routine servicing jobs. TBH I think I might have bitten off more than I can chew with this job. I'm very organised, I clean and label the parts as I go, but I have no gas to put heat on seized parts and the clearance once the gearbox is separated looks really tight, like keyhole surgery.
Just Google clutch specialist and they'll quote you happy. They'll have done enough volume to have the nack.
 
Associate
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19 Dec 2002
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when i swapped my honda engine over i thought about changing the clutch with a new one but was told by the local clutch specialist they could supply and fit a new luk kit and flywheel for about 20 pounds more than i could get the parts off the bay... always worth checking.
in the end i found the clutch and flywheel as per the reciept with the car were virtually brand new so swapped them over (same clutch tool :)) .
 
Soldato
OP
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9 Dec 2009
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Might be worth paying someone to do it as once you start it's a pain if you have to get help.

My steering rack is leaking fluid so I've booked it in to get it swapped out for a recon unit at £370 all in, I could do it but can't be bothered messing about with the subframe again and/or seized bolts.

@Jonny ///M when you changed the CSC, did the kit come with a new o ring to seal between the base of the slave cylinder and the transmission? I've heard it's a common leak point.

Also, how did you go about draining the transmission? Haynes manual says to remove the differential cover, drain, replace gasket and refit, but other threads on the web say this isn't necessary?

Thanks
 
Soldato
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23 Nov 2004
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10,646
Can't remember the o ring side of things. It came with a pipe that reached outside the bell housing and joined to the hose to the pedal with a nice click. Getting a firm pedal was a pain even with using an easy bleed to help.

Drain plug is on the bottom of the gearbox and the fill plug is further up on the upper end of the side of the box. Not familiar with what box you have but mine are a big torx key to remove. Better to do it on the ground as it runs out of the lowest point due to gravity.
 
Soldato
OP
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Can't remember the o ring side of things. It came with a pipe that reached outside the bell housing and joined to the hose to the pedal with a nice click. Getting a firm pedal was a pain even with using an easy bleed to help.

Drain plug is on the bottom of the gearbox and the fill plug is further up on the upper end of the side of the box. Not familiar with what box you have but mine are a big torx key to remove. Better to do it on the ground as it runs out of the lowest point due to gravity.

Thanks, appreciated.
 
Soldato
OP
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9 Dec 2009
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5,179
Location
Bristol
Replaced the clutch over the weekend, thankfully everything is working fine and the new clutch has plenty of bite. It's the biggest car maintenance job I've taken on, so I'm quite relieved too!

There were a few hurdles to overcome:

Draining gearbox. There's no drain plug on the box for the 1.6, so the differential cover plate needs removing to drain the oil. Once the retaining bolts were removed the plate was stuck solid, it took some persuading with a soft mallet and once off, the gasket came away in bits. I used a plastic ice scraper to get off the bits in preparation for the new gasket.

Access was very tight once the gearbox was off, but with lots of manoeuvring of the gearbox and adjusting the height of the jack under the engine sump, there was just enough room to rotate the flywheel without it catching on the edge of the bell housing.

Bleeding the slave cylinder wasn't straight forward. Using a 1 man bleeding valve on the slave nipple and pumping the clutch gave me a firm pedal, but there was neither air or fluid coming out of the nipple. I bought a pressure bleeding kit from Halfords for £15 (had a £5 voucher via email) and had a stream of clear fluid in no time.

After assembly I had trouble engaging first gear and reverse, they were very stiff, but after 10 minutes of driving round the local area doing 3 point turns in cul de sacs the gears eased and now they engage perfectly. I haven't a clue what that was and have put it down to "bedding in".

So all done. Phew!
 
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