Taking long exposures

[A5H]

Hey all,
As you all probably know, I got a 350D the other day.
I've been playing around in manual mode trying to do some long exposures. They all come out plain white, obviously over exposed.
I was wondering if someone would be able to give me some basic settings to take them:
A) During the day
B) Durning the night

Also, what are the 'F's people refer to?

Sorry to be a n00b but I suppose I gotta learn.

Also, any links that explain the basics of stuff would be great

Infact, if anyone could throw up 350D taken pictures and the settings I'd be very greatful. All helps me learn.

Regards,
Ash

Edit: F is aperture makes sense!

 

[Raymond Lin]

long exposure during the day won't be more than a 1/10 seconds even at ISO 50 on a couldy day, for that you''ll need a ND filter, preferably at 8x.

you'll need to meter it so it's the right balance, use Av, and set it to F22 (or smaller - bigger number should you have it), then see what the camera suggest for the time. If it's like 1/30 then its not really long exposure, you'll need an ND filter.

At night its easier as its darker, just experience with the Aperture and Shutter Speed, with a Digital SLR you can figure it out in minutes, I had to learn it the hard way a few years ago with film !

p.s. you'll need a tripod.

 

[A5H]

Thanks a lot mate.
I didn't realise that I could do it in Av mode.
I've been trying in full manual and getting confused to say the least!
I can get to F22 with no zoom and F36 with zoom so I'll try it out once it get's dark

Thanks again!

Edit: Just been sitting it on a wall or the like with self timer so there's not much shake?

 

[Raymond Lin]

self timer on the wall is fine but its very limiting in terms of composition, you'll need a Tripod, trust me. Before this week ends, you'll start a thread asking what one to get. (Manfrotto....hint hint), you might even want a cable release too for bulb mode and remove the vibration from pressing the shutter button.


As for exposure in M mode, think of it this way.

If

ISO 100, 1/125 at f/16 gets you a perfect exposure, to expose it for longer, you'll have to close the lens up more. It is like a balancing act.

so

Same ISO at 100, but 1/60, this means you are double the exposure time, = 1 STOP.

Thus you'll have to close the lens by 1 Stop, which i think you'll have to go down to F/22.

And vice versa.

You could also have the same effect but going down to ISO 50 too for that 1 Stop.

 

[A5H]

I can only go down to iso 100 unfortunately.
I guess I'll start looking for a tripod

I used a film SLR all last year but I guess I just forgot how to do things

 

[nomore]

Hey all,
Also, what are the 'F's people refer to?

Edit: F is aperture makes sense!

F is aperture, but it helps to know how it's related.

F = Focal Ratio

For example, f/8 means that the aperture diameter is 1/8th of the focal length, e.g. the focal length is 8 times the diameter of the aperture.

 

[Belly]

If

ISO 100, 1/125 at f/16 gets you a perfect exposure, to expose it for longer, you'll have to close the lens up more. It is like a balancing act.

so

Same ISO at 100, but 1/60, this means you are double the exposure time, = 1 STOP.

Thus you'll have to close the lens by 1 Stop, which i think you'll have to go down to F/22.

Very well explained and easy to understand. Yes he will certainly benefit from a tripod and a cable release (I used to use one with a air bellows(?) for film). I also liked to use a monopod for taking close up photos of butterflies etc. The tripods by the manufacturers you quote are considered the best by many photographers and a bit expensive by most! But you get what you pay for!